Bolt broken need advice... - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Blaze69 · 12-12-2002, 08:39 AM

I opened my donor front diff this week and noticed that the bolt that holds the pin for the spider gears is broken off. The pin is still in there nice and tight. Is there anyway to get it out without tearing s#%t up? Should I even worry about it? I was looking to bolt it up within the week and need some advice.

694X4 · 12-12-2002, 09:09 AM

If it was me I would throw it in. If you could get it out with an ez out I would try to get it out. If it is tight I would say the only problem you will ever have is if you ever want to take it apart. Just don't break an ez out off in the bolt because they are harder steel then a drill bit so then you are screwed.

**1971Stepside** · 12-12-2002, 11:40 AM

I assume the broken off part did not go through the gears and shed some teeth. I wouldn't want to leave it that way, because it would fail at the most inopportune moment.

I hate getting broken bolts out, good luck.

JJR · 12-12-2002, 11:44 AM

If some threads are still left on the bolt you could probably run it as is but I would go ahead and replace it while it is out of the truck. Those bolts are notorious for breaking. I was all set to replace the axle seals in my 93 GMC until that bolt broke off about three threads deep. I called my friend who runs an auto shop and he said it was common and Snap-On had a kit to get the rest of the bolt out. The kit is basically a self centering drill bit (about 24 inchs long for easy access) and a easy out. I took it in and they had it out in no time. It did not cost much. I would call some of your local shops and see what they would charge you for removing it if you brought it out of the truck.

Blaze69 · 12-12-2002, 10:41 PM

How far does the bolt extend on either side of the pin? Right now it looks as if there is about 1/8-3/16" .

*Piston* · 12-12-2002, 11:17 PM

Yep those are a PITA once they break off. Although its fairly common, I'd say about 25% of the rear ends I deal with are either already broken or break when removing. The trouble is, to gain access to the broken part you have to remove the carrier but you can do that unless the axles are out, cant remove the axles until you remove the pin LOL!

2 methods... Alot of the time the pins break and are somewhat loose inside the carrier. Use a magnet to remove the pin if possible.

If the head is broken off and there are still threads remaining, you can use a scratch awl or pick to turn the bolt.

Last case senario- Take another carrier pin shaft and a large sledge and drive the pin about 1/2" forward. DO NOT drive it all the way through just yet, you want to remove the broken peices of the pin before turning the carrier back. This method does work but often ruins the large pin.... You'll be ordering a new retainer pin anyway so its no big deal. Alot of the time the pin snaps right off and you dont have to work at it much.

Blaze69 · 12-12-2002, 11:58 PM

From what I can tell, the broken end looks flat. No treads are visible, then again I don't know what the bolt looked like to begin with.
Now did I read you correctly, are you saying that the only way to remove the carrier is to take out the axles? I hope not.....LOL

If I do take another pin and bang out the old one, how will I get the old pin out? The other end of the bolt hole looks smaller.

*Piston* · 12-13-2002, 12:31 AM

Yep, to get the axles out you have to remove the main pin then slide the axles inward about 3/8" to remove the C-lock, then the axles will slide out. Cant remove that stuff till you get the pin out. lol vicous circle.

Once the main pin is driven back a bit, you'll be able to use a magnet and remove the remaining peices. I like the other idea of a drill/extractor but it would be tough to gain access since the carrier is recessed.

Blaze69 · 12-13-2002, 02:28 AM

Wholly cow, I finally hit 100

Thanks for the advice, I'll try some of those ideas when I get a chance.

**jerry moss** · 12-13-2002, 11:11 AM

if you're dealing with a dana 44 front axle, there are no c-clips. the axles slide in and out freely, the rear axles on semi floaters have c-clips(12 bolt and 10 bolt) the tool that JJR was talking about is the easiest way to get that little S.O.B. out. you can break it as said but if you miss once with the hammer and hit your hand you'll wish you had spent a few bucks on the correct tool,lol.

12-12-2002, 08:39 AM	#1
Blaze69 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Arizona Posts: 147	Bolt broken need advice... I opened my donor front diff this week and noticed that the bolt that holds the pin for the spider gears is broken off. The pin is still in there nice and tight. Is there anyway to get it out without tearing s#%t up? Should I even worry about it? I was looking to bolt it up within the week and need some advice. __________________ 1969 Blazer: 350/350, 4X4, HEI, Edlebrock carb/intake, dual flowmasters, np205, 3:07's and the rest is mostly stock. The front end disc swap is finally complete 2002 Z71 Tahoe. CAI, Flowmaster 40, Silverstars in high, low and fogs and a bunch of mods (upgrades) inside and out.

12-12-2002, 09:09 AM	#2
694X4 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: utica, oh, Posts: 249	If it was me I would throw it in. If you could get it out with an ez out I would try to get it out. If it is tight I would say the only problem you will ever have is if you ever want to take it apart. Just don't break an ez out off in the bolt because they are harder steel then a drill bit so then you are screwed. __________________ 69 3/4 ton 4x4 gmc with 6" sky jacker soft ride. 350 / th350 / 205 work in progress

12-12-2002, 11:40 AM	#3
1971Stepside Almost Satisfied Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Springfield, MO Posts: 2,932	I assume the broken off part did not go through the gears and shed some teeth. I wouldn't want to leave it that way, because it would fail at the most inopportune moment. I hate getting broken bolts out, good luck. __________________ 1971 C10 Stepside. LSx 6.0 with BTR Stage IV, Speed Engineering Headers, 4L80e transmission w/3200 Circle-D Stall. 3.73. Posi. Purchased this truck when I was 17. I started the rebuild (or take apart) in 1993. I have drug it around all over the country in pieces. Finally back on the road in 2021. "I can't complain, but sometimes I still do. Life's been good to me so far."

12-12-2002, 11:44 AM	#4
JJR Registered User Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Leesburg, GA Posts: 746	If some threads are still left on the bolt you could probably run it as is but I would go ahead and replace it while it is out of the truck. Those bolts are notorious for breaking. I was all set to replace the axle seals in my 93 GMC until that bolt broke off about three threads deep. I called my friend who runs an auto shop and he said it was common and Snap-On had a kit to get the rest of the bolt out. The kit is basically a self centering drill bit (about 24 inchs long for easy access) and a easy out. I took it in and they had it out in no time. It did not cost much. I would call some of your local shops and see what they would charge you for removing it if you brought it out of the truck. __________________ FOUNDING MEMBER OF THE DRUM BRAKE CLUB Second Owner 70 C-10 Second Owner 93 GMC C1500 Third Owner 99 C2500 Crew Cab Short Bed

12-12-2002, 10:41 PM	#5
Blaze69 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Arizona Posts: 147	How far does the bolt extend on either side of the pin? Right now it looks as if there is about 1/8-3/16" . __________________ 1969 Blazer: 350/350, 4X4, HEI, Edlebrock carb/intake, dual flowmasters, np205, 3:07's and the rest is mostly stock. The front end disc swap is finally complete 2002 Z71 Tahoe. CAI, Flowmaster 40, Silverstars in high, low and fogs and a bunch of mods (upgrades) inside and out.

12-12-2002, 11:17 PM	#6
Piston Account Suspended Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Olathe, KS Posts: 2,300	Yep those are a PITA once they break off. Although its fairly common, I'd say about 25% of the rear ends I deal with are either already broken or break when removing. The trouble is, to gain access to the broken part you have to remove the carrier but you can do that unless the axles are out, cant remove the axles until you remove the pin LOL! 2 methods... Alot of the time the pins break and are somewhat loose inside the carrier. Use a magnet to remove the pin if possible. If the head is broken off and there are still threads remaining, you can use a scratch awl or pick to turn the bolt. Last case senario- Take another carrier pin shaft and a large sledge and drive the pin about 1/2" forward. DO NOT drive it all the way through just yet, you want to remove the broken peices of the pin before turning the carrier back. This method does work but often ruins the large pin.... You'll be ordering a new retainer pin anyway so its no big deal. Alot of the time the pin snaps right off and you dont have to work at it much.

12-12-2002, 11:58 PM	#7
Blaze69 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Arizona Posts: 147	From what I can tell, the broken end looks flat. No treads are visible, then again I don't know what the bolt looked like to begin with. Now did I read you correctly, are you saying that the only way to remove the carrier is to take out the axles? I hope not.....LOL If I do take another pin and bang out the old one, how will I get the old pin out? The other end of the bolt hole looks smaller. __________________ 1969 Blazer: 350/350, 4X4, HEI, Edlebrock carb/intake, dual flowmasters, np205, 3:07's and the rest is mostly stock. The front end disc swap is finally complete 2002 Z71 Tahoe. CAI, Flowmaster 40, Silverstars in high, low and fogs and a bunch of mods (upgrades) inside and out.

12-13-2002, 12:31 AM	#8
Piston Account Suspended Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Olathe, KS Posts: 2,300	Yep, to get the axles out you have to remove the main pin then slide the axles inward about 3/8" to remove the C-lock, then the axles will slide out. Cant remove that stuff till you get the pin out. lol vicous circle. Once the main pin is driven back a bit, you'll be able to use a magnet and remove the remaining peices. I like the other idea of a drill/extractor but it would be tough to gain access since the carrier is recessed.

12-13-2002, 02:28 AM	#9
Blaze69 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Arizona Posts: 147	Wholly cow, I finally hit 100 Thanks for the advice, I'll try some of those ideas when I get a chance. __________________ 1969 Blazer: 350/350, 4X4, HEI, Edlebrock carb/intake, dual flowmasters, np205, 3:07's and the rest is mostly stock. The front end disc swap is finally complete 2002 Z71 Tahoe. CAI, Flowmaster 40, Silverstars in high, low and fogs and a bunch of mods (upgrades) inside and out.

12-13-2002, 11:11 AM	#10
jerry moss Born Psycho Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: brentwood,cal,usa Posts: 4,946	if you're dealing with a dana 44 front axle, there are no c-clips. the axles slide in and out freely, the rear axles on semi floaters have c-clips(12 bolt and 10 bolt) the tool that JJR was talking about is the easiest way to get that little S.O.B. out. you can break it as said but if you miss once with the hammer and hit your hand you'll wish you had spent a few bucks on the correct tool,lol. __________________ jerry moss 72 cheyenne super K20- tilt,tach,vacuum,speedwarning,buckets,shoulder belts,am/fm,tow hooks,bumper guards,toolbox,aux. fuel tank,posi front and rear,plus other goodies!!! SOLD 69 suburban K20-tilt,tach,vacuum,speedwarning,buckets,shoulder belts,am/fm,4 inch all spring lift,4 speed, 14 bolt full floater, dana 44 HD,warn winch,posi front and rear,tow hooks,plus other goodies. 73/80 chevy/gmc K20 SB400,turbo 400,205,tilt,a-c,gas hog. 77 K/5 cheyenne blazer-daily driver/beater. SON HAS IT NOW BRENTWOOD,CALIFORNIA

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