how much damage is acceptable?

[72 longhorn BB]

Hey there guys,
I do not want to sound too critical, but I just ordered some replacement panels for my 72 longhorn and when I got them, they were all packed together with loose foam bag packs, and there were ccratches on all of them due to rubbing diring shipping.

My question is, has this happened to you and is this a normal amount of damage, considering the size of the parts (inner fender wells and lower door, cab corners) and the packaging?

I can show you pictures if you want, but I was thinking that the paintted black finish was ready to install and show, but now they will have to repaint them to make them look as clean as I was hoping the truck to look when I was finished with it.

What are your thoughts?

Thanks in advance

[Orange70chevy]

Scratches and a few small dings is ok. The parts need to be painted anyways because that is just primer and exposed to the weather over time they will start to rust.

[Rokcrln]

The black paint is only a cheap primer. They need to be lightly sanded, re-primed and painted. Have you seen cars running around with repo fenders on them and thay are all resty? This is because they bolted them on and left them as is. It the panels are dented that is one thing but if they are just scratched that is nothing to worry about. You mentioned lower door and cab corners, were you going to use sticky tape to put them on? LOL Anyother way is going to require that you sand off all paint/primer around the weld area just to fit them correctly not to mention the bondo you will need to complete the replacement. So like I said if they are dented or really damaged they call the companey and get them replaced. If only scratched then head out to the garage and start fitting those parts and get that truck back on the road.

Kevin

[Randy70C-10]

Most venders include in their adds that replacement body panels will require some body work. It's a good day when you receive a panel without any scratches or dings. Most of these parts are shipped from over seas, that's a long way!

[72 longhorn BB]

Yeah, It makes sense now that you mentioned it. I have never done metal fab before so it is not so straight forward as it is for the pro's.

Thanks

[special-K]

It would be hard to match the EDP on the rest of the truck

[lowrider79]

On all of our restorations we sand off all of the black "primer" and then shoot on a coat of epoxy.

[72 longhorn BB]

Does Epoxy paint pose any application problems for the pant gun?

Isn't that basically colored glue?

What about doing the priming phase with POR15?, then painting it?

[lowrider79]

Originally Posted by 72 longhorn BB

Does Epoxy paint pose any application problems for the pant gun?

Isn't that basically colored glue?

What about doing the priming phase with POR15?, then painting it?

No epoxy paint is not a problem for the paint gun. I use a DevilBliss gun. I would definetily NOT use Por 15 under my finished paint. Most body shops would tell you the same thing. I used Por 15 on my frame, on the underside of my cab, on the inside of my fender wells, floor of the cab ect. But the areas that are seen constantly I did not and would not use it. I top coated the Por 15 on these areas because if you read all the info Por 15 piuts out about their product it does not hold up in certain conditions. I paid a little over $300 a gallon for my paint and then another $100 a gallon for clearcoat. I didn't want to have issues with the wrong primers and prep under the paint. My cousin owns a body shop and has been in business for over 25 years. He along with two other body shop owners I know said the same thing. "Don't put that stuff under your finished product." If your worried about stopping rust then you need to get all of the rust off of the metal before you paint your vehicle. Rust is rust and it will come back at some time. I have $5000 invested in my paint and I was not going to take a chance that magically the rust would never be back. Just my nickles worth.

[lowrider79]

On another note see what your paint manufacturer recomends and follow their guidelines. I would bet most of them will say to use epoxy on bare metal.

Hope your truck turns out just the way you want it.

[72 longhorn BB]

Yeah, thanks, while I can chase electrons and turn wrenches pretty well, the metal fab and paint finishing aspects of the job keep me pretty stupified.

What the H**l, It makes sense, since I hate finishing drywall and painting it too.

If I had the right kind of prep and paint area, it might be a different story. As it stands, if I am going to get the result I want, I am goint to have to pay $$$ to have someone literally strip the black s**t off my new parts, then paint it up with epoxy black

[Blazer1970]

Don't even think about using POR-15. PAINT WILL NOT STICK TO THAT STUFF.

[72CSTC5]

72 Longhorn BB, I am a certified Silver level PPG painter. I am not suggesting you use PPG products but I can give you some good advice if you want. The black that is on the parts you bought is EDP primer to prevent the part in rusting on part shelves and in your garage while you wait installment. You merely just have to sand those parts with 320 dry sandpaper and apply sealer and paint. In your case however where you are going to weld in parts, only grind the metal off in those areas. In the event let's say that you strip all of the paint off of your door that has some surface rust in those spots. I would apply naval jelly and scrub with steel wool until all surface rust is gone. Wash and rinse clean and dry asap! You may have flash rust from the water air and humidity. Sand that off with a red scrotch brite. Then you need to metal prep the metal with phosphate and water mix. The metal will look like you have a film on it almost like "bluing" a gun. Rough up the metal again for adhesion with lets say 180 grit sandpaper and blow off residue clean. Then apply a "metal etch primer" such as PPG 1971 that has "chromates" in the primer. That is the key word. Check to see what type of metal etch primer that you use has chromates in the primer. If you use this brand of product you only want to apply a very thin coat. You should be able to read a business card through the primer for example. You do not have to worry about covering all of the metal. While it is still "wet" you need to apply 2 to 3 good coats of epoxy primer over that. This is the best current method to date that companies have discovered. Do your bodywork over the epoxy primer if you can. This will give you the best corrosion protection possible. This is of course a perfect scenario, most of the time you break through the edges of the primer while doing bodywork. Just primer over your entire repaired area again. Good luck, if you have any questions you can PM me direct.