08-22-2005, 12:58 PM | #1 |
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Header Bolt Hell
There must be some way to keep the header bolts in the heads. I have to torque them every 20 or so miles. I'm almost ready to flash weld them to the header plate and when i need to replace the gaskets, I'll just grind off the weld. Does anyone have any ideas?
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08-22-2005, 12:59 PM | #2 |
Tightwad
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They sell some locks you can buy in summit!!!
Eric |
08-22-2005, 01:10 PM | #3 |
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They're great, but a PITA to install!
it's an allen headed bolt that is sloted for a cam that fits up against your header tube. |
08-22-2005, 01:30 PM | #4 |
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( Looking around... ) I've been known to use a spot of locktight on those things ...
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08-22-2005, 01:37 PM | #5 |
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Cut the header flanges and use mainfold gaskets. (about 7 bucks).
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08-22-2005, 01:38 PM | #6 |
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I had a 440HP vette that shook everything loose. I put stage 8 bolts in the headers and they never came loose again. Current Summit catalog p. 58. Part # STG-8911A for the 1" bolts. THESE WORK!
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08-22-2005, 01:41 PM | #7 |
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Cutting the flanges works.................And doesnt cost 30 bucks.
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08-22-2005, 02:02 PM | #8 |
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I had bolts come loose a lot a long time ago. I found out I was overtightening them and warping the flange. I now use copper gaskets and right torque and I havn't had to retorque them in two years
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08-22-2005, 02:07 PM | #9 |
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http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php3?t=167671
Here is a recent thread about header bolts and it has a wide variety of solutions.
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08-22-2005, 02:22 PM | #10 | |
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Quote:
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08-22-2005, 02:38 PM | #11 |
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Why do you think they make them in a solid flange?
Not trying to be funny, just seriously curious. |
08-22-2005, 02:46 PM | #12 |
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Cheaper to make. Welding the tubes onto the flanges warps the flange.
Oh and have you noticed that its basically the small block headers the people are having probems with? Last edited by Mudder; 08-22-2005 at 02:48 PM. |
08-22-2005, 03:02 PM | #13 |
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Copper gaskets and breslin locking bolts......never mess with them again
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08-22-2005, 03:17 PM | #14 |
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Subscribing to follow the thread.....
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08-22-2005, 03:44 PM | #15 |
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Stage "8" Locking Header Bolts. They May Cost Around $30 But If You Have $400 Or $500 In A Set Of Good Headers, You May Not Be To Receptive To Going The Hacksaw Rought. John
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08-22-2005, 04:34 PM | #16 |
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The headers are a cheap set that came with the truck. I need to spend my remaining penny collection on a tail gate for it so I'm intrigued with cutting the flange. Could someone explain it to me?
Thanks Richard
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08-22-2005, 05:03 PM | #17 |
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Mudder makes two cuts per header in the long spans between the tubes. I'm thinking cutting them relieves the stress of expansion and contraction which will cause the flange to work the bolts loose. Just my theory.
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08-22-2005, 05:10 PM | #18 | |
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Quote:
Look at Mudder67 posts. You will see the flange cut. The end result would be four cuts. This is a very old procedure. I have seen it done at a reacetrack before. Some company used to make them without a solid flange and I am guessing that was a nightmare for production. I am guessing if you took your headers off and laid a straight edge on the head-side of the flange you would see they are not level. If you bolt these to something that does not move (a head) the metal has to go somewhere. If the flanges are cut there is more wiggle room. BTW, it looks like Mudder67 cut a pair of expensive ceramic coated block huggers, so it must work for him.
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08-22-2005, 07:57 PM | #19 |
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The other item to consider, are you supporting the rear of your headers with something other than the exhaust pipe that it is bolted too?
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08-22-2005, 11:07 PM | #20 |
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Drill a hole through the heads of the bolts and safety wire them together in pairs.
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08-22-2005, 11:31 PM | #21 |
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There might be some difficulty tie-wiring the back header bolts while they are in the truck.
Good thought on the tailpipe being supported before the X or H pipe or muffler. Have we confused you enough Just do what is best for you and what you can afford.
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08-23-2005, 03:32 AM | #22 |
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I like the safety wire idea. It is cheap but time consuming.
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08-23-2005, 04:28 AM | #23 |
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I have been cutting the flanges for about 15 years now. I run super comps and I had them coated after they were cut. I am also using stainless header bolts which can't be tightened that tight. The heads seem to round off really easy. I'm thinking this is the third set fo headers I have cut and I have had no problems with leaking gaskets or bolts working loose. I have no other brackets holding the exhaust other than the straps that hold the mufflers on. I tried one kind of locking bolts and they where a pain. Heres where I cut them and a pic of what they look like on my truck.
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08-23-2005, 06:17 AM | #24 |
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install lock washers on each bolt they may need to be thin walled washers to clear the header tubes, rarely ever have a gasket start leaking since ive installed lock washers you will still probably have to retighten them once.
im sure loctite on the threads along with lock washers should keep them from loosening. |
08-25-2005, 03:34 PM | #25 |
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Thanks everyone for the great ideas. Didn't know there are so many options to try. Does it matter how wide the cut is? Also, do the flanges need any special tolerance between them?
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