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#1 |
outta the car velocityboy
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Scotland
Posts: 112
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one pc window kits?
Hello there,
I am probably about to purchase some new doors from classic industries. Whilst doing this I have an option when rebuilding a) go with the stock look and replace the vent windows b) go with a one piece window kit. Anyone got any experience here? Am looking to reduce windnoise etc as am rebuilding my truck at present it's much a muchness to me which way to go although unsure if I want to change the looks.. Anyone any experiences good or bad or any pics? Cheers Lee
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: DFW TX
Posts: 769
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no pics but i have the 1pc windows and they look great. Its not and easy install but its one you can do yourself. Ive heard that the kits are on back order for months so if you want one i'd get on it quick.
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#3 |
Just Don't Stop!
![]() Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Dallas
Posts: 1,239
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yeah if you find one in stock let me know. So far everyone I've talked to is backordered. I already tried, Mothertruckers, Brothers, & ECE...
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1968 C10 build in process TT LSA/6L90e/9" |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: SW Washington
Posts: 947
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i have mine bit have yet to put it in, people say its pretty straight forward and not too hard
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72 Chevy lwb, cowl hood, shaved antenna, shaved bedrails, blazer tank, sidemarker fill, 1pc windows, flowmaster 40's, alpine deck, infinity 6x9's, infinity 4"ers, 2 jl audio 10w0's, grant wheel, keyless entry and alarm, more waiting to be done... |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Huntsville Ontario Canada
Posts: 4,052
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They are a time consuming install. Kinda involving. I think I would do it again. Kinda pricey by the time it get's there. Somthing to consider. You do have to remove the door from the cab or if you have the front clip off you can access the spot removing the door has got to be the biggiest bummer of the install if you truck is a daily driver.
Dont know what else to say. I have not driven it yet so I cant comment on the windnoise. Mario
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1968 Suburban numbers matching all original truck now equipped with 6.0/4L80 on Accuair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=625017 1967 C/20 6.0/4L80 Roofing Truck 1990 V2500 Suburban "Plow Truck" 2005 TAHOE DD |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: SW Washington
Posts: 947
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im doing mine when i finish the body work on my doors but they are a spare set not on the truck
so everyone share your tips, experiences, etc
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72 Chevy lwb, cowl hood, shaved antenna, shaved bedrails, blazer tank, sidemarker fill, 1pc windows, flowmaster 40's, alpine deck, infinity 6x9's, infinity 4"ers, 2 jl audio 10w0's, grant wheel, keyless entry and alarm, more waiting to be done... Last edited by longnlow72; 05-03-2005 at 10:32 PM. |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Huntsville Ontario Canada
Posts: 4,052
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I posted a pile of help pointers a few days ago. I am too tired to find it. Mabye I will post it in the FAQ board. And everyone who has installed a kit can put there input in also. I have alot of little things to mention. But Later...
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1968 Suburban numbers matching all original truck now equipped with 6.0/4L80 on Accuair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=625017 1967 C/20 6.0/4L80 Roofing Truck 1990 V2500 Suburban "Plow Truck" 2005 TAHOE DD |
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#8 |
Just Don't Stop!
![]() Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Dallas
Posts: 1,239
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crazy, I didn't realize you have to pull the doors! what's up with that?
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1968 C10 build in process TT LSA/6L90e/9" |
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#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: BRADENTON FLA
Posts: 3,269
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Pulling the door is not required if you have a right angle drill and short bit. We cut a drill bit in half to clear, the bit only sticks out from the chuck 1 inch. In the instructions you have to drill a hole in the front of the door by the hinge to hold the window channel in place. Also you must cut your vent window channel from your old vent window to use as the new channel thus destroying your vent windows. I have already cut channels in stock for 10.00 each if you don't want to cut yours, on some trucks the door stop needs the nose of it ground down a little to clear the glass with the door shut, this requires pulling the top hinge to gring the nose. Also check your friction pads for a tight fit so the stop is not flopping around with the door closed. We (as well as BROTHERS) should have the kits back in stock next week and if anybody is interested you should get on the list with whoever you plan to purchase from.
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Rest in Peace Ed. Thanks for all the good times. |
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#10 |
Keep On Truckin'
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Buda, Texas
Posts: 1,354
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The instructions are quite good but a few notes should be added in my opinion:
For full restorations weld up the indented area that is left on the top edge of the inside of the door where the vent support was before it was removed (I missed this on mine) For full restorations weld up the screw holes that are no longer needed (I managed to get all of these) Cut the window scraper a little long so they are a tight fit since the back end has no clip for several inches (I think I'm going to install a small screw) Be sure to test fit the corner aluminum piece before painting the truck since it WILL need grinding on the edges Plan on using a small amount of windshield urethane on the aluminum corner piece before or after final installation to keep water and wind out.
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Just Passin' Thru Some projects are like herding cats; others are like putting out fires; this one was like herding cats on fire..... Last edited by mocwon; 05-04-2005 at 05:14 PM. |
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