What to look for in a new purchase

[vacca rabite]

Hi all.

I am in the market for a pre-1974 3/4 or 1 ton pickup. I have not made up my mind on Chevy vs Dodge, but all the fords that i have seen have had some pretty serious issues that have made them a third choice.

The truck would be part toy, and part work. Probably driven under 5K miles a year. Its work duties would include hauling wood, topsoil and muclh, and trailor towing. For toy, well, I like old vehicles.

However, I am only allowed one project at a time, and right now its a '76 VW/Porsche 914. So anyhting I buy has to be running and not a rust pile.

My first question is, what should I be looking for? What is more desirable, and what is less desirable. 4X4 would be nice, but it not a deal breaker (and would be going well into the toy realm, rather then the work realm). Where are the rust areas that I should be sure to look for.

Thanks,

Zach

[classicchev]

Quality of the cab, rust in other words. Check all the unusual spots like drip rails, firewall seams, up under the dash where the widow leaks always end up. There are so many parts availble for these trucks that the upper portion of the cab is the only non reproduced part.

Good luck on the search, and welcome to the board from Alberta.

Darren

[Zonaman]

I don't think you can beat GM for availability of parts. It's easy to take a GMC or Chevy in any direction you want- classic restored, retro-mod, street rod... There's every part you can imagine and some you couldn't. Dodge? I don't know.

Some of the more expensive items to add on:

• Upgrade to disc brakes
• Air conditioning (if you get a non-A/C truck)
• Convert to overdirve (if you have an automatic)
• Tilt sterring wheel

These are nice to already have. Watch for rust in the rocker panels and cab corners. If the hood sits up a bit next to the cowel vent- new hinges. Carpted kick panels often mean big holes where the speakers used to be. Weathered caulking in the drip rails and cab seal are likely to cause cab leaks. The rear windshield tends to be a source of leaking too. I believe long bed body panels are difficult to find as well.

Good hunting!

[Palf70Step]

Dodge or Chevy, watch for Rust. Both were built with all kinds of places for crud to hide and fester corrision, especially in the land of rust (PA...I know I'm from there).

You will definitely find i easier to get parts for a Chevy/GM that you will a Dodge. IMO, post 74 Dodge were far from classic lookin...kinda like my ex----fugly

[krue]

IMO pre 74 dodge's are fugly too.
Back to what to look for....if there is carpet in the truck check the sill/rocker panel area closely, check were the kick panel and floor board meet. Check the drip rail over the doors and windshield. Check all around the windshield.
In general buy the best truck you can afford to start with, it's cheaper in the long run. If you have to "settle" then decide which you would rather do, body work or mechanical work. If you would rather do mechanical (like me) then find the body in the best shape. Good luck and happy hunting.

[Longhorn Man]

Zach, if your budjet allows for a good amount for a purchace price, I say don't even look in your state for a project/toy/driver.
We both know what A-holes your state is run by, a single rust hole in the gloor of your bed will prevent it from getting your inspection sticker. As bogus as that whole concept is... you have to deal with it none-the-less.
If you were to shop out west, even something that they consider a rusted out turd, would be virgin sheet metal for you or me. Yes, you'll spend 1200 (less if you are carefull) to get it here from Nevada.. or where ever, but.... 1200 bucks doesn't cover jack when it comes to panel replacement.
With that being said, I would not exclude the Fords... but, as pointed out, the Dodges from that era are butt ugly, and scarece. The Fords from 67 - 72 were aeautifll trucks, and overlooking there front suspention (inbred) design, are fine machines.
You'll have plenty of people here tellin you where to look on GM trucks, on the Fords, the real important place to look is on the firewall, innerfenderwell areas, and then the sheet metal, which down south, actually seems to hold up better than the GMs. If you get lucky and locate a 4X4, then ignore the front end comments.
This site ( www.rustfreeclassics.com ) ususally has some neat vehicles. They bring them mostly from so-cal and arizona, and get them less than 1000 miles from you. There prices aren't too bad in todays market when you consider they provide a service... not just a product. If you look there right now, they have a few 4X4 Gm trucks, and a handfull of the fords, but nothing 72 or older.

This 78 ford is VERy nice...but the price is a bit high IMO.

This GMC is 1/2 the price, and a bit rougher, but still very nice...esp by our rust belt standards.


And right inbetween the two, is a real sharp chevy. Install the correct rims, or aftermarket rims, and this would be a bad ass lookin rig IMO.

[msgross]

If you have never had a 4WD it doesn't hurt to take a buddy along for a little inspection and to play with the transfer case. Watch out for "full-time" 4WD. My 79 Blazer had that (no lock out hubs) and I would rather have full control myself. good luck....rust free is that way to go, spend the money now to save it in the future!

[vacca rabite]

Hey guys, thanks for the quick responces.

I know that rust sucks. I am dealing with that on the 914. Almost have it all cleared out. If there is anything more that I need to look for let me know. I will keep everyone in mind on what I find.

Zach

[stumpy]

So, it sounds like rust is the biggest concern.

Hi, I'm heading west of Saint Lou to pick up this pickup ... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...188914498&rd=1

My plans are for a streetable weekend warrior. Nothing special like a show truck. Something like a shop truck, from A to B and have some fun. Perhaps use it to tow the race car.

Given that it's a 67, what are some of the worst things that I should be on the lookout for?

Mechanical issues?
Body concerns?

[dave2953]

Looks like a pretty decent score especially for a truck with a big block.

[Johns72C10]

vacca rabite,
Shop around there are still nice trucks on the East coast. Grant it the trucks out west have less rust and are cheaper but I recently found a rustfree all original, garage-kept trunk in Pittsburgh for a good price. Hopefully my pics are attached

[Longhorn Man]

Stu,py dug through a LOT of posts to find this. The post is over a year old, and the poster musta gone with a dodge or ford since he hasn't been around since then either.

[stumpy]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

Stu,py dug through a LOT of posts to find this. The post is over a year old, and the poster musta gone with a dodge or ford since he hasn't been around since then either.

Yea, sorry if that was wrong. I did a search first and this seemed the most relevant to my question, tho in a way it really doesn't matter. I'm not driving 1,000 miles each way and not getting this thing. The seller says the floors and bed are solid and there's very little rust, so I expect it to be worth the drive. At the very least, the engine is worth the deposit plus gas money.

I'll post once I get it home and have a chance to look it over a good bit. Thanks anyway. Lots of great info here. I'm glad I found this place!