Turning it into a trailer

[CG]

Since I cant sell this and Im not going to just give it away, Ive decided to cut up this 68 3/4 ton 4x4 chassis and make it into a trailer. If you have done this before or know how to do it, can you mark on the pic or explain to me where I should cut so I can bring the rails together to add the tounge. Is there a correct length the rails need to be in front of the box? Im guessing a little bit longer would tow better...maybe?

Can I just leave the rear axle in there without doing anything to it? To make it a little bit lower Im thinking about putting the axle on top of the leafs...is that ok?

Thanks for any help.

[1969k10stepside]

I cant believe no one wants it.I would take you up on the offer if I was closer.Cant really help you on the trailer part....I know that 454_72_4x4 has done this with a old GMC Jimmy.You might drop him a pm

[CG]

Well basically it needs everything from front to rear. The only real thing it had going for it is that its a 50th anniversary truck with the matching vin, frame and build sheet. I will pm 454_72_4x4 and see if he can help me.

[jerry moss]

here's a pic of mine--it's a 2wd 3/4 ton leaf spring. took a wedge out on both sides right in front of the bed and bent it in at a 45 degree angle then at the tounge we cut a slice and bent it paralell to the bar used for the hitch. i can try taking a closeup if it'll help.

[CG]

Hey Jerry any chance you have an over head shot of that so I can get a better idea of how it went together up front?

[rage'nrat638]

heres the one i made i just cut v's in the frame small ones, close to the front of the bad and pulled the frame together.
welded the v's. stuck my 2 1/2 square stock steel in between the frame rails. and went to town welding..

stopped and got some extra plate steel for the top front and rear.. bought a 2 " tongue and bolted it and welded it place.

got me some chain the correct hook ends . welded a link to the frame..

bought a third leg..

hooked up the trailer light pig tail...

slapped on a few extra reflectors for safety..

painted it rustolium black

one last trip to the local dmv for a home made trailer title and plates..

used it for a year and sold it on e-bay for 1200.00

[CG]

Wow, excellent photos, thanks alot

Mark

[rage'nrat638]

no problem the trick is the 2 1/2 " square stock needs to be supported nice to hold the load.

with that plate it really ties things together.

you also mount a tool box on it..

the plate makes a great place for a spare tire too.
make a bracket and weld it to it. and get a couple studs and nuts to hold it in place.

leave your last cross member in there and butt the square stock up to it..

make it all flush to the top. so you can lay the plate on it..

[chosn 1]

i really think you should try selling that frame , and use the cash to buy 2 pcs 0f 2x6x .125 or .188 rect tube x13 or 14 ft long and a 3500 lb torflex axle with hubs in whtevr bolt pattern you want cause itll haul straighter , lighter and more safely and youll still have some cash in yr pocket i know cuz i recently sold a70 1/2 ton 4x4 frame and diffs only for 800 and the dude didnt even care that the frt diff had been sitting in the weeds atleast 10 yrs , it was full of rusty water and woudnt turn but if ya feel ya gotta cut it illgive ya the measurements

[jeffspower]

Here's two of mine. Both started out as '73 or newer C20 trucks. The one with the toolbox just has a '72 box on it. I like to make them with a long tongue- they trail better & are easier to back up.

I don't think you have the clearance to go axle over springs- at least not loaded or the axle would bottom out on the frame. If it isn't going to see much highway use, just leave the rear end alone. If you want it to pull easy at speed, cut the axle shafts off. If you do that, overfill the diff oil. If you don't, the wheel bearings could starve for oil- especially if it never gets tilted side/ side on hills.

[jerry moss]

CG,
mine was done like rage'nrat did his except i put a longer tounge made from 4x4 square thick wall tube. longer tounge makes it easier to back up and gave me room for the toolbox in front of the bed. the best part of mine is i'm only in it 75 bucks(the price of the bed itself), the rest was stuff i had laying around, leftovers from parted out trucks. if you still need the pics, i'll be happy to take some for you.

[CG]

I think all this info is perfect for what Im looking to do. Im not 100% sure on what to do with the rear end yet, but I believe if this is just a beat around trailer I should be ok with leaving the rear exactly like it is. Thanks for all the pics and info guys.

I tried to sell this several times with zero interest. If I hadn't decided to clean up my vehicle act I would have just stashed it. (and probably never have gotten to it).

[GMC Jim]

just a comment.... tongue length and axle placement should be calculated so that approx 10% of weight is supported by the hitch ball......

[jerry moss]

the rear end in mine is the old rockwell, i pulled the guts out of it, welded a plate over the open hole, sawed the axle shafts off to about 1 inch long, took the hub/drum assemblies to work and cut the drums off on the brake lathe, packed the bearings with grease, installed new seals and put it all together. welded on new spring pads and shock mounts---did that because i rotated the housing 90 degrees to gain ground clearance.

[CG]

Looks like there may be rules against running it without modding the rear end here in Washington state. I dont have the necessary tools or means to do it like Jerry did, so Im going to look for a trailer axle on craigs list.

[kwmech]

try this---I cut the front part of the frame before the frame rail starts to rise up. So in other words, I saved all of the level part and folded it in. When you pick up the fornt of the trailer empty. It is maybe 40-50 lbs. Balanced very well, so you have to make it a point to load forwad a little bit

[CG]

Originally Posted by jerry moss

the rear end in mine is the old rockwell, i pulled the guts out of it, welded a plate over the open hole, sawed the axle shafts off to about 1 inch long, took the hub/drum assemblies to work and cut the drums off on the brake lathe, packed the bearings with grease, installed new seals and put it all together. welded on new spring pads and shock mounts---did that because i rotated the housing 90 degrees to gain ground clearance.

Is there anyone in the NW that can do this for me? If so please PM me and tell me how much you would charge...

Thanks, Mark