Advice Needed

[Ole Blue 68]

Ok, here's the problem. I bought my '68 a few months back from what I thought was a reputable seller. One of the reasons I bought it was because it was advertised that it had a rebuilt 283. Upon inspection, it was ultra clean and ran great so I had every reason to believe that this was the case. Now less than 1,000 miles later, the dang thing is springing leaks on me: valve covers (fixed), oil pan and/or rear main seal, and now I noticed a small amount coming from one of the cylinder heads.

So here's where I need advice:

1) Is it possible that this guy really didn't bone me and that something is causing these leaks?

2) How hard would it be to fix these myself? I do oil changes/brakes and stuff like that but never anything this difficult.

[Joe67]

Hard to tell. Sometimes those things come from noplace.

Oil pan gasket involves lifting the engine a little bit. Rear main means removing it (I believe).

Where is oil leaking from the cylinder head?

[truckdude239]

umm sounds like i'd just put another motor in it

[lamar]

Sometimes when a truck sits for long periods of time with out being used every once in a while the seals, gaskets, etc...... can harden and leak. Once the truck is used more often leaks start and come from every where, the more it's used the more leaks show up. I guess the harden gaskets get hard because they dry out and when you start using the truck, the heat and oil circulating cause the leaks. That is what happened to mine when I first got it . Maybe the guy is being honest and the truck just sat for a while. Lamar

[71swb4x4]

I would pull the motor and replace all of the seals at once. You should be able to get it done for less than $100, and you should be able to handle all of the work yourself. The only real "special" tools you would need is a torque wrench, and maybe a hoist and engine stand. Here we can rent hoists and engine stands for really cheap. You should be able to get the job done in a weekend. If everything goes "right" you could get it done in a day.

[Ole Blue 68]

Thanks for the feedback fellas.

Joe, the leak is coming from the front of the driver's side cylinder head, around one of the bolts. I tried tightening that bolt and one on each side of it but it's still leaking last I checked. It's only a trickle but I know that still not good news.

I'd love to put another (and bigger) engine in it but that costs $$. I was thinking that the best thing to do would be to pull the engine and redo all the gaskets. The only problem is I've never pulled one and I don't own a hoist or a stand. How cheap can is cheap for a rental?

[sneakysnake]

Sounds like you have developed some "blow by" I bet if you run a compression check you'll have a low cylinder or two.

[71swb4x4]

Here we can rent a hoist and stand for about $30 for the weekend. I have a couple friends with everything so I haven't had to rent one for a while. It is fairly easy to pull an engine. If you have a 2wd you can pull the engine and tranny in one piece pretty easily. Otherwise it really isn't that tough to unbolt the tranny and leave it. If it's an auto I like to leave the tranny, if it's a manual I like to pull it as one unit. If it is an auto unbolt the flew plate from the torque converter, if you pull the torque converter you will ahve tranny fluid everywhere.

[truckster]

I'd definitely run a compression test and also check the PCV valve.

[chevybill]

the intake bolts may need some thread sealer to stop that particular leak.
i think that is pretty common on small block chevy intake bolts.

[Ole Blue 68]

Thanks for the advice. $30 ain't bad for a weekend considering what they go for if you buy them. I'll run a compression test and ChevyBill, that's a good idea with the bolts, I'll give that a shot.

[GMC AMI]

Some of these older trucks need a breather to vent crankcase pressure.If
too much pressure builds up it will push oil out of about all the places you mentioned. Are you running the PVC valve?

[hgs_notes]

The old 283's have a block vent at the back, behind the distributer. I have a 283 and have never been able to stop all the leaks on the oil pan. If it's not from the back, it leaks from under the timing chain cover. The have a new style oil pan gasket now that is in one piece all the way around. I think I saw it in Hot Rod recently. Use thread sealer on the intake bolts and good luck with the rest.

HG

[Ole Blue 68]

Mike Files- I currently don't have a PVC valve (it's my next project), just a hole in the valve cover but I checked early on to make sure it hadn't been closed off.

HG- Thanks for the heads up on the gasket. I've seen a few places online selling the one piece gasket. I definitely think it's a good investment.

[GMC AMI]

I always buy the one piece from Summit. As long as the vent is clear than you do not have the crankcase build up I mentioned. It would mostly leak from the oil pan gasket and rear main seal if that were the case. Just a hint at a possible cause. Most likely the dealer or PO did a clean up on the motor and did not run too much after. My buddy from Puerto Rico said dudes there used to pull the motors, clean and repaint and reinstall. Then they said it was rebuilt. Hope that is not the case here.

[Ole Blue 68]

Well the guy I bought it off of told me it was rebuilt by a shop in Dallas but the more I get to know the engine, the more I think that's a load of BS.