|
12-29-2005, 02:48 PM
|
#1 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Virginia Beach, Va, USA
Posts: 1,676
|
Door Rubbers
Anyone had a problem with the back of the door not closing after you install the rubbers? When I have them installed fat side out, the rear of the door will not be flush. I even removed the striker plate with the same results. It looks like the rubber gasket is too fat on the front side near the hinge area. When I install them narrow side out, the doors are flush but you can see daylight all the way around the door. I measured the thickness side to side and it is approximately an inch thick. My other set in the other truck are only 7/8". Could I have bought the rubber weatherstrip in the wrong thickness? Thanks, Kerry
__________________
1969 Chevelle 1990 IROC Z Convertible 2002 Silverado LT |
|
|
|
12-29-2005, 02:52 PM
|
#2 |
|
More Cowbell....
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Puckett, MS
Posts: 3,569
|
Re: Door Rubbers
Not that it matters, but did you get the glue-on ones (like original) or the S-10 style that more-or-less press on?
I just put my S-10 ones on yesterday and have the same problem. Basically have to use both hands and one leg to close the door from the outside. There is NO WAY it will close from the inside without ripping the handle off. I am just hoping it will compress like the originals did.
__________________
There once was a member from Puckett.....Who ( fill in the blank blank blank ) bucket Last edited by Putter; 12-29-2005 at 02:53 PM. |
|
|
|
|
12-29-2005, 02:56 PM
|
#3 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Virginia Beach, Va, USA
Posts: 1,676
|
Re: Door Rubbers
These are supposed to be the original type but the thickness is wider than what I have on my other truck. Kerry
__________________
1969 Chevelle 1990 IROC Z Convertible 2002 Silverado LT |
|
|
|
|
12-29-2005, 03:00 PM
|
#4 |
|
More Cowbell....
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Puckett, MS
Posts: 3,569
|
Re: Door Rubbers
On my original cab with original seals, at the front, those thing were compressed down to about 1/8" thick. I say just slam it and hope for the best. They have got to compress sooner or later.
Did you get those from a reputable vendor?
__________________
There once was a member from Puckett.....Who ( fill in the blank blank blank ) bucket |
|
|
|
|
12-29-2005, 03:04 PM
|
#5 |
|
67-72 Addict!
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: The TAX State!
Posts: 7,857
|
Re: Door Rubbers
Original style or S-10 style will do this for several months. It's normal even though it's a pain. Another trick that helps is to poke holes around the rubber with an awl every 4". I got that from Bill Athey!.
__________________
Jim 1970 C/10 Fleetside w/Ghost Flames Lowered 4.5" front and 4" rear (Raked) 355/350 Turbo w/shift kit 10" Redneck Performance Verter w/2500 stall Hooker Super Comps part#2808-1 Performer RPM Air-Gap 12 Bolt w/3:73 gears- Eaton Posi Comp Cams XE262 with 1.6 Crane Energizers, Road Demon 625 and Brodix IK 180 heads Last edited by 70c10; 12-29-2005 at 03:07 PM. |
|
|
|
|
12-29-2005, 03:07 PM
|
#6 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Virginia Beach, Va, USA
Posts: 1,676
|
Re: Door Rubbers
The problem is the back of the doors sticks out even though the door is against the striker plate in the back. They shut just sitck out and it is bothersome. Kerry
__________________
1969 Chevelle 1990 IROC Z Convertible 2002 Silverado LT |
|
|
|
|
12-29-2005, 03:09 PM
|
#7 |
|
67-72 Addict!
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: The TAX State!
Posts: 7,857
|
Re: Door Rubbers
I hear ya Kerry. I would let it go until spring before adjusting the striker.
__________________
Jim 1970 C/10 Fleetside w/Ghost Flames Lowered 4.5" front and 4" rear (Raked) 355/350 Turbo w/shift kit 10" Redneck Performance Verter w/2500 stall Hooker Super Comps part#2808-1 Performer RPM Air-Gap 12 Bolt w/3:73 gears- Eaton Posi Comp Cams XE262 with 1.6 Crane Energizers, Road Demon 625 and Brodix IK 180 heads |
|
|
|
 |
| Bookmarks |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
Linear Mode
