09-23-2005, 10:56 AM | #1 |
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C notch
Well im finally to cutting the frame for the c notch and I cant quite make up my mind on which power tool to use? I am anxious please help.
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09-23-2005, 11:11 AM | #2 |
STILL PLAYS WITH TRUX
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When i lowered my Tahoe i C notch the frame and i used a combo of a sawsall and a high speed air cut off disc. and a drill to drill the corners.
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09-23-2005, 11:12 AM | #3 |
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I used a sawzall,and cleaned it up with an angle grinder. If you use C-notches that wrap the frame (over the top) you need to trim the channel under the bed. Scribe where you are going to cut, and drill a few holes along the line. Also, support the frame (in front and behind the cut) when making the cut. Be sure frame is supported level. Do one side at a time for added support. When you layout the location, measure from center of notch (centerline @ axle). Take your time, wear safety glasses and gloves. Good luck.
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09-23-2005, 11:40 AM | #4 |
AttentionDeficitDisorder
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sawzall, cut off wheel and 4.5" grinder for clean up.
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09-23-2005, 02:59 PM | #5 |
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that is the direction i planned to go but was unsure if this was the best thanx
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09-23-2005, 03:07 PM | #6 |
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Do you have any pics of it as is?? Would love to see it.
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09-23-2005, 05:00 PM | #7 |
Happy to be here
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A plasma cutter works nice if you have one. If not, mark the corners and drill a 3/8" hole. Cut from the bottom of ther frame up to the hole then cut across from one hole to the next. The hole creates a radious at the stress point so your frame won't crack. If you make your cuts meet each other they can create a stress point that might eventually crack...
BTW- Welcome to the forum. You have any pics of your project?
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09-24-2005, 01:43 PM | #8 |
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Thats it I'm going to Best Buy to get a digi.
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09-25-2005, 08:52 AM | #9 |
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Like already said, it is extremely important to drill holes at the corners. And also to support the frame both in front and behind where you are going to cut. The last thing you need is to have a perfectly cut notch and then a bent frame afterward. Sawzall will probably be your best tool to use if you don't have a plasma cutter.
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09-27-2005, 11:49 PM | #10 |
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I have read many threads about C-notching and this one has explained it better than any of the others. Pictures would be great but now I feel confident about doing it myself. Things to remember:
* sharp 3/8" drill bit What C-notch are you using? Is the C-notch a bolt-on or weld-on? Thanks.
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09-27-2005, 11:58 PM | #11 | |
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09-29-2005, 12:55 AM | #12 | |
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Quote:
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Got bored, sold everthing. Got bored, looking for a 1960-66 C-10. Want to build my last truck. |
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10-08-2005, 12:32 AM | #13 |
AttentionDeficitDisorder
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use a cobalt bit and a good penetrating oil for drilling or else your bit wont survive very long
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10-08-2005, 02:10 AM | #14 |
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ok, so i have been told many different things, and i need this to be set straigt.
does a C-notch weaken your frame? if so, would it still be able to handle a load?
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10-08-2005, 10:47 AM | #15 |
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Can't wait for the pictures.
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Rob - https://www.instagram.com/hart_rod_c10 As Iron Sharpens Iron, So One Man Sharpens Another. Proverbs 27:17 FOR SALE: DBW pedal bracket - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=651123 FOR SALE: Hood Brackets http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=679945 1987 Silverado SWB - 34.5K original miles http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=801834 1969 SuperBurb - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=200387 1968 Farm truck - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=358692 1968 SWB - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=551258 1948 Chevy - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=122164&page=3 |
10-08-2005, 01:05 PM | #16 | |
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Quote:
If you plan on working the truck a little harder you can weld the 'bolt-in' c-notch for added safety, or, even stronger would be to weld & then box the back side of the frame-rail while welding in the c-notch. I did the bolt-on c-notch method but when I started towing my 18ft car hauler I went ahead & welded it in. I haven't had any issues w/mine & I tend to use my truck as a truck.
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10-08-2005, 01:11 PM | #17 |
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ok, well my truck wont be really used as a truck, and it should be fine. of course i only plan to notch it if i have problems with axle to frame contact
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10-08-2005, 09:02 PM | #18 | |
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Quote:
Good advice. You should also try to drill slowly with as much pressure as you can apply without shaking. It may also help if you start with a smaller bit, like 1/8", to make a pilot hole. It will help keep the 3/8" bit from walking while you're trying to drill. |
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10-09-2005, 01:54 PM | #19 |
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Does anybody make a larger notch for our trucks?? Like an already made, weld in 8"-10" notch??
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10-09-2005, 02:37 PM | #20 |
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Do you have to relocate fuel/brake line when you install CPP C-notch?
R
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Rob - https://www.instagram.com/hart_rod_c10 As Iron Sharpens Iron, So One Man Sharpens Another. Proverbs 27:17 FOR SALE: DBW pedal bracket - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=651123 FOR SALE: Hood Brackets http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=679945 1987 Silverado SWB - 34.5K original miles http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=801834 1969 SuperBurb - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=200387 1968 Farm truck - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=358692 1968 SWB - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=551258 1948 Chevy - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=122164&page=3 |
10-09-2005, 05:51 PM | #21 | |
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Quote:
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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10-09-2005, 06:10 PM | #22 |
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I haven't looked at it yet, but I know they both run down the passenger side. It definitely needs the c-notch, since the rear won't get as low as the front.
Rob
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Rob - https://www.instagram.com/hart_rod_c10 As Iron Sharpens Iron, So One Man Sharpens Another. Proverbs 27:17 FOR SALE: DBW pedal bracket - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=651123 FOR SALE: Hood Brackets http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=679945 1987 Silverado SWB - 34.5K original miles http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=801834 1969 SuperBurb - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=200387 1968 Farm truck - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=358692 1968 SWB - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=551258 1948 Chevy - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=122164&page=3 Last edited by Hart_Rod; 10-09-2005 at 06:13 PM. |
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