Big time front end wobble

[don t. - 72gmc]

When I left for work, got it up to 30-35 mph, front driver tire started wobbling, felt like it was gonna fall off. Got out, grabbed top of tire and pulled/pushed. I felt it come out, maybe 1/16 but definatly felt a "stop". Drove another mile or two before it started again. Drove home at 25-30 mph w/o problems.

About 1000 miles ago, I did replace front rotors/bearings. I think its loose but ??? When I did the front brakes, I checked the front end. I know all tie rods should be replaced, not bad I just don't like the way they feel. Everything else "looked" ok but???
Beside loose rotors, wheel out of balance, what else??

I've got about 2 hours of garage clean-up before I even start on this (gotta love it....NOT). Figured I'd ask the experts for things to look at/watch out for.

TIA.....don t. .....

[Fred T]

Best thing to do is to jack it up with te lower a-frame sitting on a jackstand. Rock the wheel top to bottom and side to side looking to see what's loose. Lot's of things it could be, sounds like it might be loose wheel bearings.

[Southpa]

If you aren't really sure about what you are looking at when inspecting your front end components, the best solution is to take it in to a front end specialist and get the real scoop. If you can find an honest opinion, that is. You might even go as far as asking for an alignment. A reputable mechanic WILL NOT do an alignment on bad components and he should tell you what needs to be replaced before doing the job. Of course, they will try to sell you on them doing the replacement work.

[COBALT]

It's not hard to diagnose your front-end (on the truck that is). You can do what Fred T suggested, which will simulate load on the wheel like if it were sitting on the street. Check the wheel unloaded as well (hanging loose). Grab the top and bottom of the wheel and push on the top while pulling on the bottom. Now pull on the top while pushing on the bottom. Any play. Wiggle it back and forth a few times.

Do the same holding the left side and right side of the wheel. This may be a bit harder depending on what steering you have. If there's play in the steering box you'll find it here too. There should be absolutely NO play in your wheel top to bottom, and side to side (besides steering). It's easiest to see steering slop on the driver's side for obvious reasons. You can also do this to check your tie rods, idler, and pitman arm. Have a buddy do the wheel wiggle thing while you inspect the front'end components. IF there's any degree of separation or slop where the tie rods, idler, pitman, joints, etc. connect then you need to replace those parts.

Put your hand on the back side of the wheel and try to push it forward. Try to the opposite direction by putting your hand on the front and pushing the wheel backward. Any play? Again, that could be front-end components, or your control arms are worn. Inspect everything.

Now spin the wheels. You should not hear any grinding, or gritty sounds. It should be nice and smooth, and the wheel should free-spin. If you have drums like I do in the front sometimes the drum shoes will lightly rub the drums as the wheel spins. Don't worry about that you're just checking the bearings. Any catching, wobbling, or that pasty sound you sometimes hear like grease being smushed around is bad.

I did all this to find out my front-end was crapping out on me. Most of this stuff is just using your common sense.

If it turns out to be bearings how did you torque the hub nuts when you put the hubs on? You should have torqued that nut to 10-12 ft-lbs to seat the bearings on the races in the hub, and then backed the nut off to the nearest slot to put the pin in. Your bearings might not have seated properly.

Did you adequately pack the bearings? You have to stuff those things with grease until it comes out the tops of the bearings and you can't get any more in. You also have to dump a bunch around the races. Even the spindle needs some...

[Longhorn Man]

Originally posted by new69owner
You should have torqued that nut to 10-12 ft-lbs to seat the bearings on the races in the hub, and then backed the nut off to the nearest slot to put the pin in. Your bearings might not have seated properly.

That's what i'm thinking...loose hub.
However, by torquing to 10 - 12 foot pounds will net set the rear seal. You need to torque id town to where the wheel turns, but with alot of resistance, then loosen it, and THEN tighten it 10 - 12 ft/lb. That will get the proper preload. Even if you never removed the rear seal, this will help seat the bearings how they are supposed to be.
Ask me how I know.
(hint, it involves my hub turning blue and purple from my bearings disinigrating after a short speed spurt to 100+ in the middle of no where, and my truck staying there for 28 days after I finally found a way home almost 200 miles away)

[don t. - 72gmc]

As suspected, front wheel bearings were loose, both sides. Inspected bearings, spindle, races, all look great. Went to tightem up and remembered, I don't have a socket big enough for hub nut. So here I sit til morning.
Did some of the tests that new69 suggested. Tie rods are still sloppy, lower pass. ball joint looks like its going too. A little steering play as well. I've done ball joints before, don't like that. Maybe southpa has the best idea, let someone else do it.
Where's that money tree when you need it?????
Thanks a bunch guys....don t.....

[Southpa]

I usually just tighten the nut with an adjustable wrench. Tighten until the bearings are snug (ie. no wobbles) and the wheel spins nicely and then back it off to the nearest slot for the cotter pin.