Bass ackwards booster Q...

[Longhorn Man]

OK, I've never really followed along on all the 'how do i install a booster' threads, and after a search, I know nothing more than I did 10 min ago. (Does anyone have good luck with the search, I NEVER get what i am looking for, even if I put in the actual name of the thread)
Anyways, I have power brakes, and a messed up booster. I'm sick of getting used ones that are either blown from the get go, or blow out a few months later. (Always a bad sign when you get one and pour the brake fluid out of it on the floor when you unpack it.) And if you've priced a new one.... screw that. It blows the Mc Budget.
So, what does it take to get rid of the stupid thing all together? I know the master cylinder has the same part number for power, and non power... So I'm good there.
Am I able to flex and manuver the brake lines enough to do it, or will i be getting out my brake line kinker?
What else is there. I remember something about mocing the rod on the pedal, can this be done with the parts that are on my truck right now?


I've had a truck with manual brakes, and IMO, it wasn't all that bad. I was able to flat spot the tires at will, and there was no "ugly booster" to look at. Plus, never had any booster issues with that one either...for obviouse reasons.

Don't try and sell me a booster, onless it is a remaned unit that you got 2 years ago, has no fluid in it, and are willing to part with it for 50 bucks.

Didn't think so.

So, what's the steps, and do I need any parts to remove this worthles option.

[TugOwar]

I seldom get what I need from the search either Andy.

I drove my 66 1/2 ton all over hell and creation for 12 years with manual brakes. I like my power brakes but I get what you're sayin, they're not absolutely necessary.

I can't help with the conversion question but I think we (the board) should put our heads together and figure out how to rebuild boosters ourselves. There can't be that much to them.

[Sweet72]

I'm almost positive you'll need a different pushrod. I was able to make my non pwr lines work with the booster installed, but they were a bit shorter than I would like em, so going the other way you should have plenty of line to work with. Yea, the used boosters really blow! I had two go out in a years time.

[Longhorn Man]

I'm on #3, and it hasn't even been on the road for a year.
Hmmm, a new push rod.
I'm guessing they are a dime a dozen on the parts board, with everyone installing boosters...
Would the one ton use the same one as the 1/2 ton?

[Sweet72]

Good idea Tug O War. I have a '72 overhaul manual that outlines a step by step rebuild if you have all the fancy GM "J" tools, but I could make them since they're pretty simple tools. I looked on the web for a source for the diaphrams with no luck.

[TugOwar]

Maybe I'll talk to my parts guy at Gonzalez and see if he can find a source.

Sam, maybe if you have the time and means you could scan and post the pages from that manual.

[mister.freeze]

I chunked it all and went with hydroboost. It really wasn't too tough. I think I used a '96 3/4 ton setup from the local parts store. I can help if you go this route.

[Longhorn Man]

that kinda goes against the whole $50 Mc Budget thing.
Honestly, I have never driven a Hydroboost where I liked the pedal feel. That's also one of the problems I've always had with power brakes too, the 'feel' is gone.

[72CSTC5]

Nuts driving with non power brakes. Like everything else, as time progresses so does technology. Dont be lazy and install the power brakes to your ride.

[pritch]

Seems like you need a longer pushrod to convert from non-power to power, maybe you could just shorten the PB pushrod...Or maybe we could trade, I'm converting to PB in a couple months.

[krue]

The manual pushrod is rounded on the end that goes into the m/c. The power pushrod has an eye on either end. They are both adjustable IIRC.

[70GMCer]

does this help?

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=163387

[Solver]

Andy the last 2 boosters I got from oreilly's were $89 for just the booster and $99 for booster and new master cylinder. Might want to check that out before you drop anymore change on a questionable used booster!

[Longhorn Man]

Originally Posted by 72CSTC5

Dont be lazy and install the power brakes to your ride.

Lazy has nothing to do with it, lazy would just replace the booster instead of swapping to manual. It would be quicker and easier, to simply swap the booster out than to convert to manual brakes.

Originally Posted by pritch

...Or maybe we could trade, I'm converting to PB in a couple months.

I would love to swap, and to help you out as you are helping me... but this is my daily driver (only vehicle)... I can't have it down for a couple days waiting on the mail man to bring the the rod.

Krue, good info.

70GMCer, awsome link. Step by step, awsome.

Originally Posted by Solver

Andy the last 2 boosters I got from oreilly's were $89 for just the booster and $99 for booster and new master cylinder. Might want to check that out before you drop anymore change on a questionable used booster!

Interesting.
Now, it has been a couple years, but, last time I checked, they wasnted more like 180 for the booster I needed. I'm wondering if the daul diafram, drum drum, is that much more than the 1/2 ton disk/drum parts. I guess I need to look around. I honestly haven't bothered since I got sticker shock a few years ago.

[da-burb]

Less than 2 years ago a rebuilt dual diaphram booster from NAPA was $85. The core charge was $2. NAPA also had the booster rebuild kits. I was looking for the rubber boot on the back of the booster and that was the only place I could find that boot, it wasn't sold seperately.

[glock35ipsc]

Andy - PM me your address. I have a non-power rod that I will send you. I don't need it.

Should be able to armstrong the brake lines. I wonder about the proportioning valve? Will you need to replace it with a manual brake distribution block, or whatever they are called for manual brakes?

[neonlarry]

P-Valve is the same

[Sweet72]

Tug O War, I don't have access to a scanner. I checked napaonline for the 3/4 ton dual diaphram is $119 and $28 core charge. Couldn't find any rebuild parts on the site... Sorry for jacking your thread Andy.

[wibilly]

personaly i don't want any vehicle without power brakes. i guess i've gotten so used to them that without it seems like no brakes to me

[TugOwar]

Yes Andy, sorry bout that bro.

[Longhorn Man]

Don't mention it... you guys are keeping it on track. If you came up with the stuff to fix it... I'd jump on your band wagon in a heartbeat. I like the low pedal, the lazy man pedal pressures... just refuse to buy another used booster, and can't afford (or won't afford anyways) a new one.
Your thread jacking is better than some of the other responses... saying I'm lazy and technology has advanced...I guess I may as well install day time driving lights, air bags, and ABS...along with a million warning stickers.
Glock... PM is on the way... This is very much apreciated. I will swap over to non power brakes, and later on down the road when i have the money to spare... or I can budget it into my life, I'll get a new one.