|
11-03-2007, 01:26 PM
|
#1 |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Newton
Posts: 174
|
motor mounts
I need to change front freeze plugs behind motor mounts. How hard are motor mounts to remove and best place to buy new ones. It has originaal mounts 1972 gmc 350. thanks
|
|
|
|
11-03-2007, 01:55 PM
|
#2 |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: north carolina
Posts: 470
|
Re: motor mounts
if you are looking for the rubber part go to napa they should have it.
|
|
|
|
|
11-03-2007, 02:08 PM
|
#3 | |
|
Registered User
 Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Groton, CT
Posts: 168
|
Re: motor mounts
The mounts are easy to remove. A bit of liquid wrench ahead of time and a cherry picker to support the engine once everything is loose. Liquid wrench both the left and right side bolts that go thru the frame mount and the motor mount to ensure you can easily extract it. Then put a little tension on the engine, loosen the long bolts and remove. The bolts that hold the mount to the engine should be easy to remove.
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
11-03-2007, 02:13 PM
|
#4 |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Newton
Posts: 174
|
Re: motor mounts
I dont have cherry picker can i use block under oil pan and jack it up enough you think?
|
|
|
|
|
11-03-2007, 02:31 PM
|
#5 |
|
Jamie Hyneman is my twin
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: La Junta, Colorado
Posts: 705
|
Re: motor mounts
I replaced two plugs the way you are thinking. Jack under the oil pan, I loosly attached one engine mount at a time. This way I could get the block to shift and give me more room on the side I was working. I took out the engine stand as well as the mount.
Then I pushed the old freeze plug into the block with an air chisel and grabbed it with some vice-grips and pulled it back out. If your front plugs are rotten, then replace all four of the lower plugs. The front two rot out first, but as soon as you pressure up the coolant system, the rear ones will leak. You are already under there doing the work, just get it all done at once.
__________________
Justin SOLD 1967 K10 Fleetside, 283, Front and Rear Posi SOLD Color Wiring Diagrams Now in High Resolution V8 and Cab and Cab and Chassis |
|
|
|
|
11-03-2007, 02:37 PM
|
#6 |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Newton
Posts: 174
|
Re: motor mounts
Havent bought new mounts yet I guess they are one piece they look that way at Advance anyway.Is the engine stand part of engine mount? thanks
|
|
|
|
|
11-03-2007, 05:20 PM
|
#7 |
|
Jamie Hyneman is my twin
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: La Junta, Colorado
Posts: 705
|
Re: motor mounts
The stand is the piece of metal between the mount and the frame/cross member. Comes out with three more bolts. Gives you lots more room for the job you want to do.
__________________
Justin SOLD 1967 K10 Fleetside, 283, Front and Rear Posi SOLD Color Wiring Diagrams Now in High Resolution V8 and Cab and Cab and Chassis |
|
|
|
|
11-03-2007, 09:06 PM
|
#8 |
|
Watch out for your cornhole !
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Azle, Texas
Posts: 14,162
|
Re: motor mounts
Use a block of wood and a jack under the oil pan. A cherry picker is a pain in the balls on this job. You're underneath there working, the last thing you want is those legs on the hoist in your way under there too.
__________________
I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin |
|
|
|
|
11-03-2007, 09:12 PM
|
#9 |
|
Eat My Rust
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Cypress, Texas
Posts: 3,362
|
Re: motor mounts
NAPA has the mounts for cheap if you need them. They got mine in, in about 2 days. No more then $10 spent on both IIRC
|
|
|
|
 |
| Bookmarks |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
Linear Mode
