Engine move forward - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Bob D · 04-13-2006, 12:02 PM

I was taking a closer look at my drivetrain now that the body parts are off and noticed some oddities. (Truck was a 6cyl manual converted to a v8 auto by a PO) The tranny x-member is not original, and there are no bolts holding it to the top rail of the frame! No holes are lined up there either. I also found out that there are no bolts in the bottom of the engine towers to the front x-member. Looks like the towers are in the front holes, but are installed bassackwards. What should I do? Drill holes, put in bolts and call it a day? or swap the towers around, bringing the engine forward about 2.5-3" where it should be? Do I have enough tranny slip yoke to come out 3" or will it fall out. Truck has about a 3" drop in the rear and the yoke only travels about 1" at the most now. See pics:

Bob

67ChevyRedneck · 04-13-2006, 12:40 PM

Looks like the previous owner used the I-6 mounts and moved them forward into the V-8 position. If your ok with it, I don't see the harm in just drilling new holes. If you want it to be "proper" you need to purchase a set of "v-8" mounts (they mount where yours are mounted now and use the crossmember hole closest to the front of the truck). I got mine from a junkyard. As far as the trans, if you get new mounts for the motor, (not sure if it would actually move or not) but just drill holes, use a good bolt grade, and bolt it down. I put a 350/700R4 in my truck using the correct v-8 mounts and location and had to move the trans x-member and drill holes. Hope that all makes sense. If not say so

**CPNE** · 04-13-2006, 12:46 PM

If it were me, I'd correct it by moving it forward, but I'm a stickler for doing "correct" restos. If you are ok with it, leave it be. If you do move it forward, you'll need to lengthen the drive shaft, have the correct small block mounts and short water pump pulleys and accessory brackets.

Bob D · 04-13-2006, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

Looks like the previous owner used the I-6 mounts and moved them forward into the V-8 position. If your ok with it, I don't see the harm in just drilling new holes. If you want it to be "proper" you need to purchase a set of "v-8" mounts (they mount where yours are mounted now and use the crossmember hole closest to the front of the truck). I got mine from a junkyard. As far as the trans, if you get new mounts for the motor, (not sure if it would actually move or not) but just drill holes, use a good bolt grade, and bolt it down. I put a 350/700R4 in my truck using the correct v-8 mounts and location and had to move the trans x-member and drill holes. Hope that all makes sense. If not say so

Thanks for the reply. I have given up "proper" for just plain functional a long time ago

These look like v8 mounts, they are offset and not straight like the I6 mounts are supposed to be. They are mounted with the offset to the rear, moving the engine back though. The rear wire on the HEI cap barely rubs the firewall. I am just wondering if I move it forward if I will have to get a new driveshaft.

Bob

67ChevyRedneck · 04-13-2006, 01:07 PM

This is how I'm seeing it, you have I-6 mounts in the V-8 location. I could be wrong, it's been 2 years since I've done mine?? V-8 mounts use the two holes closest to the front of the truck and are shorter than the I-6 mounts and use the cross-member hole closest to the front.

67ChevyRedneck · 04-13-2006, 01:08 PM

If you think they are v-8 mounts, is it possible they were put in backwards??? which would make no sense because they are in the correct loction, just backwards

It's really hard to tell things from prictures

By the way, driveshafts are fairly cheap, I think it would be much cheaper to buy a "new" used one from a 'yard or board member and have it shortened. I had mine shortened for like $15. I think the guy told me if it had to be lenghtened it would have been between $40 and $60.

Bob D · 04-13-2006, 01:15 PM

I think that they are backwards, because if I reversed them they would offset forward and mate up with the frontmost crossmember hole. As it is now, I have a short water pump and spacer and the fan barely reaches the shroud.

Bob

**VetteVet** · 04-13-2006, 04:40 PM

BobD Here's a thread you might be interested in. It tells how to install the new style engine mounts in the older trucks.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=128765

Bob D · 04-13-2006, 05:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VetteVet

BobD Here's a thread you might be interested in. It tells how to install the new style engine mounts in the older trucks.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=128765

Thanks, I'll take a look.

Bob

04-13-2006, 12:02 PM	#1
Bob D Rolled on Paint Club Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Windham, CT. Posts: 232	Engine move forward I was taking a closer look at my drivetrain now that the body parts are off and noticed some oddities. (Truck was a 6cyl manual converted to a v8 auto by a PO) The tranny x-member is not original, and there are no bolts holding it to the top rail of the frame! No holes are lined up there either. I also found out that there are no bolts in the bottom of the engine towers to the front x-member. Looks like the towers are in the front holes, but are installed bassackwards. What should I do? Drill holes, put in bolts and call it a day? or swap the towers around, bringing the engine forward about 2.5-3" where it should be? Do I have enough tranny slip yoke to come out 3" or will it fall out. Truck has about a 3" drop in the rear and the yoke only travels about 1" at the most now. See pics: Bob Attached Images __________________ 1970 GMC 1500 swb fleetside SB 355ci. Smog heads Summit 1102 cam Performer intake and carb. Finally in about 1 piece in the yard.

04-13-2006, 12:40 PM	#2
67ChevyRedneck Hittin E-Z Street on Mud Tires Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Greenville, SC Posts: 23,090	Re: Engine move forward Looks like the previous owner used the I-6 mounts and moved them forward into the V-8 position. If your ok with it, I don't see the harm in just drilling new holes. If you want it to be "proper" you need to purchase a set of "v-8" mounts (they mount where yours are mounted now and use the crossmember hole closest to the front of the truck). I got mine from a junkyard. As far as the trans, if you get new mounts for the motor, (not sure if it would actually move or not) but just drill holes, use a good bolt grade, and bolt it down. I put a 350/700R4 in my truck using the correct v-8 mounts and location and had to move the trans x-member and drill holes. Hope that all makes sense. If not say so __________________ Jesse James 1967 C10 SWB Stepside: 350/700R4/3.73 1965 Ford Mustang: 289/T5-5spd/3.25 Trac-Loc 1968 Pontiac Firebird: Project Fire Chicken! 2015 Silverado Double Cab 5.3L Z71 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L 5spd 2020 Chevrolet Equinox Premium 2.0L Turbo 2011 Mustang V6 ~ Wife's ride American Born, Country by the Grace of God 1967 CST Shop Truck Rebuild! My 1967 C-10 Build Thread My Vintage Air A/C Install Project "On a Dime" Trying my hand at Home Renovation! 1965 Mustang Modifications! Last edited by 67ChevyRedneck; 04-13-2006 at 12:42 PM.

04-13-2006, 12:46 PM	#3
CPNE Resident Curmudgeon Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: NH Posts: 6,664	Re: Engine move forward If it were me, I'd correct it by moving it forward, but I'm a stickler for doing "correct" restos. If you are ok with it, leave it be. If you do move it forward, you'll need to lengthen the drive shaft, have the correct small block mounts and short water pump pulleys and accessory brackets. __________________ Currently on or near the homestead: 67 Chevy SWB 2WD stepside 350/3 on tree (Pat's) 67 GMC SWB 2WD Fleet 402/auto (Brian's under construction) 67 Chevy 3/4 ton 2WD 402/auto (Business Hauler) 67 Chevy 1 ton dually 2WD 396/4 speed (Former business hauler, Needs TLC) 68 Chevy 1/2 ton Suburban 2WD 250 six/3 on tree (Brian's Needs TLC) 70 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD 350/4 speed (Pat's - Disguised as a 68 GMC) 71 Chevy SWB stepside (Crushed by tree - parts donor) 72 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD (Parts donor) 72 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD Suburban (Parts Donor) 72 GMC 3/4 ton 4WD 292 six/4 speed (Mine - Disguised as a 67 GMC) 81 GMC 4WD Dually Dump Body 350/4 speed (Business Hauler) 82 Camaro Z/28 355/Super T-10 (Pat's toy) 93 Caprice 9C1 (Brian's Cop Car) 02 Toyota Camry (Reliable but a souless steel and plastic hulk) 2011 2SS RS Camaro M6 Factory Hurst Shifter Maybe I need to sell some of this crap Yet another Bozo with a sawz-all

04-13-2006, 01:07 PM	#5
67ChevyRedneck Hittin E-Z Street on Mud Tires Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Greenville, SC Posts: 23,090	Re: Engine move forward This is how I'm seeing it, you have I-6 mounts in the V-8 location. I could be wrong, it's been 2 years since I've done mine?? V-8 mounts use the two holes closest to the front of the truck and are shorter than the I-6 mounts and use the cross-member hole closest to the front. Attached Images __________________ Jesse James 1967 C10 SWB Stepside: 350/700R4/3.73 1965 Ford Mustang: 289/T5-5spd/3.25 Trac-Loc 1968 Pontiac Firebird: Project Fire Chicken! 2015 Silverado Double Cab 5.3L Z71 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L 5spd 2020 Chevrolet Equinox Premium 2.0L Turbo 2011 Mustang V6 ~ Wife's ride American Born, Country by the Grace of God 1967 CST Shop Truck Rebuild! My 1967 C-10 Build Thread My Vintage Air A/C Install Project "On a Dime" Trying my hand at Home Renovation! 1965 Mustang Modifications!

04-13-2006, 01:08 PM	#6
67ChevyRedneck Hittin E-Z Street on Mud Tires Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Greenville, SC Posts: 23,090	Re: Engine move forward If you think they are v-8 mounts, is it possible they were put in backwards??? which would make no sense because they are in the correct loction, just backwards It's really hard to tell things from prictures By the way, driveshafts are fairly cheap, I think it would be much cheaper to buy a "new" used one from a 'yard or board member and have it shortened. I had mine shortened for like $15. I think the guy told me if it had to be lenghtened it would have been between $40 and $60. __________________ Jesse James 1967 C10 SWB Stepside: 350/700R4/3.73 1965 Ford Mustang: 289/T5-5spd/3.25 Trac-Loc 1968 Pontiac Firebird: Project Fire Chicken! 2015 Silverado Double Cab 5.3L Z71 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L 5spd 2020 Chevrolet Equinox Premium 2.0L Turbo 2011 Mustang V6 ~ Wife's ride American Born, Country by the Grace of God 1967 CST Shop Truck Rebuild! My 1967 C-10 Build Thread My Vintage Air A/C Install Project "On a Dime" Trying my hand at Home Renovation! 1965 Mustang Modifications! Last edited by 67ChevyRedneck; 04-13-2006 at 01:12 PM.

04-13-2006, 01:15 PM	#7
Bob D Rolled on Paint Club Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Windham, CT. Posts: 232	Re: Engine move forward I think that they are backwards, because if I reversed them they would offset forward and mate up with the frontmost crossmember hole. As it is now, I have a short water pump and spacer and the fan barely reaches the shroud. Bob __________________ 1970 GMC 1500 swb fleetside SB 355ci. Smog heads Summit 1102 cam Performer intake and carb. Finally in about 1 piece in the yard.

04-13-2006, 04:40 PM	#8
VetteVet Msgt USAF Ret Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Kalamazoo, Michigan Posts: 8,717	Re: Engine move forward BobD Here's a thread you might be interested in. It tells how to install the new style engine mounts in the older trucks. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=128765 __________________ VetteVet metallic green 67 stepside 74 corvette convertible 1965 Harley sportster 1995 Harley wide glide Growing old is hell, but it beats the alternative.

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