Starting an engine (Been 5 years since last started)

[JRB]

I am going to drain the gas and put new in. I am going to replace the fuel pump and spray Gum out down the carborator. I am going to change the oil and anti-freeze. I am replaceing the plugs wires, cap and rotor. I guess what I need to know is should I spray something in the cylinders when I change the spark plugs? The truck needs a complete frame up but I am going to drive it until my other projects are complete. The motor has 46,000 original miles on it, so im guessing it probably is in pretty good shape. Does anyone know of anything else I should do before I start the motor?
Thanks,
JRB

[ChevyDude]

I have heard it is a good idea to turn the crank manually a few spins just to get things moving and the oil pump a movin'.

[shelby987]

I would prime the oil pump. Pull the distributor and get an adaptor to chuck into a power drill (or you can cut up an old distributor shaft if you have one).
I would spray some WD40 into the cylinders if its been sitting for a long time.

Once you get it all warm and running, you might want to do another oil change at 500 miles or so, but that might be overkill if its just gonna be a driver that will eventually get torn down.

[formula_raider]

JRB....sounds like you just about got everything covered. Get you a small can of starting fluid/ether and when you are ready to start the truck give it a couple of quick squirts. This will fire the engine quickly and prime that new fuel pump. Dont spray the inside of the carb till it has ran awhile.
Also put a small squirt of Marvel Mystery Oil down each plug hole, it will help lubericate the rings and keep them from binding to the cylinder walls. I use a coating on the inside of the cylinder walls when I rebuild an engine.
Good luck.

[70rs/ss]

Try to turn it over by hand first to see if it is locked up, if not (and it spins OK) then just do as you have stated above, but pull the carb before you hose it down cause that stuff will run into the cylinders and could liquid lock it. I'd pull the distributor and run an oil priming tool through it to force the new oil into the bearings and lifters. The tool can be had for $30ish from summit, once you prime it and oil is flowing to the rockers, roll the motor over (with the key just like starting the engine, except pull the plugs so it will roll over easily) put plugs back in and cleaned carb back on and start.

[Green Machine]

I assume SBC ? Carefully check the pushrods where they go thru the guides in the head. Sometimes they rust right there, and then you have 16 little rat tail files eating out the pushrod guides, my last old motor was that way. Push rods can be flipped end for end to get by.

[JRB]

Its a 67 327, the long range plans are to take the entire top end off the motor and replace it with an 86 Corvette TPI top end. When I do that I am probably going to have the bottom end completely gone through and balanced. But I just dont want to do any damage to it at this point. I have 5 trucks to complete before I get to this one. I have already purchased the tpi and am looking for the compatable heads for it. Thanks for all the information.
JRB

[cdowns]

if you still have points i'd clean them and set the dwell

[wolfthing2000]

Pull off the valve covers and spray Gibbs along all of the push rods and valve stems to free the valve train. I have bent push rods from stuck valves before doing exactly what you are about to do. If you can't find Gibbs, PM me and I will help. |It is great penetrating oil.

[toddtheodd]

Doesn't the cam develop flat spots when sitting for a long time like that?
Toad