busted heater control... need HELP!!

[beater69]

my fan speed control lever recently broke. so i took it all apart in the process i had to seperate the steel framework from the potmetal faceplate. that seems to be my problem. i'm not sure what you call them but, the rivet type things that attach the two pieces together are falling apart. otherwise the faceplate is fine. can i get away with jbwelding them together? or maybe using sheet metal screws and if they stick through the face i can grind them down and use the new decal to replace the old one? that seems really cheesy, i just don't want to ruin it further and have to buy a new one.
any one go through this?

[CG]

i jb welded mine years ago and its still holding up fine. while you have it all apart make sure you clean and lube your your cables and vents etc etc .... you get the idea. if everything is moving smoothly jb weld will last a real long time.

[Green Machine]

Might check the parts board, you should be able to get a good used one pretty reasonable, if you prefer.

[jhwkns]

I rebuilt mine not long ago..
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=179952

[beater69]

i've already bought a kit from lmc. i'm not really happy with the knobs they give you. they are slightly bigger which isn't a big deal but they are cheap plastic. i tried to use my old ones which are the original, but would not fit on the new levers. i guess i can't win for losing. thanks for all the help everyone, i think going to try to jbweld it together today.

[Brad]

These trucks are a dime a dozen here in the NW. You should be able to find a used one in a junkyard if it doesn't work out for you.

[birdie]

I just bought one from a board member the other day for a very reasonable price. Just keep a lookout in the parts for sale forum.

[dennislbrooks]

Ok-here I go again Redneck Repair-- another method as I did mine. Of course make sure all parts work freely --cables and pivots as stated by CG above. I used an old sabre saw metal blades ( about a quarter inch wide-- with a grinder made it the correct width to accept the OEM knob as a push on and ground it to overlap the remaining arm -- one well placed - 1/8" hole for one steel rivet. Grind for placement between the raised edges of the reamining cast oem arm so that it cannot move either way with the one rivet--painted it silver. Works like a charm and not noticed from not being oem. Total cost about 25 cents and my time.

[beater69]

Originally Posted by dennislbrooks

Ok-here I go again Redneck Repair-- another method as I did mine. Of course make sure all parts work freely --cables and pivots as stated by CG above. I used an old sabre saw metal blades ( about a quarter inch wide-- with a grinder made it the correct width to accept the OEM knob as a push on and ground it to overlap the remaining arm -- one well placed - 1/8" hole for one steel rivet. Grind for placement between the raised edges of the reamining cast oem arm so that it cannot move either way with the one rivet--painted it silver. Works like a charm and not noticed from not being oem. Total cost about 25 cents and my time.

Wow, that is a one of the best ideas. I wish I would have known that before. Oh well. Here is what i did to fix my problem with the brittle rivet things that hold the face to the steel frame behind it. I peeled the decal off the face then drilled four holes in place of the rivets. Just big enough to fit some #6 machine screws. countersunk them in the face jbwelded them so they stuck out the back like threaded studs. then slipped the steel frame on the back, puts some nuts on it and called it macaroni!! Now it is very strong and removable. I don't know when I will ever need to take it apart again but I can if I need to later. Well thats my two cents. Thanks everyone

[beater69]

and I do have a new decal for the front to finish it off.