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08-25-2005, 11:04 AM
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#1 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 141
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seamless roof
has anyone tried or been successful removing the seam accross the roof of the 69 do you have to weld the seam first or what is the best procedure thanks dave
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08-25-2005, 11:19 AM
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#2 |
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More Cowbell....
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Puckett, MS
Posts: 3,569
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You are talking about across the back, above the glass, right??
I would think that you could weld it and then smooth it out pretty nice. I'd hate to just fill it with bondo and have it chip out later on.
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There once was a member from Puckett.....Who ( fill in the blank blank blank ) bucket Last edited by Putter; 08-25-2005 at 11:20 AM. |
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08-25-2005, 12:33 PM
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#3 |
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Where's my beer?
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Glen Allen, VA
Posts: 1,772
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you might try looking up the Copperhead project, I know he did that on that truck, but I don't know how he went about it.
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70 C10, shortstep, .30 over 250,Hurst shifted 3 spd parts hauler. Holley 390, Clifford Intake, Header, ported cylinder head, unknown bigger cam. 79 Corvette L82, 4 spd, black, red interior, headers, flowmasters, and unkown bigger cam. '03 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.0 4x4 daily driver. 165K miles, and runs great '08 Tahoe LTZ 4x4 155K |
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08-25-2005, 01:08 PM
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#4 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: jefferson city, mo
Posts: 1,364
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weld it up, lots of little tacks.
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08-25-2005, 01:33 PM
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#5 | |
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Outlandish Trends - FL
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Orlando
Posts: 1,396
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Quote:
 alternate areas. Tack a spot in then switch to the other side of the cab. It's just like welding any other piece of sheetmetal. You don't want to get the metal too hot and warp it.
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-Bret 67 short-fleet sold! |
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08-25-2005, 02:23 PM
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#6 |
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fugedaboutit
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Gresham, OR
Posts: 832
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Seems like a big risk to take for very little show (welding). I almost shaved mine by accident, just running a DA over it.. taking the old paint off. I bet you could get it pretty damn smooth with a flap wheel on your angle grinder though.
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Currently truckless 
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08-25-2005, 03:27 PM
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#7 |
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Questionable
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 13,376
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Use a solder body filler like the old school metalworkers did. Eastwood has developed some pretty amazing technology with regard to lead free body fillers.
Here is all the information you could ever need to know about body fillers: http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...8&iSubCat=1430 Use the dropdown menu for more information about how to apply it and whatnot. Use the search feature at the Eastwood site to shop for product and body filler application kits for sale. The website is very, very user friendly. Obviously, bondo will warp, bow or crack when you lay it into a seam. Solder body fillers typically do not have that problem and they're easier to flow into the crack and whatnot. You can visit the Eastwood forums for help with application if you should need it. It will cost you a few extra bucks, but do it right - clean the area and prep it well, then fill. Too much warpage risk with welding.
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If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM. Last edited by shifty; 08-25-2005 at 03:29 PM. |
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