Any help? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

red71cheyenne · 09-17-2002, 08:52 PM

I pretty much have the Blazer torn down to parade rest. I'm finding more rust than I thought I would have, but still not too bad. My question is, I want to take the entire truck apart, fix the rusted areas and reassemble. I mean take it apart piece by piece. Cut out the spot welds and start over from scratch. Is this going to kill me? I've started on the cab and so far so good. I'll be dremeling the welds around the windshield and firewall area. Does anyone have any suggestions for making it a little easier? Is there an easier way to go about it? Besides the obvious and getting a different truck that is already done

Thanks for any help, Jeff.

red71cheyenne · 09-17-2002, 11:02 PM

anybody?

Lippyp · 09-18-2002, 06:21 AM

Don't know about the overall restoration but go and buy a proper spot-weld removing drill bit, they last much longer than a standard drill and do a real neat job of removing spot welds. Any good tool supplier should have them.

Southpa · 09-18-2002, 10:37 AM

It helps to have some degree of fabricating/welding skill, as well as the proper tools and equipment. I frequently use wire wheels on my drill to clean surface rust. For that in depth rot there is no substitute for cutting it out with a die grinding wheel. Cut out the nasty stuff, clean it up and make/buy replacement patches/panels. A Mig welder (wire feed w/ shielding gas) is essential for replacing any metal. You have to assess whether or not fixing a rotten panel is easier and less expensive than replacing it entirely with one in better condition.

I don't know about those those touchy areas in the cab like around the windshield. It takes a lot of finesse to replace metal in there and lots of people have opted to replace the entire cab if that area is too far gone.

If you have any doubtful areas take pictures and post them on this board. I'm sure there are lots of folks here who can provide you with feedback and solutions to help you out. I also have lots of pics in my website below showing some areas I've worked on. My methods may be madness to some but still effective,

.

red71cheyenne · 09-18-2002, 01:56 PM

Thanks for the help guys. I am going to try and take it all apart and repair all the bad spots like I said. I have a mig welder, its not gas shielded and I'm not a very good welder. But I don't think that will be a problem, as practice makes perfect. How does the spot welder drill thing work? As far as I could tell there are spot welds about every 2 inches. Do you just fill all that back in later? Thanks for all the help, Jeff.

Southpa · 09-18-2002, 02:16 PM

Spot weld cutting bit has raised cutting edge on either side and will cut a disc out of the first layer of steel, leaving the weld behind on the second layer. I heard they are brittle so be careful. The hard part is actually locating the spot welds. I managed just fine with a regular drill bit. Just drill in part way and the seam will come apart easily with a little prying. Then you fill it back in afterwards if you are putting that panel back in. If you are replacing the panel with a new one it might help to predrill holes along the edge to be welded then weld it to the mating surface. End result is similar to a spot weld.

red71cheyenne · 09-18-2002, 05:29 PM

Thanks Southpa. I'll try drilling them out before I use the dremel. I'll see which one works better. Jeff

71402BB · 09-18-2002, 06:33 PM

this is where you can find the spot weld cutter (http://www.eastwoodco.com/cgi-bin/sg...02091818324098) go under welding, then to spotwelding and accesories, thats where you will find the stop weld cutter! Good luck with your project! -Brian

09-17-2002, 08:52 PM	#1
red71cheyenne Back in the sticks Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Fordland, MO Posts: 3,188	Any help? I pretty much have the Blazer torn down to parade rest. I'm finding more rust than I thought I would have, but still not too bad. My question is, I want to take the entire truck apart, fix the rusted areas and reassemble. I mean take it apart piece by piece. Cut out the spot welds and start over from scratch. Is this going to kill me? I've started on the cab and so far so good. I'll be dremeling the welds around the windshield and firewall area. Does anyone have any suggestions for making it a little easier? Is there an easier way to go about it? Besides the obvious and getting a different truck that is already done Thanks for any help, Jeff. __________________ 1971 Cheyenne C-10 w/700R4 and Tuned Port Injection 1969 K5 Blazer w/Tuned Port 2010 2SS/RS Flaming Orange Camaro 2011 K1500 Suburban 2014 K1500 Pickup 2008 Nissan Altima? The wifes' hoopty

09-17-2002, 11:02 PM	#2
red71cheyenne Back in the sticks Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Fordland, MO Posts: 3,188	anybody? __________________ 1971 Cheyenne C-10 w/700R4 and Tuned Port Injection 1969 K5 Blazer w/Tuned Port 2010 2SS/RS Flaming Orange Camaro 2011 K1500 Suburban 2014 K1500 Pickup 2008 Nissan Altima? The wifes' hoopty

09-18-2002, 06:21 AM	#3
Lippyp English Chevy Owner Join Date: May 2002 Location: Shropshire, UK/ Lot, France Posts: 1,848	Don't know about the overall restoration but go and buy a proper spot-weld removing drill bit, they last much longer than a standard drill and do a real neat job of removing spot welds. Any good tool supplier should have them. __________________ Phil '67 C10 long fleet. 350/TH350, 4 bbl Carter, K&N, Dual exhaust, loads of stuff coming soon 2001 S10 Blazer Daily Driver, bone stock 4 door 4x4 with manual transmission

09-18-2002, 10:37 AM	#4
Southpa Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Victoria, BC, Canada Posts: 2,410	It helps to have some degree of fabricating/welding skill, as well as the proper tools and equipment. I frequently use wire wheels on my drill to clean surface rust. For that in depth rot there is no substitute for cutting it out with a die grinding wheel. Cut out the nasty stuff, clean it up and make/buy replacement patches/panels. A Mig welder (wire feed w/ shielding gas) is essential for replacing any metal. You have to assess whether or not fixing a rotten panel is easier and less expensive than replacing it entirely with one in better condition. I don't know about those those touchy areas in the cab like around the windshield. It takes a lot of finesse to replace metal in there and lots of people have opted to replace the entire cab if that area is too far gone. If you have any doubtful areas take pictures and post them on this board. I'm sure there are lots of folks here who can provide you with feedback and solutions to help you out. I also have lots of pics in my website below showing some areas I've worked on. My methods may be madness to some but still effective, . __________________ 1970 GMC 1500 Custom Original 350/TH350 Victoria, BC, Canada You can wish in one hand and crap in the other. See which one gets filled first.

09-18-2002, 01:56 PM	#5
red71cheyenne Back in the sticks Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Fordland, MO Posts: 3,188	Thanks for the help guys. I am going to try and take it all apart and repair all the bad spots like I said. I have a mig welder, its not gas shielded and I'm not a very good welder. But I don't think that will be a problem, as practice makes perfect. How does the spot welder drill thing work? As far as I could tell there are spot welds about every 2 inches. Do you just fill all that back in later? Thanks for all the help, Jeff. __________________ 1971 Cheyenne C-10 w/700R4 and Tuned Port Injection 1969 K5 Blazer w/Tuned Port 2010 2SS/RS Flaming Orange Camaro 2011 K1500 Suburban 2014 K1500 Pickup 2008 Nissan Altima? The wifes' hoopty

09-18-2002, 02:16 PM	#6
Southpa Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Victoria, BC, Canada Posts: 2,410	Spot weld cutting bit has raised cutting edge on either side and will cut a disc out of the first layer of steel, leaving the weld behind on the second layer. I heard they are brittle so be careful. The hard part is actually locating the spot welds. I managed just fine with a regular drill bit. Just drill in part way and the seam will come apart easily with a little prying. Then you fill it back in afterwards if you are putting that panel back in. If you are replacing the panel with a new one it might help to predrill holes along the edge to be welded then weld it to the mating surface. End result is similar to a spot weld. __________________ 1970 GMC 1500 Custom Original 350/TH350 Victoria, BC, Canada You can wish in one hand and crap in the other. See which one gets filled first. Last edited by Southpa; 09-18-2002 at 02:20 PM.

09-18-2002, 05:29 PM	#7
red71cheyenne Back in the sticks Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Fordland, MO Posts: 3,188	Thanks Southpa. I'll try drilling them out before I use the dremel. I'll see which one works better. Jeff __________________ 1971 Cheyenne C-10 w/700R4 and Tuned Port Injection 1969 K5 Blazer w/Tuned Port 2010 2SS/RS Flaming Orange Camaro 2011 K1500 Suburban 2014 K1500 Pickup 2008 Nissan Altima? The wifes' hoopty

09-18-2002, 06:33 PM	#8
71402BB now thats a true COON DOG Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Franconia, NH Posts: 1,977	this is where you can find the spot weld cutter (http://www.eastwoodco.com/cgi-bin/sg...02091818324098) go under welding, then to spotwelding and accesories, thats where you will find the stop weld cutter! Good luck with your project! -Brian __________________ current project 67 402BB stout th350 3.08's with a locker. Plan on tubs 18.5's out back! (thanks Burnsman!) 71 SWB Stepside, was a 250, now is a 402 Big Block with 4 speed and 3.73's ( was crushed by a tree, bed sold, motor pulled) was my first truck!... oh well... 72 LWB 4x4 350 4-speed 3.08's posi wearing army olive drab green (SOLD!) 68 BURB 50TH LOOKALIKE work in progress, soon to have 250-I6 with a 3-speed on the tree 4.11's and posi ( currently sitting in back yard tarped awaiting time, $$$, and lots of love!) 67 1 TON- work truck 396 sm 420 4-speed, flat bed 4.57 gears "big red" (my first landscape truck, very rusty and crusty! but still gets the job done when needed!)

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