Stupid lowering question...

[farside847]

Sounds like the best way to lower a 71 C10 is to use new spindles
in front. How hard is this to do? Will I need any special tools, or can
everything be done with normal wrenches/sockets/etc? Will I need to
bleed the brakes or anything?

Also, when doing a 4" coil drop in the back, do the shocks need to
be replaced or can stock height ones be left in place?

thanks!

[Classic Heartbeat]

Well it is a fairly simple thing to do if you have the right tools. You will need a pickle fork to seperate the ball joints and tie rods. You can take the calipers loose without removing the brake lines though, so no bleeding nessasary. If you drop 4" in the rear you should at the very least use 4" rear drop shocks and should also install a shock relocating kit. WES www.ClassicHeartbeat.com

[ehjorten]

A pickle fork isn't entirely necessary though. You can get the ball-joints to come apart rather easily if you use a couple of heavy weight hammers or sledges. Sometimes is can be difficult to swing the sledge. If you only loosen the ball joint nuts and let the spring pressure help you it works pretty easy. MAKE SURE THE NUT IS ONLY LOOSENED, NOT REMOVED, AND NOT ONLY ENGAGED BY A COUPLE OF THREADS! I don't want you hurting yourself when the ball-joints pop-apart under spring pressure.

If you do use the pickle fork either replace the ball-joints at that time or have new rubber shields because the pickle fork will most likely destroy them.

[BraveDave]

I used 4" dropped springs out back and didn't replace the shocks. I have had no problem at all.

[68LSS1]

I agree that the shocks should be fine for a 4" drop but I would add that the shock relocation makes a big difference on the ride. I agree with the post about the ball joint seperation but I usually leave the floor jack under there for added insurance (with a gap there so the spring pressure can help pop the ball joints loose but catch the lower arm to retainthe spring).

[68speedalert]

Agree with the no fork procedure with the jack under the control arm. Don't hit on the top of the stud; hit the part that the stud goes thru. HARD. Hit the joint at 90 degrees from the direction of the stud.

You'll need a GOOD pair of wire cutters to remove the cotter pins.

Depending on your wheels, you may need to grind away the lower control arms. Numberoneson's '72 has 8-inch GM ralleys ('87 or older) and they rubbed the arms when the wheels were turned tight.

Don't get the adjustable track bar, it isn't needed on 4 inch. We didn't relocate the shocks either.

His '72 drives better than any truck these years that I've ever driven (I've driven my share). It's a short-step and has no bounce at all. I think we got the parts from GMC Pauls.