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#1 |
Still drivin' a Rat Rod
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Monett Missouri
Posts: 4,925
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This thread is just in time.I have the same problem with the pipes coming loose.Nothing seems to help either.I'm changing exhaust in a few days,so I'll try hanging it from trans.
Seems the standars trucks are worse than the automatic trucks too.I did notice the problem got better when I changed motormounts.
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Rusty Member #13872 Instead of saying.....you are a discomfort in the back of my front.....one should be able to say...... you are a pain in the *a$#* 71 GMC LWB 49 Chevy 85 Chevy G20 Check out my website |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: "Under Montana skies."
Posts: 1,836
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If the only problem is the nuts loosening, try Stage8 fasteners. What is the manifold collector stud size? 3/8 bolt x 16 thread? Anyway, Stage8 sold me the nuts with their clip on piece that will hit the pipe before allowing the nut to back off the studs in my Rams Horn manifolds.
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'71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup. |
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#3 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Seattle, WA, USA
Posts: 5,817
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I remember ole Stacy on Trucks showing a product on his show one time (usually I dismiss the products as wildly out of reach) that I thought was interesting.
They were these clamps that go around your collectors and essentially vice the thing together. It still used 3 bolts, but they were contained in a housing that provided uniform compression to the collector. Seemed like with the right bolts you could tighten those things down and they'd never leak. I don't remember the vendor though...anyone remember what I'm talking about?
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'69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA. |
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#4 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: "Under Montana skies."
Posts: 1,836
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Quote:
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'71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup. |
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#5 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Seattle, WA, USA
Posts: 5,817
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Ah they may have been for headers....but I imagine if you could chase down the vendor they may have a setup for manifolds as well! It would be smart on their part if they really wanted to help a hot-rodder out.
Again, they work like a clamp. They fit over the collector junction and provide uniform force over the entire connection rather than three points. Damn, I wish I could remember the vendor's name....
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'69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA. |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: LEXINGTON,SC,USA
Posts: 208
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try these , they are what was used for copperhead i think
![]() http://amos.shop.com/amos/cc/main/ca...x-Coupler-Kits
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TIM ![]() '71 CUSTOM C-10 torch red ,350 roller GM crate,3.73 GEARS, REAR 4"DROP SPRING, FRONT 2.5" DROP SPINDLE-1.5"lower spring, FRONT=17x8(4.5bs) W/265-60-17, BACK=17x9.5 (5bs)W/285-60-17, Vintage Air Sure Fit AC------NEVER ENDING PROJECT!! |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: NW ARKANSAS
Posts: 258
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I had the same problem a few years back.I had a new exhaust installed from the manifolds back and my passenger side pipe would work loose no matter how tight I cranked on it.I finally found out the donut was slowly shifting around due to a missing piece.Pull the pipes down and make sure there is something that will hold the donut in place.My driver side manifold had something to keep it in place but the passenger didn't.
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