Battery mounting question - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

mocwon · 06-08-2005, 09:16 AM

Has anyone mounted their battery on the driver's side? If so, what did you use for a battery tray? I considering it since the alternator is on that side of the serpentine setup.

67ChevyRedneck · 06-08-2005, 10:18 AM

I've never seen a battery mounted on the driver's side. I don't see why you couldn't just remove the battery box and bolt it on the driver's side. Something to think about though, unless you have a pontiac or similar motor your starter is on the pass. side, right? That's a long way to route that thick starter wire.

**kwmech** · 06-08-2005, 10:33 AM

I have the factory dual battery set-up (TP2) in 2 of my trucks. The option usually came with the camper special package. You will have to run a really long batt cable to reach to your starter.

NPilot1975 · 06-08-2005, 01:09 PM

MOCWON-

I used a stainless drop-down battery box from CPP and mounted it behind the cab on the frame of the passenger's side. It works great and you don't even know it's there, plus it cleans up the engine comartment.

mocwon · 06-08-2005, 01:26 PM

Yeah, I've seen that and like the looks of it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by NPilot1975

MOCWON-

I used a stainless drop-down battery box from CPP and mounted it behind the cab on the frame of the passenger's side. It works great and you don't even know it's there, plus it cleans up the engine comartment.

Longhorn Man · 06-08-2005, 07:29 PM

if you have a chevy engine in there still, i would not do this mod. The long positive cable is a bad idea. You are better off with a long charge wire instead of a long starter wire.
however, as stated, if you have a pontiac or Caddy motor, then it will be benificial to do this, and you can get the Aux battery tray on the parts board from time to time...post a WTB (want to buy) thread. Normally they seem to go for the $50 neighborhood.

mocwon · 06-09-2005, 09:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

if you have a chevy engine in there still, i would not do this mod. The long positive cable is a bad idea. You are better off with a long charge wire instead of a long starter wire.
however, as stated, if you have a pontiac or Caddy motor, then it will be benificial to do this, and you can get the Aux battery tray on the parts board from time to time...post a WTB (want to buy) thread. Normally they seem to go for the $50 neighborhood.

It's a Chevy but I don't understand why the long positive cable is a bad idea. I've done it several times on cars when puting the battery in the trunk and this is a lot closer than that. What problems will this cause?

Edmond · 06-10-2005, 12:29 AM

My starter battery is also on the driver side and have no problems with starting the engine.
I have put in a 50mm2 cable to the starter

(Have no idea what that is in AWG, but the cable is thick, like a welding cable)

Cya,
Edmond

Americanrider · 06-10-2005, 02:21 AM

I agree with Longhorn Man. It's a little thing called resistance, which builds up heat. Think of it this way: It takes energy to push energy and expended energy equals heat. Did you ever try to push 30 amps through 18ga wire, it gets real HOT!!! The longer the cable the more drain you have on the cranking amps. If your running a top of the line battery and large cables it should be fine. Larger cables will have less resistance through them. The older/weaker the battery + smaller the cables = trouble. As far as the battery tray issue, there are some nice stainless steel ones on e-bay for about $19+shipping out of Vancouver WA. Not for the purest truck builder I understand but then you have a serp belt anyway.

mocwon · 06-10-2005, 07:09 AM

I'd run a larger cable for sure. It's pretty easy to figure the size of cable required for the amp draw. I thought there was something else here I might be missing.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Americanrider

I agree with Longhorn Man. It's a little thing called resistance, which builds up heat. Think of it this way: It takes energy to push energy and expended energy equals heat. Did you ever try to push 30 amps through 18ga wire, it gets real HOT!!! The longer the cable the more drain you have on the cranking amps. If your running a top of the line battery and large cables it should be fine. Larger cables will have less resistance through them. The older/weaker the battery + smaller the cables = trouble. As far as the battery tray issue, there are some nice stainless steel ones on e-bay for about $19+shipping out of Vancouver WA. Not for the purest truck builder I understand but then you have a serp belt anyway.

Longhorn Man · 06-10-2005, 08:51 PM

Your point about the relocated to the trunk batteries is a very good point, and I'll reduce my comment to...
Make sure you use the right guage and route the cable to where it won't get pinched.

06-08-2005, 09:16 AM	#1
mocwon Keep On Truckin' Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Buda, Texas Posts: 1,354	Battery mounting question Has anyone mounted their battery on the driver's side? If so, what did you use for a battery tray? I considering it since the alternator is on that side of the serpentine setup. __________________ Just Passin' Thru Some projects are like herding cats; others are like putting out fires; this one was like herding cats on fire.....

06-08-2005, 10:18 AM	#2
67ChevyRedneck Hittin E-Z Street on Mud Tires Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Greenville, SC Posts: 23,090	I've never seen a battery mounted on the driver's side. I don't see why you couldn't just remove the battery box and bolt it on the driver's side. Something to think about though, unless you have a pontiac or similar motor your starter is on the pass. side, right? That's a long way to route that thick starter wire. __________________ Jesse James 1967 C10 SWB Stepside: 350/700R4/3.73 1965 Ford Mustang: 289/T5-5spd/3.25 Trac-Loc 1968 Pontiac Firebird: Project Fire Chicken! 2015 Silverado Double Cab 5.3L Z71 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L 5spd 2020 Chevrolet Equinox Premium 2.0L Turbo 2011 Mustang V6 ~ Wife's ride American Born, Country by the Grace of God 1967 CST Shop Truck Rebuild! My 1967 C-10 Build Thread My Vintage Air A/C Install Project "On a Dime" Trying my hand at Home Renovation! 1965 Mustang Modifications!

06-08-2005, 01:09 PM	#4
NPilot1975 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Plymouth, MA Posts: 891	MOCWON- I used a stainless drop-down battery box from CPP and mounted it behind the cab on the frame of the passenger's side. It works great and you don't even know it's there, plus it cleans up the engine comartment. __________________ 1972 Blazer body...need to get a thread started for the rest of the story

06-10-2005, 12:29 AM	#8
Edmond Registered User Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: The Netherlands Posts: 1,063	My starter battery is also on the driver side and have no problems with starting the engine. I have put in a 50mm2 cable to the starter (Have no idea what that is in AWG, but the cable is thick, like a welding cable) Cya, Edmond __________________ 1971 Chevy C/20 Longhorn, 350/TH400, Edelbrock Performer, IMPCO 425 LPG Carb 1974 Chevy Camaro Z28 (Original) ------------------------- The Netherlands

06-10-2005, 02:21 AM	#9
Americanrider Registered User Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: NW, WA. Posts: 1,421	I agree with Longhorn Man. It's a little thing called resistance, which builds up heat. Think of it this way: It takes energy to push energy and expended energy equals heat. Did you ever try to push 30 amps through 18ga wire, it gets real HOT!!! The longer the cable the more drain you have on the cranking amps. If your running a top of the line battery and large cables it should be fine. Larger cables will have less resistance through them. The older/weaker the battery + smaller the cables = trouble. As far as the battery tray issue, there are some nice stainless steel ones on e-bay for about $19+shipping out of Vancouver WA. Not for the purest truck builder I understand but then you have a serp belt anyway. Last edited by Americanrider; 06-10-2005 at 02:23 AM.

06-08-2005, 10:33 AM	#3
kwmech Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Colfax-California Posts: 8,713	I have the factory dual battery set-up (TP2) in 2 of my trucks. The option usually came with the camper special package. You will have to run a really long batt cable to reach to your starter.

06-08-2005, 07:29 PM	#6
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	if you have a chevy engine in there still, i would not do this mod. The long positive cable is a bad idea. You are better off with a long charge wire instead of a long starter wire. however, as stated, if you have a pontiac or Caddy motor, then it will be benificial to do this, and you can get the Aux battery tray on the parts board from time to time...post a WTB (want to buy) thread. Normally they seem to go for the $50 neighborhood.

06-10-2005, 08:51 PM	#11
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	Your point about the relocated to the trunk batteries is a very good point, and I'll reduce my comment to... Make sure you use the right guage and route the cable to where it won't get pinched.

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.