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07-04-2005, 12:09 AM | #26 |
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One more thing on the 383HT it uses a 3.80 stroke so crank replacement will cost more than a 400 crank which is 3.75 stroke
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72 Custom Deluxe, Viper red with a 383 HT |
07-04-2005, 12:31 AM | #27 |
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Location: "Under Montana skies."
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Of the two, definitely the BBC. But those BBC crate engines come with cams made more for street cruisers than those who want high torque numbers at low rpms. Just take it easy on the 12-bolt. If the 12-bolt has never been touched since new, consider having the bearings professionally replaced to give you a tight R&P.
As to your "limitations," I know you could rebuild an engine because I can. Nuff said, there. If you truly don't want to venture into rebuilding, consider looking into having a local machine shop do a rebuild for you. If you source the parts cheap they should be able to beat either crate engine price and you can exercise personal preference on component choices. Some machine shops offer warranties on their engines which is easier to address locally. Even were I not rebuilding my own engines, I would go local because I really like gapless rings that no off-the-shelf crate engines come with, AFAIK. I like Hart Rob's offer, too. EFI big block power!!
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'71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup. |
07-04-2005, 08:19 AM | #28 |
Never enough time!!
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: sw Wisconsin
Posts: 601
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My son rebuilt his 400 sbc for around $2400, including machine work and new aluminum Edelbrock heads and intake. He had the shop hot tank it, bore it, put in cam bearings, and mount the pistons on the rods and check the rods. He done the rest himself, new cam, oil pan, head and intake bolts, aluminum water pump, and chrome valve covers. He already had a good carb, headers, and distributor. Just an idea of what you might be able to save, $$ wise if you want to try to build one yourself. If your runnning a tired stock engine now, I'm sure you will be happy with either engine power wise. I love big block torque, but small block parts are just easier to find and cheaper to buy....IMO
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07-04-2005, 10:09 AM | #29 |
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I must disagree with the post by "v8crazy" regarding the strokes used for a 383 engine.
There is more than one (1) way to build a 383, however, the most popular is to turn down the mains on a stock 400 crank to the diameter of a standard 350 block. Stock 400 rods can also be used with a length of 5.565" and stock 350 pistons can then be used. The stock length 350 rods (5.70") can be used if special pistons are purchased specifically made for this application. Either way, The most difficult part of all of this is that you must "clearance" the block for the crank and rods. I have done this and it was somewhat time consuming. You must, of course, use a harmonic balancer and flywheel for a 400 because of the external balancing. I still have an entire rotating assembly removed from the motor I built about ten (10) years ago. Last edited by jec; 07-04-2005 at 10:10 AM. |
07-04-2005, 10:24 AM | #30 |
PROJECT 7DEUCE
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Location: GRANTS PASS OR
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I went with a crate 270 hore 350 from G.M. for my blazer and I love it great mileage and very cheap to work on... I also went with a 454 b.b. in my project truck that I am sure will not be a daily driver I personally would go with a b.b. for towing and s.b for driving ... Just my 2 cents worth..
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GO BIG GREEN GO DUCKS MEMBER #6377 72 k-5 daily driver 6'' lift 35'' 350-350-205 slowly getting rust free. Project "7DEUCE" check out my build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=267665 Tim Powell..R.I.P EastSideLowlife..... R.I.P.. |
07-04-2005, 11:27 AM | #31 | |
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Quote:
GM builds the HT383's w/4.00" bore & a 3.80" stroke: 4.00 x 4.00 x 3.80 x .7854 x 8 = 382 Typical 383 conversions from 350's have a .030 over-bore w/a 3.75" stroke: 4.03 x 4.03 x 3.75 x .7854 x 8 = 382.6 If you're replacing the crank on the GM HT383 there's more than likely enough wear on parts requiring a .030 over-bore thus you can use a typical 3.75" stroke crank for a 1pc seal sbc. & you'll still have a '383' w/o more expense.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. Last edited by SCOTI; 07-04-2005 at 11:31 AM. |
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07-04-2005, 11:36 AM | #32 | ||||
Union Electrician
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Louisville, Ky.
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Quote:
Check out www.gmpartsdirect.com The site is cool it will let you compare the engines on the same paige and you can better decide that way. Looks like you could save a couple hudred bucks or my get it shipped for the same price as Summit. As for my choice of engines, I would say go with the bb and for $600 more than the 454 you can get the 502 with 450 hp and 550 ft.lbs. of torque. Just my .02, Randy
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Last edited by byrd; 07-04-2005 at 11:41 AM. |
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07-05-2005, 12:20 PM | #33 |
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If your gonna drive this thing every day, Id stick with the 307 myself...
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1971 Chevy C10 Shortbed Stepside, 307v8 3-on-the-tree |
07-05-2005, 09:44 PM | #34 |
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The whole point of the 383 being it will drop into any truck that had a small block,plug in and go. It WILL blow the doors off any factory big block I ssould have said. But then again if cubic inches are your pleasure go 502! It does for the big block what the 383 does for the small block.
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07-13-2005, 03:18 AM | #35 |
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Do you want to keep your truck original or date correct? I went through the decision making process with my 1970 stepside. I have a built up 350 now with only 20,000 miles on it (cam, roller rockers, custom intake, headers, edelbrock 1406) and wanted to go to a big block. After much soul searching I decided to try to stay as close as possible to at least having an original engine (an engine the truck came with) I searched hard and found a complete 1970 402 engine and am building it from ground up with performance parts. It even had the original Qjet carb that I'm having rebuilt. To me it will make the completed project even better knowing it is somewhat original. Another advantage to building an engine is you can spend the money over time, when you get a couple hundred dollars, buy a part. In the process you learn alot about how they work and people on the board are willing to help you out. Just something else to think about.
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07-13-2005, 07:13 AM | #36 |
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I would check on the HT502. 338 HP/515 ft/lbs torque. It's all bottom end torque too. Check it out at sdpc2000.com
I'm seriously considering this engine for my driver. Hot Rod Magazine had a Pump Gas Drags section with a guy that put one in a 78? shortfleet. It ran 10's!
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07-13-2005, 08:18 AM | #37 |
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Location: Terrell, TX
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After personally buying one of the crates and seeing/riding in a few others, I remain unimpressed to say the least. I had my 350 built locally for $1100 and I'd put it up against the HO 330 hp Vortec (which I bought for an MCSS a few years back at the cost of $2895) anytime.
Now to answer the displacement question....if you're not driving it daily and you want sheer power, get the BB!!
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07-13-2005, 10:20 AM | #38 |
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I'd get a ZZ4 and build it up.
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07-13-2005, 12:04 PM | #39 |
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In your Burb I think it'd be sweet to build a 396-402 EFI and an put a overdrive trans behind it.
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1971 GMC K1500 SWB Fleetside, 4" skyjacker softride and, 14 Bolt FF, HD Dana 44 4.10's 1970 K5 TBI conversion lifted etc SOLD 1968 C20 camper truck SOLD “To ban guns because criminals use them is to tell the innocent and law-abiding that their rights and liberties depend not on their own conduct, but on the conduct of the guilty and the lawless.” Jeff Snyder |
07-13-2005, 03:17 PM | #40 |
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Location: Des Moines, Iowa sometimes Butler, PA
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dude go to www.classicheatbeat.com and in their 67-72 page there is a 396 on there for 900 bucks. its a good price and i love the hell outta my 396 its a good engine
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07-13-2005, 07:23 PM | #41 |
Old School, New Style
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Monroeville, Ohio
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Well you guys will probably strangle me for saying this but I do have a '76 454 truck motor (complete) sitting in my garage. I pulled it from the original truck for use later. It has maybe 105K on it. To save cash maybe I should just swap this in for now.
What should I do or look for when trying to get this running? It has been sitting for approx. 3 years. Aaron
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The Good: - 72 GMC Jimmy 4x4 - 307 cid / 350 th - 70 Chevy Suburban 1/2T 2wd - 454 cid /400 th - 96 Chevy Impala SS - mainly stock - 98 Chevy Tahoe LT 4x4 - all stock The Bad: - 86 Chevy Suburban 1/2T 4x4 - winter beater The Ugly: - 72 Chevy Suburban 1/2T 2wd - parts truck |
07-13-2005, 09:42 PM | #42 |
its all about the +6 inches
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Location: Hilliard Ohio
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Before making up your mind, you need to look at the prices of the simple stupd items that you'll be needing...esp if you want it to look like it was there when new. You'll want to cry.
Hope that old 454 has EVERYTHING on it....all accessories and pullies and brackets, motor mounts, they'll even rape you on something as trivial as a harmonic ballancer bolt. |
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