The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > 47 - Current classic GM Trucks > The 1967 - 1972 Chevrolet & GMC Pickups Message Board

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-24-2002, 09:13 PM   #1
Project1970
14.1 @ 96MPH
 
Project1970's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 2,811
Headlight Relay wiring?

I've seen this referenced a few times, using a relay to switch the headlights so as to get them full battery power...what relay(s) do I need for my GMC and how should I wire them up?

Just wondering, since this is probably a better (and more legally safe, heh) idea than wiring up all four to be low/highs. I do a LOT of my driving at night, so I do want as much light as I can realistically get.
__________________
Project1970 - LS1 Swap Complete!
Project1970 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2002, 10:35 PM   #2
Piston
Account Suspended
 
Piston's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Olathe, KS
Posts: 2,301
Here's a wiring diagram with a bosch relay. This is the generic relay you can buy at any parts store for less than 10 bucks. It's a 30A relay which will be more than addiquate for the 12amps max your current headlights pull.

The toggle switch will now be your headlight switch. Take the wire going to your right headlight (mount the relay closest to the battery if you want so you reduce the amount of wiring you need). Be safe and add a inline fuse between the battery and the relay.

NOTE: You will use the top image (Switch with power on).
Pole connection:
86 - Ground
85 - old headlight wire output
30 - Battery w/fuse
87 - Headlight (Left)
87a - Headlight (Right)


Last edited by Piston; 11-24-2002 at 10:37 PM.
Piston is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2002, 12:20 AM   #3
Longhorn Man
its all about the +6 inches
 
Longhorn Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
Woo hooo....I been planning on this too, but was unsure of the wireing. Thanks.
Longhorn Man is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2002, 06:06 AM   #4
Lippyp
English Chevy Owner
 
Lippyp's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Shropshire, UK/ Lot, France
Posts: 1,848
As I'm a bit of an idiot when it comes to wiring diagrams, what colour is the original wire into the headlight?
__________________
Phil

'67 C10 long fleet.
350/TH350, 4 bbl Carter, K&N, Dual exhaust, loads of stuff coming soon

2001 S10 Blazer Daily Driver, bone stock 4 door 4x4 with manual transmission
Lippyp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2002, 08:43 AM   #5
8mag
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: nampa idaho,usa
Posts: 92
how much difference does it make if your running wagner halogen headlights.
__________________
1972 3/4 4x4,14bolt locker rear, dana44 lock right front, sm465, sb 400, blazer tank,dual batterys,3"lift,32-9.00-16 super swampers
daily driver
other trucks
1972 1 ton dually 4x4,454 4 spd,,235-85-16, flat bed front and rear winches, rear gas tank and under bed gun safe.tilt wheel
8mag is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2002, 04:17 PM   #6
TERRYP
GYRO GEARLOOSE
 
TERRYP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Nevada City, CAEverett, WA
Posts: 361
this moght help
Attached Images
 
__________________
Nevada City, CA
Everett, Washington
57 3/4 rat, 235, 3spd
66 C-10 Panel, SWB. 350 from '68, 200R4 tranny, 3.07 rear ratio, restoring
68 C10 LWB 350 4spd, 4.56 rear dump runner
82 Camaro, 305, THM-200-R4
84 Monte Carlo 305 TH350, land tuna
85 Tercel SW, snow runner

DISGRACED OUTLAW MEMBER OF THE DRUM BRAKE CLUB
TERRYP is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2002, 04:48 PM   #7
XXL
Seņor Member
 
XXL's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Edge of the world
Posts: 5,367
You can do this while retaining your original headlight switch. Just catch the two 'outbound' wires... the ones going to the high and low beams. They may be green and tan (that's their colors on newer GM... I'm not in front of a truck to look to verify right now).

Just cut these wires in two and use 2 relays.

green (from switch) to pin 86
green (to headlight) to pin 87
ground to pin 85
B+ (fused!!!) to 30

do the same on the second relay with the tan wire (or whatever color it turns out to be).

This will give you full headlight switch functionality and full current to the lights.

BTW, I realize auto parts stores hawk Bosch relays (or cheapie knockoffs) for upwards of $10 but you should be able to pick them up for less than half that from a nice installer at a stereo store. They cost @$2.00 each in medium quantities, and I used to get them for $1.50 in 100 lot. Bosch is the "standard" but Potter & Brumfeld look the same, are just as reliable, and are reated at 40 amps (Bosch is rated at 30)... even though you'll be pulling less with your headlights.

Kenneth
XXL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2002, 10:40 AM   #8
XXL
Seņor Member
 
XXL's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Edge of the world
Posts: 5,367
Just as an update, I did verify the wire colors--

light green = high beam
tan = low beam
med. blue = B+ coming from dash switch

So, if you want to use your factory switch and get plenty of current to your headlights, grab the wires between the floor kick switch and the fuse box (they're in a nice little bundle all by themselves), and do the relays as I described above.

I've also started to (slowly) create some wiring diagrams for such things and will be posting them on my site. Here's the first quickie I did of the floor kick switch. Nothing fancy yet.

Kenneth
Attached Images
 
XXL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2002, 11:42 AM   #9
Longhorn Man
its all about the +6 inches
 
Longhorn Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
Instead of tapping into it there inside the cab, you would be better off doing it up by the headlamps themselves. This way, there would be less full voltage wire to lose power in.
I plan on mounting mine under the battery tray on the drivers side. (I have daul batterys in the Longhorn)
Longhorn Man is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2002, 02:23 PM   #10
XXL
Seņor Member
 
XXL's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Edge of the world
Posts: 5,367
Quote:
Originally posted by longhornmail
Instead of tapping into it there inside the cab, you would be better off doing it up by the headlamps themselves. This way, there would be less full voltage wire to lose power in.
I plan on mounting mine under the battery tray on the drivers side. (I have daul batterys in the Longhorn)
Do whichever works for you. The voltage drop for the 6' distance difference is less than 1/10th of a volt (ASSuming 14 gauge). By putting it inside the cab, you keep your metal-to-metal connectors on the relays out of the weather.

Kenneth
XXL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2002, 03:58 PM   #11
Longhorn Man
its all about the +6 inches
 
Longhorn Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
Hmmm, good point on the weather thing...maybe I should rethink my mental schematics.
Longhorn Man is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2002, 03:51 AM   #12
jiggs
poker face
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
Posts: 218
One thing that might help is to replace the headlights you have with good quality ones from Hella. The cut of the lense has a lot to do with how much light gets to the ground in front of you. You can also get large round headlights with the removable halogen bulb similar to new cars molded headlights. With the Hellas and some high wattage bulbs (100w high/ 55w low) and relays you will see a lot of improvement.
__________________
If you could kick the person in the *ss responsible for most of your trouble, you wouldn't sit for a month.
jiggs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2002, 09:07 AM   #13
8mag
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: nampa idaho,usa
Posts: 92
how much improvement with stock headlamps.............
__________________
1972 3/4 4x4,14bolt locker rear, dana44 lock right front, sm465, sb 400, blazer tank,dual batterys,3"lift,32-9.00-16 super swampers
daily driver
other trucks
1972 1 ton dually 4x4,454 4 spd,,235-85-16, flat bed front and rear winches, rear gas tank and under bed gun safe.tilt wheel
8mag is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2002, 10:56 AM   #14
Longhorn Man
its all about the +6 inches
 
Longhorn Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
Well, by stock headlamps, lets just asume you have normal halogon lamps...most do. (my GMC only has one non-halogon)
The diffirance is considerable...just get in a newer car that still has the sealed beam lamps....The camaro of a few years ago...S-10 of a few years ago.
It really is quite a bit. At night you can always tell an old vehicle coming up the roat towards you, becouse the headlights are yellow...even orange. They will glow white with this upgrade.
Longhorn Man is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:23 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com