Damn Ele. Window

[86 GMG]

I HAVE AN 84 LWB WITH ELE. WIDOWS LAST FRI. WENT FISHING AND THE DRIVER WINDOW JUST STOPPED WORKING ABOUT FOUR INCES UP AND I HAVE NEVER MESSED WITH ELE. WINDOWS ON THESE TRUCKS. WHAT I NEED IS:
WHAT TO LOOK FOR AS A COMMON PROBLEM
HOW DO I REMOVE MOTOR / REGULATOR
WHAT IS GOING $$$ AT JUNK YARD OR DEALER I HATE BUYING USE CRAP AND THEN REPLACING IT AGAIN LATER
I GUESS THE GOOD THING IS ITS SUMMER AND RAIN IS NOT IN THE FORCAST FOR AWHILE SURE IS GONA BE HOT

[75stepside]

check out my FAQ's page: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php3?t=148263

(it may help, i dunnno!)


73-87 Door Internal How To

I spent my weekend assembling my doors. Took me about 6 hours for both doors, and I realized that if I had paid more attention when I took them apart, or would have read up on it, I probably would have taken 1/3 the time. So, here goes for a lil "how to" on door assembly.

Assuming that you just have an empty door skin in front of you...

1. Install the door latch assembly in the rear of the door using the three phillips screws that go in from the rear. Make sure that your door lock rod goes up through the round hole in the top of the door and make sure the rod is connected for the exterior handle.

2. Install the vent window assembly in the front of the door, making sure the seal wraps around the front edge of both the inside and outside of the door. Put in the three phillips screws to secure the vent window frame.

3. Next, put in the felt seal that goes on the vent window frame/track and up the top edge of the door. Put it in until you reach the push tab on the felt at the rear edge of the top of the door. Let the remaining seal dangle.

4. Install the regulator next. Try to have it set so that the arms are at about a 0 degree angle. On the regulator, do not put in the two bolts, just screw the two 1/4" nuts on hand tight. If using power windows, do not worry about the harness just yet - leave it out of the door until last.

5. Next, grab your window. Before putting it near the door, get a little WD40, or the equivalent and lube the channel on the bottom. Facing the exterior of the door, slide the glass down at a slight angle with the rear lifted slightly and work it into the door just so that the glass is inside the door. Now, the tricky part: with one person guiding the glass, and have one person reach in the door and grab the regulator assembly. Take the 1/4" nuts loose and move the regulator toward the front of the door while the other person slides the rear of the glass onto the regulator arm. At the same moment, slide the regulator back and get the front of the glass onto the regulator arm. Before you set the regulator back into position, line the remaining arm up with the channel where it connects to the inside of the door, while at the same time, line the glass up in the front channel. Now, bolt the regulator down to the door.

6. The felt seal that you left hanging, run it in the rear channel of the door.

7. Wind the window up slowly, clear to the top. If using power windows, just put the plug on the motor and leave most of the harness out of the door.

8. With the window up, install the rear window track and put the remainder of the seal in the track.

9. If using power windows, unplug the window motor and route the harness through the cab and into the door. I loosened my window regulator and ran the wires behind the regulator in the channel that exists at the bottom of the door panel. Connect the plugs to the power door lock motor and pwr window motor. Be certain to make sure that all connections are away from the internal moving components.

10. Test your work! Slowly wind the window down, looking inside the door to make sure that nothing binds or disconnects.

*Disclaimer*
I WROTE THIS FOR YOUR PERSONAL USE ONLY. I AM NOT A PROFESSIONAL MECHANIC AND TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANYTHING THAT MAY HAPPEN TO YOUR TRUCK. THIS IS MY PERSONNAL OPINION OF HOW TO ASSEMBLE YOUR DOORS. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!

[Russell]

check the switch before you pull the whole door apart. They are a common failing point...

[bodydropped]

when we put my truck together we put the vent in last but my dad did mine since he use to work at the gm dealership

[86 GMG]

Thanks For The Help Maybe I Will Try It This Weekend

[Slonaker]

There are instructions with photos for changing out the motor in the "Garage" section on www.73-87.com.

Slonaker

[Roberty]

Chevy trucks with power windows on the pre '88 models are notorious about the motor on the drivers side going out after all these years. The drivers side gets used the most so it figures. Auto Zone and Advanced Auto Parts among others offers a new lifetime warrantied power window motor for about $45. This beats buying used, worn out motors from the junk yard if your planning on keeping it. Just be sure to check the regulator while it's out to make sure the teeth are still good. Fairly straightforward fix for anyone who's halfway mechanically inclined. Just pull the door panel off and the rest is fairly easy to figure out. There are two bolts and two nuts that need to be taken out of the regulator to get it out. Just be a little careful with the window to keep from breaking it after taking the regulator out. If you need more info just PM me.
Robert

[mike505]

I just swapped the one in my drivers door with a new one from Advanced Auto Parts a few weeks ago. I used the above link for reference and it was easy. Fastest of the 4 windows in my truck now.

Mike

[JustOneTruck]

Could I ask what would be helpfull for a slow up window .My passenger side is really slow going up and down . Just thought I would ask to see what I could do to make it work better with out changing up for a new motor. 1985 GMC lwb No air but like to use the windows.
Thanks.

[8t5Silverado]

Originally Posted by JustOneTruck

Could I ask what would be helpfull for a slow up window .My passenger side is really slow going up and down . Just thought I would ask to see what I could do to make it work better with out changing up for a new motor. 1985 GMC lwb No air but like to use the windows.
Thanks.

Shoot the felt guides at the window's edges with silicone spray, works great. You will have to do this every once in a while, especially after it rains.

[MylilBowTie]

Anyone know what it would be if both motors stopped working and the fuse on the fuse box was replaced? Still need to use a test light to see whats going on.

What all would I need to check for getting power to the window motors?

[Roberty]

Originally Posted by MylilBowTie

Anyone know what it would be if both motors stopped working and the fuse on the fuse box was replaced? Still need to use a test light to see whats going on.

What all would I need to check for getting power to the window motors?

Disconnect the wiring harness to the power window motor and see if your getting power when you try to operate each window. Make sure you have a good ground on the test light. One side will light up when you turn the switch in the down position and the other side should show power in the up position.