GM crate HT383 or ZZ383

[Billla]

This is really great, detailed information!

$75 for short-block ass'y is REALLY cheap - figure a shop rate of $65/hour, I would expect ~4-6 hours for ass'y. And just so we're doing an apples-to-apples comparison, this is a cast crank and pistons and does not include head, cam or valvetrain, right? Heads would add $500, cam/valvetrain maybe another $100 low end, $300 high end.

[mrein3]

Originally Posted by Billla

This is really great, detailed information!

$75 for short-block ass'y is REALLY cheap - figure a shop rate of $65/hour, I would expect ~4-6 hours for ass'y.

Yes. But if I wasn't busy at the time I'd have done it myself for $0. And he needed the money more than the time.

Originally Posted by Billla

And just so we're doing an apples-to-apples comparison, this is a cast crank and pistons and does not include head, cam or valvetrain, right? Heads would add $500, cam/valvetrain maybe another $100 low end, $300 high end.

Crank: Don't know, don't care. It is a stock 400 small block crank my rebuilder had laying around. So whatever GM put in that engine at the factory is what I got.
Pistons: Don't know, don't care. What ever was in the kit my rebuilder bought for me. Look in a parts catalog. What $317 buys you is what is in there. I told the machine guy the application which is driving down the slab, pulling a boat down the slab and out of the water at the landing, pulling a fish house on skids across a lake with chains on the front tires, and he built me an engine. He has been doing this since BEFORE these trucks were made so I trust him.

In the almost two years and almost 2000 miles since I did this it hasn't seen a second over 3500 r's. Heck I could have got by with a wax crankshaft.

I did purchase a cam myself. I don't remember the cost but it was a Comp Cams cam. I'm sure I have the receipt somewhere.

People, you have to look in the mirror and be a realist. MOST of these trucks lead a pretty mundane life. Except for the few drag trucks on this list, a stock rebuild will do just fine for most of us.

If you want to throw away a bunch of money on an engine that can run 5000 r's for 20 hours straight, then drive it to church on Sunday go ahead.

My favorite is the people with dilusions of grandeur who think that headers actually add to your stock engine when in most mundane trucks, LIKE MOST OF US OWN, they actually ROB horsepower.

The ONLY reason I went with a 383 is that I needed to bore the engine so I needed new pistons. Since I needed new pistons, there is basically NO difference in price between the 350 and the 383 kit. The only difference is you need a different crank shaft. I probably would have had to put $150 in the stock 350 crank to get it trued up for all new parts. My builder had 400 crank on the shelf with all the machine work done to drop in a 350 to make a nice little 383.

I'm sorry if I sound cranky this morning but it is Monday. And I hate to see people throw good money away on an engine Ricky Bobby could run all day Sunday when the application they really need is the 350 my father-in-law has had in his farm truck since 1985.

[Billla]

Originally Posted by mrein3

I'm sorry if I sound cranky this morning but it is Monday. And I hate to see people throw good money away on an engine Ricky Bobby could run all day Sunday when the application they really need is the 350 my father-in-law has had in his farm truck since 1985.

Hey, I agree with you completely - I just wanted to get the numbers on the table.

[Daubs]

If you are going to run a manual tranny and keep the RPM's under 4,000, then I'd suggest the HT383. It's built for low end torque and would be great in a truck. The ZZ will be better suited for auto and/or car application where you would be hitting higher RPM to make your power.

I looked at the HT383 for my truck, but didn't want to spend the ~$3,500+ for one. My $1,300 crate 350 does just fine for me, than you very much. If I did replace somewhere down the road, you can bet the HT 383 would be going in my truck.

Another thing that appealed to me about a new crate motor as opposed to an engine shop build, is the crate is using all NEW parts...nothing reman or used. Just my opinion...I could be wrong.

[bazkook]

I'm having a 383 stroker built for only $4700,parts and labor,by a speed shop in the middle Georgia area. I based the build on an article I read in Chevy High Performance a few months ago. CHP built three small blocks,a 355,383,and 396,for only about $5500 each and each made over 400 hp on motor alone and well over 500 on a 125 shot of nitrous. The 383 I'm building will be more powerful than the 383 in CHP thanks to a roller cam and a few different parts and I'm spending less than $5000.

[watahyahknow]

you guys are so lucky to have these engineshops and partsupliers sitting just around the corner of youre homes , if i rebuild an american engine i have to plan the ordering of EVERY SINGLE PART IN ADVANCE cause if i forget a nut or bolt i have to wait bout 5 weeks for a part to arive here in europe and pay more for shipping than the price of the part itself .
i've been looking into a 383 as whell , the reason i now go for a rebuild is that difference in price of sending over just the parts i need instead of a complete engine ,
i allready have the heaviest parts mounted in the truck .

another little advantage with a seasoned block is that all the tentions wish are in a new block because of the casting and stuff are released in a whell used blok so if you have the block machined true it will distort less and theoreticly give more power wish is nice if youre driving a winston cup car to work every day

if i would live in the states and only had the choice between the zz and the ht i would go for the ht 383 , its the ideal truckengine

[hotrod 80]

i have the fastburn heads and like them alot . I have these on a roller lifter, 1-peice rear seal block , with hydraulic roller cam . I like the these blocks , rods , and used old school trw 2256 flat tops .