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03-27-2007, 01:27 PM | #1 |
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move crossmember forward?
Isn't the wheel not centered in the fender when these trucks are at full dump? The wheel moves back toward the cab right? Has anybody moved there crossmember forward to correct this? If so, how much?
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03-27-2007, 07:49 PM | #2 |
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Re: move crossmember forward?
Porterbuilt's DropMember is an inch, I think. You're talkin' bout a lot of work to use the stock steering linkage. Rack and pinion would make this much easier. Looks like you might get to be the first...
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03-27-2007, 09:09 PM | #3 |
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Re: move crossmember forward?
I don't know about the rack. I've been Pm'ing porterbuilt about it and it seems it is more complicated (suspension geometry wise) than I had thought.
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03-28-2007, 01:05 AM | #4 |
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Re: move crossmember forward?
It can be complicated... the hard part is making/finding the room to fabricate the mounts for the rack, and getting it in the right location. Fractions of an inch can have a large effect on the steering geometry. There's a reason nobody makes a kit for a 'simple' rack and pinion conversion on these trucks! It can be done, just a lot of planning, a lot of research, and a lot of patience. Anybody could fab some mounts for a rack and pinion and slap it on there... getting it work "right" takes a bit more.
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03-28-2007, 07:29 AM | #5 | |
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Re: move crossmember forward?
Quote:
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03-28-2007, 03:19 PM | #6 |
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Re: move crossmember forward?
Last edited by Alvin; 03-28-2007 at 03:19 PM. |
03-28-2007, 04:03 PM | #7 | |
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Re: move crossmember forward?
Quote:
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03-28-2007, 05:09 PM | #8 | |
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Re: move crossmember forward?
Quote:
"These pictures show the modified upper a-arm ends. With the a-arms in this "low" of a position, the ball joint angles were way off. Now at ride height (as shown in the pictures), the ball joint studs are centered in the joint which will allow a full range of travel without binding." |
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03-28-2007, 06:10 PM | #9 |
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Re: move crossmember forward?
Maybe he raised part of the arm where the ball joint bolts on the side closest to the frame to level it out some? It's hard to tell but there doesn't appear to be as much of a curve on the outboard area of the arm as there is on a stock piece.
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03-28-2007, 06:42 PM | #10 |
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Re: move crossmember forward?
oh yea, I see that. You may be right. It looks like he something was possible cut, welded, and then ground smooth.
I've also read a couple times of people flipping the uppers arms and moving them on opposite sides of the vehicle. Never seen pics of that though. I think I'm just going to get ART uppers. My uppers need to be rebuilt at a cost of about $150. For another $150 bucks, I can just by the ART uppers. Last edited by jlaird; 03-28-2007 at 06:44 PM. |
03-30-2007, 02:50 AM | #11 |
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Re: move crossmember forward?
I have heard of that on big cars, but haven't seen it on a C-10 either...
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03-30-2007, 08:18 AM | #12 |
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Re: move crossmember forward?
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03-30-2007, 10:09 AM | #13 |
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Re: move crossmember forward?
I've read about this here also. I'm gonna try it on my truck, if ti doesn't work I can flip it back.
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03-30-2007, 12:17 PM | #14 |
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Re: move crossmember forward?
I \t works, I bolted them up like that before because I heard the same thing. You don't get full lift because the arm hits the crossmember before its all the way up. You could just cut out part of the arm to male it work but I wouldnt. Plus i think it looks really weird. Its very obvious they arent on right?...
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03-30-2007, 01:12 PM | #15 |
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Re: move crossmember forward?
That was my only concern. If there isn't a way to plate it so it looks better I will just modify the way the ball joint sits in the arm.
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