09-20-2005, 07:38 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Gypsum Kansas 67448
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Holy Crap
man im P1SSED.i just freakin started to hear a noise in my engine,well come to find out it 's a freakin rod,man it just stinks,you work so long on something,think you got everything just right,and then POW,right up your a$$.i just had to vent,im sure some of you gyus have had the same problems,this just stinks.
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21 2500hd duramax 58 apache HILLJOB GRAPHIX--for all your graphic needs My build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=542497 LS ENGINE SWAP INFORMATION THREAD http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=377348 4l60 to an NP205 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...43#post3697343 Last edited by hilljob26; 09-20-2005 at 10:29 PM. |
09-20-2005, 07:43 PM | #2 |
Justascratch
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: OKC, OK
Posts: 160
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Mike,
I don't know any girls named Holly (Holly crap). I had a Holley carb once. You need to move to Oklahoma where it is warmer. It's the cold weather up there in KS is messing with your stuff. Blame it on your neighbor and make him help yank that rascal. I hope this helps, a little humor during your time of trouble. Scratch in OK
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09-20-2005, 07:54 PM | #3 | |||
Union Electrician
Join Date: Feb 2005
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Bites the dong for sure, sorry to hear your troubles. I wish I was closer to lend a helping hand. Randy
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09-20-2005, 07:54 PM | #4 |
Saving 1 truck at a time!
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Kent, WA
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Are you sure it is a rod? I have mis-diagnosed a bad rod and found out it was piston slap and timing. I even had a professional Ford dealership mechanic and tech college professor swear it was a rod! I had a 283 put a wrist pin into the side of the cylinder and wear out the rod bearing in the process but it never made a noise...just smoked like a diesel locomotive. Take your time a do a full disgnosis of the noise...it may turn out to be something less significant.
I even had a cracked bell housing everyone said was a rod!!!!
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'68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 400/TH400 '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 468/TH400w/buckets '72 C20 Halfhorn (Longhorn w/o cab and front clip) '69 Flxible Cruiser (look up ugly in the dictionary) Last edited by stllookn; 09-20-2005 at 07:56 PM. |
09-20-2005, 08:00 PM | #5 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
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I feel your pain.
100 miles after getting the longhorn on the road the engine blew....second day and something like 98 miles. Totall bummer. |
09-20-2005, 08:52 PM | #6 |
20' Daredevil (Ret)
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Do you have an automatic tranny? Another thing that might be mistaken for a rod knocking is a cracked flexplate...
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09-20-2005, 09:06 PM | #7 | |
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09-20-2005, 09:08 PM | #8 |
laying low
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Searcy, Ark. USA
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Loose torque converter bolts will make a sound similar to a rod knock. I've also seen a dented oil pan make a knocking sound when the rod came around and bumped it.
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09-20-2005, 10:29 PM | #9 |
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its not a bad sound yet,just a little noise and a slight vibration,but i had 12 other guys look at it,and 1 swears on it,but one is going to dig deeper into it for me,thank god,im just tired of working on it,i just want to drive it,and i meant holy crap
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09-20-2005, 10:31 PM | #10 |
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did you rebuild the engine, maybe some parts aren't over/undersized a tenth of an inch from the freshly bored and decked block.
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09-20-2005, 10:45 PM | #11 |
Chopper/Painter
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Medford, Or.
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Also, Check your muffler bearing as it might be full up of crap and need to be rinsed with a bucket of propwash while hanging from a skyhook.
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09-20-2005, 11:43 PM | #12 |
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You mentioned vibration and someone else mentioned flex-plate. Put 2+2 together and I would guess a rod should not cause vibration. And when you say rod, do you mean rod bearing?? I have changed these out before by simply dropping the pan. I don't believe a fresh rebuild , broken in with care, should have a bearing prob...... I just don't buy it!
Keep investigating and go buy a stethy csope to listen in and you will isolate a whole bunch of things and rule out a whol;e bunch more. |
09-20-2005, 11:59 PM | #13 |
Saving 1 truck at a time!
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Disconnect one plug wire at a time to see if it goes away. This can isolate the cylinder if it is something mechanical with the assembly. Careful with this though since it worked on my piston slap since I only had it in one cylinder.
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'68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 400/TH400 '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 468/TH400w/buckets '72 C20 Halfhorn (Longhorn w/o cab and front clip) '69 Flxible Cruiser (look up ugly in the dictionary) |
09-21-2005, 12:01 AM | #14 |
Having issues
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I had rod knock, but the firing order was wrong and a wire had burned thru on the header. GO figure. The thing ran too. Ran decent enough to make you think firing order wasnt an issue. It would backfire tho if you would try to revv engine, turned chrome headers blue real fast.
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09-21-2005, 09:01 AM | #15 |
Senior Member
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Noise
Use a stethscope as wolfthing2000 said, try and zero in on the area of the block the noise is coming from. I once had the spring inside the fuel pump fall out of place, this left no tension on the fuel pump push rod, so it was slapping around and making a lower end knok that sounded like a bearing.
That was an easy fix ( new fuel pump ) Good luck Gary
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09-21-2005, 09:58 AM | #16 |
Java Mechanic
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A loose rod doesn't (generaly .. ) cause vibration. It also makes a sound that is closer to a tick (not that different than the sound of detonation except for being very, very regular) than a "knock."
A tweaked pushrod will make one heck of a clatter as will a broken valve (and this one WILL cause a good deal of vibration.) You can figure out if a valve let go real easily by just removing the valve cover and giving things a good going over. A tweaked pushrod might be found this way also (though they can hide from this sort of inspection.)
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09-21-2005, 09:11 PM | #17 |
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well,i recently put in all new valve seals,push rods and lifters,because my old push rods were so plugged you couldn't even blow the air out,the engine had 55000 miles on it since the guy that i got it from rebuilt it(supposedly),but i really trust this guy,so i dont really doubt it,im just not sure,it just scares me right now,i noticed,that if i listen to my exhaust,the drivers side has a steady rumble,as the passenger side has a not so steady rumble,i am checking all options before i start tearing anything apart.im not the smartest when it comes to this,but i am fairly knoledgasble,it is just one of those thinmgs that you dont know,because you have never faced this problem yet,after this i will have learned about this and it will probably go into file 13 like the rest of my knowledge,but any help or ideas are much appreciated.thanx...mike
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09-22-2005, 03:54 PM | #18 |
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I totally understand, My tranny blew up 3000 miles after I finished my truck. At least you dont have to pick up pieces off the road and get towed home.
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09-22-2005, 04:12 PM | #19 |
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If it is a rod your not alone... alot of us on this board have blown engines up or had serious damage. I found the best thing to do is take a step back collect your thoughts and think of it as just another hoop to go through or its just a little more time parts & some machining involved. Just take your time... Best of luck Doug
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09-22-2005, 10:25 PM | #20 |
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well,we are pulling it sunday,should have the parts to the machine shop mondasy,and all back together by friday,only about 500 w/ parts and maschine work,going to go ahead and have the block decked,and the crank checked,but then back on the road
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21 2500hd duramax 58 apache HILLJOB GRAPHIX--for all your graphic needs My build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=542497 LS ENGINE SWAP INFORMATION THREAD http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=377348 4l60 to an NP205 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...43#post3697343 |
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