Wanting to tow with my 71

[Shon]

I have a stock 1971 Cheyenne with 3.73s/350/350. I am wanting to tow my camaro to the track but wondering what all I will need suspension wise and brake wise.

Stock front disc and drum rears, manual brakes with no booster. And rear coil springs.

The trailer has brakes so I will be using a brake controller.

What suggestions would you guys have? I figure I might need some air shocks or airbags in the rear coils to help with the load. but wondering if the stock brakes will work or if I need a brake booster.

Any help is appreciated!!

[FormerMember]

Shouldn't need much suspension wise, if your stock stuff is in good shape. Your trailer can't have more than 500-750lbs tongue weight, if the trailer's loaded right. Trailer should be right about 5K lbs.

I would add power brakes.

[Longhorn Man]

As long as you don't get stupid with your tailgating, just make sure all your brakes are in good shape, then level the weight on the trailer to where you are sagging a little, and try it out.
Board member Huck used to have a 350/5 speed with a 3.08 gear in a 71 or 72 1/2 ton, he hauled heavy stuff all the time like that. He said it lets you know it's there, but as long as you remember what's there, you'll be OK.

Now, as far as what the truck is built for... you'll be over weight for sure.






He drove like this from here in Columbus Ohio... to Southern Indiana IIRC.



Power brakes are nice to have, but shouldn't be needed IMO. I wouldn't hesitate to do it myself.

[Shon]

Thanks!
I like the idea of power brakes, any recommendations on parts? links? pix, difficulty?

The car is 2800 and the trailer is probably 1500 so I think will be in the 4300-4500 for towing, but that does not include any other items, like tools and such.

And you mention him pulling with 3.08s, I was wondering if I could put a 3.42ish gear in there and help with the MPG factor when not towing but probably would be better with the 3.73s in tow mode since it is a 106k mile stock motor which needs gaskets and a good tune up (carb rebuilt etc).

I am considering putting an aluminum intake and Holley carb on it and some headers to help some, and then if it might need more a small cam.

But I probably should be more worried about stopping the stuff rather than getting it going.

[TP from Cntl PA]

If you got good brakes on the trailer I wouldn't waste my time with a booster on the truck..........Just jack the trailer brakes up some with controller to help with stopping.

IMO, those 1/2 tons will take WAY more than the conservative rating GM gave them new We never found the breaking limits to any of our trucks, and Lord knows we tried!

[LUV2XCLR8]

Are you using a bumper hitch or a receiver hitch?, just say NO to bumpers

[Shon]

Originally Posted by LUV2XCLR8

Are you using a bumper hitch or a receiver hitch?, just say NO to bumpers

I would be getting a receiver hitch.

[LUV2XCLR8]

Originally Posted by Shon

I would be getting a receiver hitch.

[Longhorn Man]

Good call on the hitch, I normally mention that, bumper hitches is one of my pet peves.
3.07 gears pretty much suck for towing onless you have a low end torque motor in front of it. 2500 at 60 MPH is just a bit too low an RPM IMO.

[roazo]

If you want a good towing cam try a stock chevy 327-350 hp. You can use this with out changing exhaust, manifold or carb.Peak touque for this cam is 2600 RPM. That is perfect for your 3.73 gear.You canget this cam from sealed power Is called L-79 thats the corvette opition code. As far as brakes if your trailer has brakes you should have no problem stopping.

[Shon]

thanks!
My old neighbor had that cam in his early 80s truck and towed an enclosed trailer for his gokart.

If I got this cam, would I be able to use the stock torq converter?

[roazo]

Yes you can use the stock converter, this cam has lots of power off idle. It will also idle at about 650 RPM. The best street cam ever made.

[Shon]

Awesome! Stock springs specific for that cam or any new "stock" springs will work?
Now wondering if I should pull the motor and put new gaskets and rings or just pull with it and see how it does and then later pull it and do all the upgrades.

Stock 106k miles needing new gaskets for sure!!

[PanelDeland]

I would try with what you got and if you need more motor buy a junkyard core and build it.That way your truck is only down for a weekend engine swap.

[Shon]

Luckily this is a weekend truck and an emergency ride incase my other 2 family cars do not work.

My space is limited or else I would store this stock motor and put in a Fuel Injected set up. Then there is the funds missing to buy a whole new FI motor....

[wibilly]

longhorn man what do you mean as for what the truck is built for you will be overweight for sure? what were these trucks built for passenger cars? hell my 97 astro van with a 4.3 vortec and 3.42s has a factory toiwing rating of 6000 lbs imo this is a little piece of sh!t in comparason to a 71 chev pu what were the rated to tow?

[Stocker]

You didn't mention tires, but I'd want at least an LT with a load range C rating....

[Longhorn Man]

Actually, if the trailer is loaded properly, there won't be enough weight to warrent LT tires.... HOWEVER.... it is still a good idea though.

[Shon]

I will have to see the ratings on the current set of tires. they are fairly new.
Size wise they are 235/?/15 and 275/60/15 on Chromed Chevy Ralleys 15x8 fronts and 15x10s on the rear.

[roazo]

Stock springs will work just fine the can has .447 lift at the valve.

[OhioChevy]

Get a good hitch such as a equalizer with sway bars and set the rig up
right and you will be amazed at how well it handles.

[TP from Cntl PA]

Originally Posted by OhioChevy

Get a good hitch such as a equalizer with sway bars and set the rig up
right and you will be amazed at how well it handles.

My neighbor has one of those on his bumper pull camper.........I rode with him some and I don't see much(If any) improvement for the price you pay for them. However, I am a farm boy and that sort of deal didn't happen on the farm(All you need is a HD reciever and a ball).

Honestly, any trailers I buy now will be either 5th wheel or Gooseneck.........They pull a heck of alot nicer and are alot easier on the pickp.

[Robert1970C20rstbukt]

I agree with Tom on the gooseneck trailers, even though I don't pull 'em. I have the gooseneck plate mounted to the frame on my truck, but I don't want to cut a hole in the bed. I pulled a loaded bumper pull hay trailer a couple times, that was fun. My truck has power brakes with drums front/rear and it stopped good, but you could sure feel that trailer back there when the wind blew hard. The only stuff I'm adding to my truck for pulling is a trailer brake controller with the 7 way round plug connector mounted in the bumper, and a set of Gabriel load-carrier coilover shocks.

[68gmcdually]

I've got a class IV hitch on my truck with the load equalizer hitch for the car hauler and it tows like a dream. When I am towing the house trailer I don't use the bars and it tows almost as good, but there is a difference. I wouldn't tow a trailer without brakes anymore, too many close calls, including a jackknifing under emergency stopping conditions.