How much coil to cut? Please help!

[jkaylor68gmc]

I need to lower the front of my project this afternoon abd I am cutting a coil.Rumor is 1/2 a coil is 1-inch. Please help, Is this true???????

[AlienYouth]

thats what they told me, cause i'm doin the same thing. i got a question though, how do you get your spring off the truck? i have a spring compressor, but i had to ghetto rig a spacer thing to get it to work, and it's still a pain in the butt, is there a better way to get it off?

[jkaylor68gmc]

For the front? Just place a floor jack beneath the lower control arm and remove the lower spindle nut, shock bolt and tie rod end. Apply pressure to the control arm and hit the side of it with a good hammer downward on the control arm. Slowly lower the jack and hit it, allowing the jack to drop a llitle at a time until the compression is off the spring. pretty easy.

Thanks for the info.

[jorgensensc]

Originally Posted by jkaylor68gmc

For the front? Just place a floor jack beneath the lower control arm and remove the lower spindle nut, shock bolt and tie rod end. Apply pressure to the control arm and hit the side of it with a good hammer downward on the control arm. Slowly lower the jack and hit it, allowing the jack to drop a llitle at a time until the compression is off the spring. pretty easy.

Thanks for the info.

I run an allthread through the spring with washers to release preassure. you could also run a chain through the spring and attach it to the arm. I beg you to use some type of safettcatch for the spring. If it gets crooked it could come out and KILL YOU INSTANTLY! Make sure the spring is connected to something so if it lets go you won't die!!
Shawn

[Scott68-93-97]

1/2 coil is generally a half inch every spring is different but 95% of the time it is true, my buddy cut his on his 71 and this rule did work, every 1/2 coil or inch it increases the spring rate by 10%

[jkaylor68gmc]

ttt for help

[AlienYouth]

when i asked, every1 that replied said 2 inches per coil, thanks for the tip, ill try that... i'll just make sure not to get my face in the way, jorgen : )

[jkaylor68gmc]

Thanks AlienYouth, I appreciate it, guess I'll try it when I get home and swap out the old control arms for the new ones I just recieved.

[70short]

I have started this. I am going to cut 1 coil (@2") put it back together and drive it, see what it looks like. I am using the procedure in FAQ to drop the lower A Arms. Backing the ball joint nut off and lube it then BFH. Worked for the left side however the right side wont give it up. Any other ideas other than spray A lot of lube and let sit over night??? Sorry I didn't mean to high jack the thread.

[jkaylor68gmc]

Did you remove the tie-rods, I have done this before. Hit the crap out of it.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 70short

I have started this. I am going to cut 1 coil (@2") put it back together and drive it, see what it looks like. I am using the procedure in FAQ to drop the lower A Arms. Backing the ball joint nut off and lube it then BFH. Worked for the left side however the right side wont give it up. Any other ideas other than spray A lot of lube and let sit over night??? Sorry I didn't mean to high jack the thread.

Upgrade from a small BFH to a BIG BFH. That usually does the trick for me.

[jkaylor68gmc]

exactly.

[Scott68-93-97]

Find a big a$$ socket that fits over it to sit on the ground and use a really big BFH

[70short]

I have been beating the crap out of the spindle it will not let loose. 4lb sledge and brass drift. What would be the issue of removing the top A-ARM and pulling the spring? Putting everything back together. The top A-ARM did let loose, however I have not removed it yet?

[jkaylor68gmc]

Are you changing the ball joints, if so, slowly let down the control arm, remove the spring and castle nut and wallop the ball joint.
I couldn't get mine loose either but since I am changing the parts I nailed the ball joint and it came right out. An YES 1/2 - 1-inch

[70short]

I do not plan on changing my ball joint.

[glock35ipsc]

If you don't want to replace the ball joint, do this. The way I've always done it is to loosen the nut on the lower ball joint, and let the lower control arm hang down with the spring in place. Get a really BFH and snack the spindle right where the ball joint studs sticks in. Don't use a large punch or drift, you will never get the energy needed put on the spindle. The spring pressure will pop the ball joint out after two or three GOOD whacks.

If you want a warm fuzzy when pulling the spring, run a chain through the center of the spring and down through the bottom of the control arm. Then pull the ends together somewhat tight and bolt them together. But I've never seen a need to do it on these trucks, they are fully extended after lowering the control arms a very little bit.

When popping a tie rod end, position (or steer) the spindle so that when you apply the really BFH, your blow if directed in a straight line from the outer part of the knuckle (where the rod end fit the spindle) to a imaginary line running from the upper ball joint stud through the lower. The spindle will have less of a chance to want to "turn" when you hit it, thereby taking all the force of the blow where it needs to be.

I have yet to need a pickle fork, or heat, or ???? to break free a ball joint, tie rod, idler arm, etc. Even easier than a BFH is a healthy air hammer with a blank punch.

[70short]

Thank You for the reply!!

[724x4a/cchevy]

Sounds like you all need a pickle fork...at least thats what i have heard them called before. Its a forked wedge that you slide in between the ball joint and the a-arm. Helps to separate them.
Justin

[glock35ipsc]

Pickle forks can tear the boot on the ball joint. All the wrenching I did in my past life was suspension and alignments. I've never owned or needed a pickle fork.

This is my tie rod/ball joint removal tool. Same thing, but mine is 19 years old! 52 oz dead blow ball peen.

[sneakysnake]

One other option.Support the truck, place another jack under the pivot rod on the lower A arm. Remove the two U bolts and lower the assembly, this also saves the balljoints.


The springs have a place to sit in the lower A arm and a place in the cross member. Cutting only half a loop will make the spring sit funny so I recommend cutting complete loops and in line with the old end.

[jb4short]

Josh- I told you that was crazy....running threaded rod through is an excellent way to release the pressure slowly and minimize the risk of DEATH

[70short]

Who is Josh?

[glock35ipsc]

Originally Posted by 70short

Who is Josh?

Josh = jkaylor68gmc

[mexgrhd68]

Originally Posted by sneakysnake

One other option.Support the truck, place another jack under the pivot rod on the lower A arm. Remove the two U bolts and lower the assembly, this also saves the balljoints.


The springs have a place to sit in the lower A arm and a place in the cross member. Cutting only half a loop will make the spring sit funny so I recommend cutting complete loops and in line with the old end.

YES, FULL LOOPS ONLY!!