How does this carb and intake combo sound?

[85_SWB]

Well my dad asked me yesterday what I wanted for a graduation present and I figured it would be a good time to replace my cast iron intake and q-jet.
This is what I was thinking:
Edelbrock Performer 1406 600CFM
and
Edelbrock Performer EPS Intake
What do you guys think?

[ocbaud]

i think you would be much better off with the 650cfm edelbrock avs carb

other than that, your combo looks pretty good.

[Lated]

I've got the exact same setup sitting on my dinning room table. I'm waiting on a new radiator and need to get a cylinder head fixed before I put them on. I figure it's better to only drain the coolant once and get it all done. Let me know how the carb and intake work out if you decide to go with them.

Mine are going on a 305. I have a 350 that's going in the truck eventually but don't have the cash lying around to put the bottom end together

[benoit454]

I think it be a good choice.

I run the edelbrock 600 cfm man. choke vac. sec. on my monte carlo with a mild 350, and ran it on the fairly stock rebuilt 350 AND 305 in the black 86 4x4 we had.

[lurch115]

i'm running the 600 cfm manual choke edelbrock with a weiand stealth intake currently on my truck and love it...has plenty of low to mid range torque, and i don't even have the choke hooked up....give it 3 or 4 pumps and turn the key...fires EVERY time...doesn't matter if its 40 below zero or 90 degrees and humid...

[Pyrotechnic]

The Performer RPM Air Gap is a great all around intake if you can afford it, better than the non air gap version.

[boatpuller]

i'm running 1406 and an performer air gap.seems to be a good combo.does pretty well on fuel too.if you don't romp on it all the time.but hell,that ain't no fun.but at 3.30 something a gallon,i don't get as squirrley quite as often.

[piecesparts]

IF you are going to drive the truck ALL year around in Wisconsin, then I would stick with the Performer intake and stay away from the AIR GAP model. This will cause an icing problem in those cold winter days and you will be able to drive it, but it will be hard to get it running right. Check with the Edelbrock Tech line for this info. I am running the Thunder AVS carb and agree that the 650 CFM is better combo than the 600 CFM. I have run both and the AVS works better for me.

[Hoods69BadBowTie]

Sounds pretty good to me. Ia agree that the 650 CFM would be a better combo.

[85_SWB]

The 600cfm would be more fuel efficient right?
Thats kinda what im going for and i want to keep the price down.

Will i need any special brackets or adapters with this setup?

[68Stepbed]

I personally think a Holley 570 Street Avenger would be a better choice, but they're pricey. If you want to go with Edelbrock, the AVS series are a little better advance than the regular Performer series carbs. There won't be any signifigant differences in gas mileage between the 600 or 650 carbs.

The Edelbrock EPS intake is a good choice, especially like peicesparts said about those cold winter mornings in Wisconsin.

As far as special brackets, Lokar makes some excellent products that may benefit you. Check out their website and give them a call. www.lokar.com
The stock brackets may work OK, but without being there, I'm not sure. You'll have to try it and see.

[85_SWB]

Is this the carb you guys were talking about?
I just look at it as $275 for a new carb or $300 for a reman.

Edit: What is the difference between the two carbs?

[ocbaud]

Originally Posted by 85_SWB

Is this the carb you guys were talking about?
I just look at it as $275 for a new carb or $300 for a reman.

Edit: What is the difference between the two carbs?

i sent you a PM


the main differences that i'm aware of are that the avs carbs have the following:
tunable secondary air valve
dual fuel feed lines
and more flow

other than that i'm not sure on all the other diffences

[PhilaTruck]

What's wrong with your Q-jet?

[jimfulco]

If you want gas mileage and performance in the same package, keep the Quadrajet. If it's running bad because it's worn, get it rebuilt by a good carb shop. If it's the original carb, it's already calibrated for your engine, and a new carb will not be unless you're just really lucky. The Quadrajet will give you better throttle response, acceleration, and gas mileage than anything short of fuel injection. Spend your money on a cold air intake, posi, or something else useful.

[85_SWB]

Originally Posted by jimfulco

If you want gas mileage and performance in the same package, keep the Quadrajet. If it's running bad because it's worn, get it rebuilt by a good carb shop. If it's the original carb, it's already calibrated for your engine, and a new carb will not be unless you're just really lucky. The Quadrajet will give you better throttle response, acceleration, and gas mileage than anything short of fuel injection. Spend your money on a cold air intake, posi, or something else useful.

i got open element and posi already
im still kickin around the idea
the q-jet i have isnt the original.
in fact i was looking for a carb just to get the thing running and my neighbor gave this one to me for free. it seems to run decent. but i dont like the mechanical secondary. it seems that when i put it down to the floor it almost floods it. not enough to dog it out but it doesnt seem efficient.

[cliffsta]

I swapped from factory 2-barrel (Rochester M2MC) and intake to that exact combo... Eddybroke 1406 carburetor and 2701 EPS intake. It was incredible to go from the stock, worn out 2-barrel to a 600CFM 4-barrel and elliminate emissions. Gas mileage sucked, though. I went from ~12 MPG to 9-10. Best I ever got out of it was 11.... the last tank before my truck caught on fire.

Its probably a tad big for a 305, just MHO. Also, unless you're a whiz at electric choke setup, you might be better going with the manual choke version. I'm rather certain my fire was caused by the electric choke, however I was unable to prove it, and therefore did not seek any action.

ALSO (yes, there's an also), I'm not sure what shape your motor is in, but I betya good money my bent rod was related to shoving 600CFM of air/fuel through an alluminum intake into a tired 305. Granted, my motor hydrolocked, but I didn't bind on the starter for any time at all, and the truck ran for a good five minutes before that rod went south.

if you are confident in your motor's strength (It's a 305, it's probably not going to last much past 150,000), and you accept gas milage probably won't be much better than 12-14 (since you have 700R4), I say you should go for it. You seem like a mechanically inclined individual. It took us (two non-mechanics) an entire weekend plus a couple evenings to get right, so it is doable. Just sit down and decide if it is going to be worth the gain in performance, considering you're a highschool student.

Sorry if I seem so negative, I just feel like the beginning to the end of my truck days was putting that exact same combo on the exact same motor.

Best of luck whatever you decide.

[jimfulco]

Might just need some adjustment on the secondary air valve spring. Go to http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/drivetrain/myqjet.htm and scroll down to the second set of pictures for the adjustment procedure. Be sure you know how tight yours is before you loosen the lock screw. IIRC, my lock screw takes a 3/32" allen wrench.

If it's too loose, it will bog when you floor it, due to too much air too fast. If it's too tight, it can also act like a choke valve and flood the engine, causing a bog with lots of black smoke. Find the "sweet spot" and you'll like it better.

Any idea what the carb came from? Or the carb number (7 or 8 digits, found on the driver's side, near the middle, kinda on the outside front of the secondary barrel)?

[liljon285]

Im running a 670cfm holley and my truck runs pretty sweet and its a 305!

[85_SWB]

Originally Posted by jimfulco

Might just need some adjustment on the secondary air valve spring. Go to http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/drivetrain/myqjet.htm and scroll down to the second set of pictures for the adjustment procedure. Be sure you know how tight yours is before you loosen the lock screw. IIRC, my lock screw takes a 3/32" allen wrench.

If it's too loose, it will bog when you floor it, due to too much air too fast. If it's too tight, it can also act like a choke valve and flood the engine, causing a bog with lots of black smoke. Find the "sweet spot" and you'll like it better.

Any idea what the carb came from? Or the carb number (7 or 8 digits, found on the driver's side, near the middle, kinda on the outside front of the secondary barrel)?

not sure on the numbers but i will check tonight