Is a Blazer Tank supposed to sit ABOVE the top of the frame??

[Deuce]

I bought a blazer tank for Frank and recently installed it to do my 383TPI conversion but...................the top of the tank sit about 2" ABOVE the top of the frame where the cross sills are supposed to lay
The truck is a 67 SWB. Are the frames different??(67 as opposed to 68+??) I,ve had to custom build a 2 piece cross sill and eliminate the bolts in the bed strips that go over the tank because they would touch the tank
Anybody have something like this happen??

[crews]

Yes the tank is supposed to be a little above the frame...Mine sits about 2" above the frame as well. I just did the tank kit on my LWB and had the same problem...I think because we are placing the tank farther forward than they are mounted in a Blazer is why we are having the issues. I just trimmed my crossmember to clear and have no problems now...well at least not with the tank hitting the bed!!

[72MARIO]

Well that covered it well. I have the same problem I took the tank bak because I did not like the Idea of cutting my bed cross sill.

Must have somthing to do with it being a "Blazer Tank"

[Deuce]

I didn't cut my cross sill. I fabbed up 2 pieces that go from the frame outwards. Pretty easy fix.

[tomatocity]

Originally Posted by Deuce

I didn't cut my cross sill. I fabbed up 2 pieces that go from the frame outwards. Pretty easy fix.

Anyone have pics of their installation? Were these metal or poly tanks? Where did you purchase the conversions? Yes I am getting ready to convert my 70 and I don't like unfriendly surprises.

[Classic Heartbeat]

The Blazer tanks require that you cut about an 1 1/2" notch out of the second from the rear tall cross sill on short beds, and the 3rd from the rear tall cross sill on long beds in order for the tanks to fit up against the bottom of the fame rails like they were designed to do. You just notch the area that is located between the frame rails and not beond there. This is true for both the steel and polly tanks, because the dementions of the tanks are the same, just made from different materials. The blazers were not that way because they have the short cross sill above the tank. WES www.ClassicHeartbeat.com

[crews]

Originally Posted by tomatocity

Anyone have pics of their installation? Were these metal or poly tanks? Where did you purchase the conversions? Yes I am getting ready to convert my 70 and I don't like unfriendly surprises.

I have some pics I can post later tonight...it really wasn't all that big of a deal. Mine is a poly tank kit that I bought used from teeitup....

Don't let this minor detail keep you from converting to a blazer tank. The safety factor far out weighs the small amount of fab work required.

[matthufham]

definately get those pics up, because i don't want to mess up my crossmember. i have the poly tank, and i'm running a door on the inner (driver side) bed side, behind the crossmember and need to know how to run the hose to the tank.

[Deuce]

I'll see if Darren aka classicchevy will come and take some more pics as I'm almost complete now.

[Deuce]

Originally Posted by tomatocity

I don't like unfriendly surprises.

You'll have many, but if you can do a little fabrication you'll be happy you did the conversion.

[Hart_Rod]

Do you have to notch crossmember on a suburban?

Rob

[Russell]

Suburban should already have a tank under the rails?

[Hart_Rod]

It does, but I think the blazer tank is larger.

Rob

[Deuce]

Blazer tank is taller on the top and it will sit about 2" above the frame rails.

[Russell]

Actually the opposite, at least in 73+ blazers / burbs. My blazer tank was something like 32 gallons, while my burb tank is significantly larger, at nearly 45 gallons.

[Hart_Rod]

What is blazer tank capacity? Suburban is around 16.

Rob

[crews]

Here are a few pics of my installation as well as the modified crossmember...I am not completely finished with it yet as I have not completed the filler neck.

I think a blazer tank is 21 gal. but I may be mistaken. I have not filled mine up yet.

[Deuce]

Does the filler neck not run inline with the crossmember in that location?? I moved my tank back for the filler to clear the cross sill then "tweeked" the filler tube to point straight up and I'm using a filler cap off a boat cut into the bedwood.

[tomatocity]

[QUOTE=crews]Here are a few pics of my installation as well as the modified crossmember...I am not completely finished with it yet as I have not completed the filler neck.

I think a blazer tank is 21 gal. but I may be mistaken. I have not filled mine up yet.

I recently saw a Tech Article on the installation of a poly Blazer tank and they did not modify the crossmember. I will check my notes at home to see where it is. Maybe a recent magazine atricle.

What I want to know is how many inches is the bottom of the tank below the lower side of the frame rail.

Everyone: Poly or Metal? Which is your choice?

[Deuce]

I chose metal. Steel straps rubbing on poly makes me nervous.

[crews]

I have seen other swaps that do not involve the mods I have had to do as well. This is a LWB truck- that may have something to do with what problems I have encountered. This is also a factory leaf spring truck. I have the rear spring mounts to worry about, where a coil spring truck will not have that issue.


My tank hangs down 7 1/2" below the frame.

I chose poly because I was having problems with rust in my fuel. I don't want another steel tank to corrode and start rusting on me again.

As for the filler neck- Yes it runs right next to the crossmember, but I don't have room to move my tank back. I was NOT taking out the main crossmember for the frame as that is the point where the spring hangers mount. I want to be able to use this as a truck when I am done. I am still trying to figure out how I am going to do the fuel filler door, so I will keep you posted when I get it done.

[BubbaGreen]

here is a pic of ECE EarlyClassicEnterprises gas tank....side fill...with fuel injection manifold.