01-30-2006, 10:30 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Miami County, kansas
Posts: 40
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Brake problems!
The brakes on our 1983 K20 have been feeling a bit mushy, and gottee worse since adding the lift and tires. When I had the lift put on, the shop added longer brake lines, and the mechanic told me that I would need to re-bleed the brakes again.
I tackled this on Saturday, and may have really screwed something up. Here is what I did; please critique this and let me know what steps I need to take to get this fixed: I started off by checking the brake fluid level in the reservior, and then got my wife up in the cab to pump the brakes for me while I started on the rear passenger bleeder screw. I told her to pump the brake pedal three times and hold the pedal down after the third downward stroke and hold it until I said to relase it. She did, and I opened the bleeder screw (attached to a hose to catch the fluid). Not much fluid or air came out, so I tighted the screw back, had her release the pedal and had her pump/hold again. Still not much fluid or air came out. I went back to the fluid reservoir and noticed that I had not fastened the reservoir cover back on (I'm an idiot), and the pumping had caused fluid to overflow from the reservoir. I re-topped the reservoir, securely fastened the reservoir cover back on this time, and went back to the rear passenger bleeder screw. This time, her pumps/hold produced a few air bubbles, and the fluid started flowing better. We repeated the pump/hold/release process about 10 times (I tightened the bleeder screw immediately after the fluid stopped flowing each time), checking the reservoir level periodically and adding fluid to the smaller reservoir side as needed. I then went to the rear driver's side. I noticed that the bleeder screw on the rear driver's side has the shoulders stripped off, and there is no way to loosen it. I'm not sure what to do here. I then went to the passenger front side, and repeated the process. No problems at all. Same for the front driver's side. Fluid added in this process refilled the larger reservoir side as needed. When I started the truck up for a test drive, the brake light came on after getting underway. Pumping the brakes would make flash off and on, but the pedal feels mushy and stepping hard on the brakes makes them go nearly to the floor. I repeated the bleeding process above, hoping that it was just air in the lines from my failing to replace the reservoir cover screw up. No air came out at all, but my wife commented that the front brakes would go all the way to the floor during the "hold/bleed" process, but only went about 1/2 way before stopping during the "hold/bleed" process on the single side in the rear. I would appreciate suggestions on what I should do now. If I have to, I can limp it into the shop tomorrow for a diagnosis. Thanks in advance, Bud
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Current GM toys: 1983 Chevrolet K20 4x4, 2004.5 Chevrolet 2500HD LT Duramax 4x4 |
01-30-2006, 11:03 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 3,415
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Re: Brake problems!
Here is a guide to bleeding your brakes. Makes sure the master cylinder never goes empty during the process, or it will cause more air to enter the system. Note what Swervin says about waiting 15 seconds...
http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/chas...sion/bleed.htm I have seen some posts like yours before, but never have experienced it myself. I seem to recall that others fixed their problem by doing something involving the proportioning valve or whatever it is that is on the small crossmember that is right behind the radiator. You might try doing a search and see what you come up with. Hopefully this little bump will get your message read by a few more people. On the broken bleeder, it needs to be replaced. That is probably part of your sponginess. If you can't bleed it, the person who installed the new brake lines could not either. That was why he told you to do it Can you remove it with vice-grips? You can get a new one at an auto parts store. If you can't get it loose, I would replace the whole cylinder. They don't cost much, but there labor probably will if you have to pay someone to do it. Good luck, Slonaker EDIT: Look at this page, especially the section that says "Test Combination/Proportioning Valve." http://www.classicperform.com/TechBo...tm#tshootbleed Last edited by Slonaker; 01-30-2006 at 11:13 AM. |
01-30-2006, 11:45 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Miami County, kansas
Posts: 40
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Re: Brake problems!
Thanks for the reply and guidance, Slonaker. I really appreciate it.
BTW, I see that you live in San Antonio. I lived there 20 years ago, and have 1 brother in Boerne and another in Cibolo. I miss Texas. Bud
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Current GM toys: 1983 Chevrolet K20 4x4, 2004.5 Chevrolet 2500HD LT Duramax 4x4 |
01-30-2006, 01:25 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 3,415
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Re: Brake problems!
I live in that part of town, and end up in Cibolo/Universal City/Schertz quite often. I grew up in Converse, so I am quite familiar with those little towns.
Slonaker |
01-30-2006, 07:50 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: CT
Posts: 454
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Re: Brake problems!
one of the best things i ever bought was a quality vacuum pump that i needed to get the oil out of a boat engine. i use this thing for everything (great for emptying the radiator, gas tanks etc). it is a great one person, pretty much idiot proof (trust me!) way to bleed brakes and hydraulic clutches. just receently i replaced rear brake lines and had to bleed them. i was able to it correctly, by myeself, with out trouble. just a handy thing to have.
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1985 GMC Sierra 1500, 1/2 ton, 2WD, LWB, TBI 305 5 speed, 3.42 rear 2007 GMC Sierra 1500, xtended cab, 4X4, flexfuel 5.3L 1999 BMW 528i |
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