71 K10 350 Engine Rebuild

[Barben]

The engine goes to the machine shop on Friday. Unless I need to replace it, I'll need to decide about cam, intake and carburator. The mostly stock 1971 K10 will be used for getting to the mountains then onto dirt/gravel/mild bolder paths. Sometimes pulling a small trailer. SM465/NP205. Front D44 has thicker axles. Rear axles are stock. Axle ratio is 3.73. Tires will be no more 33". Exhaust will be stock 2" or 2-1/2" rams horns. Summit shows a couple of cams optimized for 1000-3000 rpm. Can I stick with the stock intake and q-jet and be happy about performance. Suggestions regarding cam selection or other engine ideas?

[Burt4x4]

The Q-jet is your best choice for off-road carbs. they don't splash/flood as easy as most. I use to run a Edelbrock Q-jet for years and it worked great. As for the intake it wouldn't hurt to get something like Edelbrock Performer intake. WAY lighter than a stock intake and it can take in more air/fuel.
Good luck

[SoCal71K20]

With my '71 K20, I'm pretty happy with basic stock lower end short block with newer vortec heads, Edelbrock Performer intake and cam. Cam pulls pretty good from idle to 3000. I also run Hedman hedders. I'm having pretty good luck with Carter/Edelbrock carb but the Q jet is a very good choice also. Good luck.

[Barben]

Machine shop said I really had a 305 motor...but he has a 350 block for me. Flat top pistons, roller rockers and an RV cam going into it next week. I've found a rebuilt QJet. Whhich Performer should I track down? Also hunting for the exhaust system. I'm looking at corvette rams horn with 2-1/4 or 2-1/2 inch outlets. They're all over ebay. Other option are block hugger headers. Either choice is so I can leave the clutch linkage as-is. Thoughts?

[msgross]

I have the 2101 performer, didn't run it much yet but it's a lower RPM base model.

[glennhuff]

You should be able to get a Performer intake on Ebay for about $50, if you aren't afraid to clean it up yourself. You will be very happy with a properly rebuilt and setup Qjet. I think that the rams horn manifolds will be perfect for your rig. They give the engine a more mellow sound without the tinny rattle that headers give you, and they are much less likely to leak. Good luck.

glenn

[Barben]

Thanks for the help with the shopping list. To me, the intake manifold would be another part to stick in the bead blaster. Other than protecting the mating surfaces, are there other areas I should avoid? Other ways to clean it? It will most likely get the same Chevy orange paint as the rest of the engine.

[Americanrider]

Be double sure to check what you are getting on ebay. Make sure that the seller will refund $$ if he mis-represented an item. I bought a set of 2.5 inch ramhorns only to find they where 2 inch stock jobs. The seller measured the flanged outlet and not the true opening.... after a phone call he took them back & paid for return shipping. Buyer beware! The tape measure will not lie, only the person using it.

[Barben]

Engine comes home tomorrow as a 350 (.020 over) with 350 heads as it should be. Hope I don't regret saving $200 by not balancing it with the 305 crank. Don't want a hot rod, just something dependable without leaks or squeeks.

I think I have the fuel and compression figured out, now how about spark? Pointless HEI seems to be the ticket. The caps with integrated coils look bulky. It's been awhile since I've seen the cab and engine on the truck. Will these integrated distributors fit? What's the max diameter and height before it runs into the firewall?

[67/327]

hello Barben.
what exhaust manifold did you wind up using

[Olden Days]

Hey Barry, what machine shop did you use? On my 4x4 I am building I plan to use the the later HEI distributor . I haven't got it in yet but from what I read on here it will fit but be very close. Check out skip white on ebay for good deals on New HEI distributors. I got one from him for 44 bucks plus shipping.

[Barben]

Well...the engine has not made it home yet. And that's OK because I haven't had time to mess with it....

67 - Still looking for exhaust manifolds. Since the engine isn't mounted, I haven't committed. These are looking mighty interesting:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/3823...No=EXHAUST+RAM

As for the machine shop, I'm using a fellow in Livingston that I met through my daughter's volleyball club. I'll know about referring folks to him after I fire it up.

OD - Those HEI dizzies look like a bargain. We can always do some 'customization' of the firewall to get more clearance!

[msgross]

I used a big Mallory HEI on my K-10 and it fit with about 1/4" gap for the firwall. After I put new cab bushings on it should fit even better...

[Barben]

Gee. This takes a long time to get done....thanks for the help and advice. Most folks tell me how to build a dragster.

PickandPulled an HEI distributor from a 1979 Sport Van. Replaced the pickup coil after it turned to dust. Ebayed a new one for $16. 1974 Corvette plug wires fit like they should in the original places in holders from TruckShop.

Found some remakes of 2-1/2" 69ish Corvette rams horn manifolds. Cutoff wheel and grinder removed the the alternator brackets quite nicely. $180.
Performer 2101 manifold and rebuilt Roch QJet for a few 100s more.

Now wrestling with pulley alignment. I have 1975 Camaro/Nova block, short water pump, alternator and p/s. WP pulley doesn't align with the crank pulley. Misses by 3/16". WP pulley needs to move closer to the pump or the HB needs to stick out another 3/16". Anyone care to help?

Harm balancer = 7704H (Chevy dealership says this truck needs 6272222)
Crank pulley = 3923898 (cast iron, 2 grooves. Dealer says this correct)
Crank pulley = 3755820BC (stamped steel single groove. Current GM part.)
WP pulley = 3927797AF (Dealer says 3943061)