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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Central PA
Posts: 12,201
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Rear Tank fitment questions
Hi there, Just started mocking up my poly tank for the rear of my 68 SWB K-10. Does this look like the correct position? I removed the smaller support that was riveted to the lower portion of the frame first and the exhaust hanger rivet as well. My tank has a groove on the rear that lets it sit under the cross sill about two inches.
Only problem I see is that the edges of the tank (lip) that are supposed to hold under the frame seem a little narrow. You can see the pic that shows the space, I could even it out but it doesn't seem correct. If I moved the tank to the rear more then the fram narrows a little. But then the cross sill won't work and the holes wont line up. Any suggestions? |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Georgetown, Texas
Posts: 97
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Re: Rear Tank fitment questions
Where did you get the tank from? I am considering doing the same thing on a 71.
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Fort Worth, TEXAS
Posts: 4
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Re: Rear Tank fitment questions
I am new to this forum and was just browsing so.... I think you could get a piece of .250 plate and make a extenson of the flange to hold the tank flang.
My onley concern would be holding the weight of a full tank thats wy I was thinking .250. You might see if there is enough clearnce to run it across the top of the frame with welds on both sides of the fram to make it rigid and spread the load. I would make it long enough you could install some l angels on each end to give stiftness. Hard to put mental drawins into words. Good luck Bill |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Central PA
Posts: 12,201
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Re: Rear Tank fitment questions
I though about welding a small piece of to make the frame 1" wider on that side. The tank is supported by metal straps underneath that squeze it up against the frame.
I purchased the tank from The Truck Shop out of TN (Not the CA guys) http://www.thetruckshop.com/ great guys to do business with great prices. I talked to them at the Carlisle show and picked up the entire tank kit for $225. Made in Iowa... I figured that if I am tearing out the floor of my truck then why not do this too. I also have other items and pln to do a build thread on all of it. take care |
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#5 | |||
Union Electrician
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Louisville, Ky.
Posts: 3,356
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Re: Rear Tank fitment questions
I believe the tank is too far forward as you should have to trim the rear bed x-member for it fit right being your truck is a short bed. Here is a couple of pics that I copied off this board a while back and it will give you a better idea of where it should be located.
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Last edited by byrd; 10-08-2006 at 10:12 PM. |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Central PA
Posts: 12,201
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Re: Rear Tank fitment questions
That looks like a steel floor, wonder if there is a difference. Mine will work where it is but it's only a few inches from the rear diff.
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#7 | |||
Union Electrician
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Louisville, Ky.
Posts: 3,356
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Re: Rear Tank fitment questions
Yeah that is what I'm saying, your is too far forwardlook in the pic as they are a few inches behind the panhard bar, so more like 4-5" further back than you. I do believe that the support for the steel and wood are in the same location. I don't see why they wouldn't be the same.
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Last edited by byrd; 10-08-2006 at 10:28 PM. |
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#8 |
State of Confusion!
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Gulfport, MS USA
Posts: 46,901
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Re: Rear Tank fitment questions
Mine is only a C10 SWB, but this will give you an idea how my Blazer tank fit in. Mine is from a 72 blazer and not an aftermarket, but they are about the same except the shap of the filler neck. Both the wood and steel floor brace needs trimmed for it to fit in this location. Second picture shows how the brace is modified. I pla on going back and welid a piece of flat stock steel in the brace to help stiffen it back up some.
Mine was originally for a wood stepside be and now will fit under a steel fleetside. Braces are in the same position and both needed notched
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Bill 1970 Chevy Custom/10 LWB Fleetside 2010 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner SR5 Double Cab - DD Member of Louisiana Classic Truck Club (LCTC) Bill's Gallery Life isn't tied with a bow, but it's still a gift. Live simply. Love generously. Care deeply. Speak kindly. Leave the rest to God! |
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#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Central PA
Posts: 12,201
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Re: Rear Tank fitment questions
How far back from the rear diff is your sitting? I like the idea of tucking the indentation under the cross sill. My holes already line up for that but I will just add a small piece to make the lower lip of the frame a little wider. I will also make a small brace to keep the tank from moving forward. More to come....
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#10 |
State of Confusion!
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Gulfport, MS USA
Posts: 46,901
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Re: Rear Tank fitment questions
I have mine out right now again, but I had plenty of clearance between the rear end and the tank. I used the original holes in the frame for the straps. I used some old garden hose as a buffer between the frame and tank so that I would not have metal rubbing on the tank. With the straps secured you should not need nothing for front to rear movement. I had to prebend my straps a bit so the fit the tank contours better and got a closer fit on the bottom.
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Bill 1970 Chevy Custom/10 LWB Fleetside 2010 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner SR5 Double Cab - DD Member of Louisiana Classic Truck Club (LCTC) Bill's Gallery Life isn't tied with a bow, but it's still a gift. Live simply. Love generously. Care deeply. Speak kindly. Leave the rest to God! |
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#11 |
Semi-Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Washington, MO
Posts: 390
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Re: Rear Tank fitment questions
Do yourself a favor and check your fuel sending unit for leaks. I messed with the poly tank set up forEVER to stop any leaks. I plugged all hose oulets except one. I sprayed a soapy water mixture around the sending unit and blew compressed air, GENTLY, into the tank. If you get any bubbles around the sending, remove it and reposition the seal. I finally used the origional gasket that was on the origional cab tank to get it to stop leaking.
Why do this? I had done a search on this forum years ago, and many with the poly tank complained of water getting into the tank from a leaking sender. Even though I've not put in a steel tank, I would recommend it over the poly, if you can return yours. BTW, I agree, you're too far forward with your first pic. I'm pretty sure we had to notch out the bed support to fit over the tank.
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'68 50th Anniversery LWB Custom Fleetside, '77 305 v-8, turbo 350, factory speed alert (still works), '71 drivetrain w/front discs. Some call it ugly yellow, others call it Ochre '83 Jeep CJ-7, <80,000 miles, original owner '04 Chevy Suburban, 4x4, 2500, 6.0 ltr, Predator Diablo programmer '95 GMC K1500 Extended cab Last edited by 68speedalert; 10-10-2006 at 01:03 PM. |
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#12 |
yeeha
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sherwood Park & Fort McMurray, Alberta
Posts: 72
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Re: Rear Tank fitment questions
Hey Bill
I was wondering how high the bottom of your blazer tank will sit from the ground?? I was thinking about doing this, but with a lwb and sharp driveway approaches I’m worried that the tank might scratch the ground. I guess as long as you keep close as possible to the axle you should be alright
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1969 GMC 910 97% rust free 2002 olds Alero 1986 New Yorker 4dr ... the new DD...My POS car... dude its got a turbo!!! Don't drink and drive, you might spill something!!! Daryl Kuchmak |
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