decisions decisions..........

[60ratrod]

so i have been planning a motor build. but i've been looking and trying to decide what motor i would like to build up on a sailor's buget. so here are some of my current thoughts of what i would like to build:

sbc 327: nice, old school, actually came in some of the models of the 60-66 chevy/gmc trucks, faster revving

sbc 350: good motors, blocks and parts abundant, easy in and out job(relatively speaking of coarse), but seeing way too many of them, that's why its not at the top of my list for motor build options, but still there as an option

sbc 383: awesome power, easier to do from a 400 block, makes the compatition slightly envious, but not really an option with current funds/income/motor build budget, sorry 383 enthusiasts

bbc 396/402: small big blocks, faster revving, old school style, was/were ss motor(s), not seen very often, down side of having to spend more time and money than what i have currently available for the sbc to bbc conversion but still would be friggen sweet though.

does anyone have any thoughts, comments/concerns, or oppinions as to which one i should build??

[fercho71]

go for the 350 ratrod like you said a lot of parts available i have it on my truck and run fine!!!!!

[ClassicAutoResto]

Find a good running 350 like I did, (84 49,000 orig miles) drive it and find a Big block. Work on the BB while you enjoy your truck, then when it's ready.......put that BB in over a weekend.......& unleash the hounds!!!!!

Jerry

[60ratrod]

i think i like jerry's idea. the 350 that's in my truck runs, but there is a slight knock that happens about 2500-3000 rpms, not really while accelerating, but more or less cruising. so the main reason for me wanting to build up another motor is that and i have no friggen idea as to what the current motor has. but i think its gonna be a while before i can start the build with my current deployment/detachment schedule. i am in the navy. the build prolly won't start till prolly the middle of next year

John

[ClassicAutoResto]

If that knock is at that rpm, and your engine is pre 75, try some lead substitute to the gas. I have to run it in my customers' vehicles when I return the completed cars or they are back in a day with the same knocking problem. I use it as a preventative now, with no call backs. Take care, Jerry

[60ratrod]

i dunno if my engine is pre 75 or not. all i know is that it deffinately ain't stock. i'm thinking that it's later than a 75 cause it has hei in cap coil style distributor in it. but the only true way for me to find out would be to look at the casting number and i don't know if i can do that while its in the truck. it is a chevy 350 after all. i'm used to fords. this is actually my first real chevy. i got it in trade for my 79 ranchero that i used to have

[Ham-er]

Classic just gave you another reason to use a 350. 327's were not made for unleaded gas! You could modify a 327 - new valve seats, vavle spinners etc. (more machine work and parts cost)! Hi

[NF65Fleetside]

Originally Posted by ClassicAutoResto

Find a good running 350 like I did, (84 49,000 orig miles) drive it and find a Big block. Work on the BB while you enjoy your truck, then when it's ready.......put that BB in over a weekend.......& unleash the hounds!!!!!

Jerry

What Jerry said, I dunno what a sailors budget is but 383 no matter how you look at it is deep pockets...hell of a motor but you will be spending some descent change on it. Im pretty sure on a tighter budget you can get a big block into your truck and putting out just the same or more power than the 383. I currently run a 350 (check my sig) and its gonna get twin turbo treatment in 6months or sooner....but if the fab guy lags then Im dumping the money into a big block and purchasing all the hop-up parts.

[Brad54]

I just went through the exact same situation with my '62 Suburban. I've had the truck for a year and a half, and put over 20,000 miles on the tired 283 (granny 4 speed and 4.11 gears!)

My requirements: better mileage, occaisonal towing, daily driving.

I went with the GMGoodwrench 250hp/305tq 350 crate engine. This is their bottom level engine...the next one up makes about 50 more hp, and from what I can tell the only difference is the cam. Engine comes with a 3 year, 100,000 mile warranty. GM is discontinuing this engine, so I was able to get it at dealer cost of $1,300 and change. I see them advertised everywhere for $1,400 and change. Add your intake, distributor, water pump, balancer and dip stick tube. And all the other nickel and dime things you forget about!

Now, I'm doing a couple things interesting that you might like, since you mentioned the 327: I bought a set of chrome 327 valve covers (with no breather), and an old Edelbrock C3B intake, with the oil fill tube. I added my own PCV vent port to the back of the intake (a piece of 1/2-in aluminum tube, and an aluminum baffle under the intake, both welded in place), and plumbed the oil fil tube (closed cap) like the '62 PCV system that was originally on the truck. For just a little more oomph, I put on a 1-inch 4-hole carb spacer and an Edelbrock 600cfm carb (with the big red Edelbrock name take cut off it so it just looks like an AFB-type carb). I capped it with a spun aluminum, drop-base open element air filter from Speedway--it's like a metal version of the K&N Flow Control air cleaner...it makes power by cleaning up the airflow and directing down into the carb. I welded a short aluminum tube to the bottom of the air cleaner base and use that for the PCV port on the back of the intake. I finished it with a '62 283 glass bowl fuel filter mounted above the intake with the hard line going from the fuel pump to carb, 350-horse 327 sticker on the air cleaner lid and Rams horn exhaust manifolds. Doesn't look exactly correct, but it all has a very retro, familiar look and feel to it. I left the engine black, with a black fill tube and chrome cap, the chrome valve covers, and a chrome water pump pulley for a little contrast. The intake, thermostat housing, air cleaner lid, fuel filter housing and fuel pump are raw aluminum.

Should be absolutely perfect for what I want. Once I've been driving it a while, I'll swap in stamped 1.6 rocker arms, and a while after that I may do a cam swap...but probably not. It's the family Truckster and my daily driver, so what I have should be just dandy. I don't really need huge power--just some decent grunt and reliability.

Your results may vary.

-Brad

[60ratrod]

that's some great info. i basically make around $1400-ish a month(a good month that is), so 383 is almost out of the question. but i think what i am going to do for the time being is get a comp cams magnum 280h grind cam, some cast iron GM Performance bowtie heads and get them fully ported and polished, and an Edelbrock rpm air gap intake manifold, but i wish that i had the cash for some tri-y headers. from what i have seen they produce the best power. Hey Brad, I have some 1.6 stamped steel roller rockers if you are interested. the only thing is they are for a 7/16" stud. i ordered the wrong size and have them just sitting around. shoot me a pm if you are interested. oh and i just thought of this, Fleetside if you are going to go the supercharger route make sure that you're running about 7:1 compression or you'll toast that motor.