Car 4spd Shifter Ideas?

[special-K]

What have you all with 4spds done to keep the shifter out of the seat?I`m bringong an M22 home today.After going through it I`ll mount it and the fresh 327 in the frame so I can mount the cab.Man...just typing that gets me stoked.It`ll be a long haul getting this done.But,a cab-on-frame starts looking like a truck.There`s more to it,I guess.I want to get exhaust run while it`s just a rolling frame so it can be cut through the trailing arm crossmember.But,a motor/trans set-up is some major progress,anyway.

[67-72williso]

I had one in a low hump truck. The bellhousing was in the 6 banger position, the small block was cloes the the firewall. I used buckets and mounted the console back enought to clear it.
Willis

[cdowns]

the easy way is to just make a new shifter handle they only bolt on with 2bolts // i 've used thin plywood to fool around makin a template then once you've got a height and geometry that clears everything and feels good trace on to 1/4inch plate weld a piece of threaded rod for shifter knob then either paint powdercoat or if budget allows chrome it

[special-K]

That`s what I`m considering.I`ll get dimensions once mounted in frame and use body perches for reference.I know guys just reverse the car shifters.But,that`s a bit funky for me.Hurst sells all kinds of levers.I wonder if a straight one would work out.I have a taller truck lever from a "His,n,Hers" set-up that just curves near the top.It`s pitted pretty bad,but can use for a mock-up,too.I want good throw action or I`d go the tall stick with mower piston or skull for something funky.I guess I can just grab the neck and choke it,lol.

[herb101]

I've seen some pretty odd shifter set-ups. In some I've seen setup to work with a bench seat, the handle is a C shape with the knob pretty much directly above the mount, but the handle goes forward first, then turns up, then turns back toward the rear for the handle. Something like that with a taller vertical section may work.

The plywood mockup idea is an awesome one! If you fab you own, remember that is does not have to be flat - you can bend it or twist it toward the driver.

Herb

[Walts_restoration]

55-57 chevy bench seat shifter, thats the one i have heard works.

[herb101]

Originally Posted by Walts_restoration

55-57 chevy bench seat shifter, thats the one i have heard works.

That's the one! Here's a quote from Hurst's FAQ site:

"I'm trying to install a Hurst shifter into my '55-57 Chevy, but it seems like the stick is going to be under the bench seat.
For '55-57 Chevys, Hurst uses a special stick shaped like a large "C" to clear the original bench seat. Due to the extreme angle that the stick comes out of the mechanism, it was not possible to make it a bolt-on stick. It is welded into the mechanism, like the 65-70 Mustang shifter. The stick is not available separately, and can only be ordered with the shifter under part #391-3780."

There is a picture of it in this pdf: http://www.lowridertechnology.com/im...l_shifters.pdf

Herb

BTW - I'd have sworn I saw it as a separate stick - maybe it was seen during a shifter rebuild. With the extra height of the truck, you could possibly make it a bolt-on.

[gotchevys?]

Yeah, my dad bought a hurst for his 55. Now he has decided to go with buckets so he told me I could us ehis shifter if it will work. Its still brand new in the box. I'm still a little ways from needing it though.

[see ten]

How about this un?





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[ChevLoRay]

I bought a Hurst Indy shifter for an '81 El Camino, and had to change the stick because it would hit the seat of the Elky. But, I still have the stick, and it's about 6-inches long, not counting the knob. It straight, bolts on and (best part) you can have it for the shipping from 72015.

[Classic Bowties]

Special, I have always loved the look and feel of the original type 64-67 chevy muncie shifters and handles, there are atleast 6 different (due to console/no console/bench seat/big car/small car variations) shaped muncie shift handles that I have seen and or had over the years. Along with the 67-72 trucks, it is 61-64 impalas that take up the rest of my available time . Fyi, if you find a orginal muncie shifter body and shift rods out of chevelle or nova it will have the shorter rods allowing it to be mounted on the trans case in the forward position and farther away from the seat, if you find one out of a impala/big car it will have the longer shift rods and sit closer to the seat once mounted, and it will also need the relocation bracket for mounting the shifter to the trans case in the aft location. Here is a pic of three different handles I have now to maybe give you some ideas, the last pic is of the handle I like the best. It is mounted in and original to this 64 impala w/factory 300hp 327 4 speed and a bench seat, she belongs to my dad. I also added to your WTB thread for the manual crossmember on the parts board. Have fun with your project, Cb

[corn]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HURST...QQcmdZViewItem

[special-K]

Great info,all.I love the feel of the hurst/4-on-the-floor set-up.This shifter was for a`71 El Camino.I got the aluminum V8 bell housing,so I don`t need to change crossmembers.

[special-K]

I wonder why a straight stick wouldn`t work.It seems the 55-57 car shifter ends up with the nob over the base and our seat tops are father up from the trans.

[special-K]

ttt for more 1st hand experience.Or,should I say right hand experience?

[Jim_PA]

Hurst makes a shifter and install kit for chevy trucks; I think the install kit is the big difference because it includes a mount that puts the shifter farther front on the trans. My engine is in the more forward mounting holes in the frame. Here's mine with a super t-10 (I'm sure a muncie would end up the same) It's in first then second gear... I've considered going with a straighter stick, but first would move way up with a straighter stick.

[special-K]

There ya go!I have the buddy buckets.Do you think that later seat sits about the same height and same position at the front?I guess if it`s made for these it`ll work.Do you have a part#?

[Jim_PA]

shifter is 391-0002
install kit looks to be 373-7834 for an m22

I got mine from a shop in New Jersey (streetwise performance). The shifter and linkages were new, the stick was used for about $225. To buy it new, it's about 350. I also got my super t-10 rebuild kit from them. Seem to be very good people to work with, and they were familiar with a truck install. Their 4-speed guru seems to be very knowledgable.

I used the factory mounting holes for the front of the seat. The back of the seat doesn't quite reach the rear hump, so it sits down in the back, which is better for me, since it leans me back a bit to clear my long legs. I would imagine that the factory seat would sit about the same in the front as mine does.

[special-K]

Thanks alot Jim.Jeez!That much just for a shift handle?They must have bumped their head.I know shifter/levers went throgh the roof thanks to investors deciding the like muscle cars,but that`s insane.The shifter kick costs that much with a lever already,but just a lever for over $300?I have one like that from my "His,n,Hers" that I doubt cost more than $25.I know that was awhile ago.That was when you could buy a used 4spd for $100-300 all day long when these "investors" were driving Corrollas.I could have a custom-made one made for 1/2 that,I`m sure.
Sorry about the rant.You get good info only to find what a rip-off what you want is.Who would pay over $600 just for the shifter/lever?I thought I was nuts!!
I have a guy in Lansdown,PA that my kit came from that rebuilds them.I`ll check with him on a shifter set-up.Thanks again for the numbers.

[Jim_PA]

Originally Posted by special-K

Thanks alot Jim.Jeez!That much just for a shift handle?They must have bumped their head.I know shifter/levers went throgh the roof thanks to investors deciding the like muscle cars,but that`s insane.The shifter kick costs that much with a lever already,but just a lever for over $300?I have one like that from my "His,n,Hers" that I doubt cost more than $25.I know that was awhile ago.That was when you could buy a used 4spd for $100-300 all day long when these "investors" were driving Corrollas.I could have a custom-made one made for 1/2 that,I`m sure.
Sorry about the rant.You get good info only to find what a rip-off what you want is.Who would pay over $600 just for the shifter/lever?I thought I was nuts!!
I have a guy in Lansdown,PA that my kit came from that rebuilds them.I`ll check with him on a shifter set-up.Thanks again for the numbers.

No, it isn't that much for the handle. The shifter mechanism (competition plus) is the expensive part, and they do make a difference in shifting.

[gotchevys?]

Originally Posted by Jim_PA

shifter is 391-0002
install kit looks to be 373-7834 for an m22

I got mine from a shop in New Jersey (streetwise performance). The shifter and linkages were new, the stick was used for about $225. To buy it new, it's about 350. I also got my super t-10 rebuild kit from them. Seem to be very good people to work with, and they were familiar with a truck install. Their 4-speed guru seems to be very knowledgable.

I used the factory mounting holes for the front of the seat. The back of the seat doesn't quite reach the rear hump, so it sits down in the back, which is better for me, since it leans me back a bit to clear my long legs. I would imagine that the factory seat would sit about the same in the front as mine does.

Jeg's has both of these parts numbers listed.

391-0002
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...-0002&x=11&y=4

373-7834
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...-7834&x=20&y=6

If nothin else, give Hurst a call and see what they tell ya.

[special-K]

OK,shew!!I knew shifters were over $300 complete.