Burning oil?

[lucky13csa]

I just found out that my 292 is actually a 250. I pulled the head and the valve seats are shot.
My problem was:

--burning blue smoke at all times
--bogging or stalling from standstill(under load)
--backfiring mostly through exhaust and sometimes through carb
--exhaust gasket was blown out
--fouling plugs
--gas pooling at bottom of intake(I think, it may have been after spraying a bunch of carb cleaner in it) I have backed my idle screw way out and really advanced my timing to get it even drivable.

This truck sat in a field for 3 years(at least). And the oil is really old, haven't changed it yet. Once you get past idle or that low it runs strong.

I have rebuilt carb, replaced all ignition components and all regular tune-up parts. Problem still persists. I'm trying to avoid re-ringing at this time. Compression was within 10% @ around 165 psi on all cylinders. Bores do look glazed. This is a 68 motor with a 67 carb. They went to the monojet in 68, could that be a problem? I'm losing 1-2 quarts of oil a week with no leaks underneath. I am losing some out of the side hole on the valve cover, where can I get a rubber plug for that? Any ideas or suggestions?

And please don't laugh, but I'm desperate. I saw in a joke topic and then noticed it mentioned in some serious topics that ajax could be a temporary solution for glazed cylinders. Is that true or a hoax? I'm serious now

I'm just trying to get this truck running halfway decent so that I can have a truck to pick up parts, drive to work, and so that my wife can use my car.

I definitely have to pick up a used head, what do they run for in junk yards these days?

Thank you for your time.

[krue]

Check around, I'd be surprised if you couldn't find someone in your area with a spare six laying around. I'd do some looking before I drop a lot of money into yours. I've had 2 given to me by board members and another one by an in-law, so I know they are out there.

[lucky13csa]

OK, I'll do that. I'm new here in this town, just moved here the week before Christmas. It'll take me awhile to get around and meet people.

One other thing that I forgot to mention:
I changed the plugs when I got the truck. Later, when I decided to do the compression check, the #2 plug was bent bad like something was inside hitting it. I will describe what I observed when I took the head off. All cylinders were dry, sooty, with normal carbon deposits. #2 was wet, oily, and sooty with GRIT. The top of the piston is dimpled. It appears that a soft piece of metal may have gotten in there and disintegrated. The cylinder wall and the combustion chamber does not show any signs of this kind of abuse that the piston showed. Also, I only had to file the ends of 3-4 valves to slide them out through the guides. I checked by feel if there seemed to be a lot of play and it didn't seem like much(though I don't have any experience with that).

I'll start with the people that I work with and see if I can get any leads on any engines. I met a guy today at work that has a 66 chevy truck. Maybe he might know some people. Thanks and I appreciate your prompt response.

[Longhorn Man]

You need to start by chainging the oil, and draining the fuel out. BOTh will cause many of the problems you just mentioned.

[lucky13csa]

Ok, I'll do that. But, I may not be able to avoid a re ring job afterall. I tried something unorthodox, I took a feeler gauge and went around the gap between the piston and cylinder wall. The #5 piston seems to be missing almost half of its top ring. That is the compression ring, right? How could I get good compression readings with that?
I ran the gas completely out and then refilled with 93 octane. It just lessened the effects that I was having. I can see how old thin oil could get past the rings easier and smoke bad. I wish that I had done that before I took the motor apart just to see what the effect was
I just bought a house, I only have one vehicle, I have no money, and I want my truck on the road so bad that I can't stand it.
I'm just frustrated. I always come through, I'm just having a moment now.

[lucky13csa]

ttt

[Longhorn Man]

if you got a ring missing, then it's hosed as far as gettin it going on a burger and fry mudget.
I would look for another engine. Inlines are given away all the time. I'd try to score one like that or at a minimal price.

[lucky13csa]

Thanks Longhorn.
I will be putting my 427 sooner rather than later. I brought my wife's Burb home last Friday and have it going good with my 427 in the back
Now that we have 2 vehicles and the Burb being big enough to haul parts, I'm doing a frame up restoration of my truck. I'm just going to go ahead and go all out towards the goals that I mentioned in my intro. I have already gutted the interior and taken the I6 out. I wish that I had some pics of before(now) so that I could start a build thread. My digital camera took a crap a couple of months ago. I'm getting a second job delivering pizzas in order to fund my project. I will also be selling some parts as well.
While I have your attention and in case you haven't seen an earlier thread: Is there any such a thing as a ratcheting column shifter? I find it hard to believe that no one has come out with one. Another option that would be cool would be a paddle shifter but, that only works with the new electronic transmissions, right?
Well, thanks a million. Later.

[lucky13csa]

Can a TH350 survive behind a 500hp BBC? Or should I definitely go with the TH400? Thanks.

[Longhorn Man]

a TH350 can be MADE to hold up... but as for a stocker... hope you have a spare.

[lucky13csa]

Some details would be nice and I don't plan to run a stocker. I heard that the TH400 robs some power. What would be required to make a TH350 strong enough? Thanks.

[lucky13csa]

Also, since you are an esteemed member here, perhaps you could point some problem solvers towards this link to provide some feedback? Thanks.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=159273http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=159273