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Old 12-13-2007, 08:13 PM   #1
wibilly
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crossmember swap-drop

in preperation formy next truck project i pulled the front crossmember from a 79 gmc. the project truck is a 67 short fleet and will be droped. i was thinking spindels and springs. then i got thinking some more, why not just open up the cross member and drop the frame into it? this lead to more thinking. moter mounts- easy fix. then theres the drag link and tie rods. i don't have the frame in the shop yet to get a look at how this would work out. my ?is has anyone done this and what problems does it present?
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Old 12-14-2007, 01:55 AM   #2
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Re: crossmember swap-drop

Check in the suspension forum. Many have done this- XXL and CaptKaos are two that come to mind...
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Old 12-14-2007, 02:03 PM   #3
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Re: crossmember swap-drop

thank you gringoloco
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Old 12-14-2007, 05:18 PM   #4
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Re: crossmember swap-drop

Search for 'crossmember notch' or 'crossmember drop' & check out this thread . ..... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ad.php?t=60649 ....
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.

Last edited by SCOTI; 12-14-2007 at 05:20 PM.
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Old 12-14-2007, 07:20 PM   #5
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Re: crossmember swap-drop

thanks scoti i read the firs 8 pages so far i'm not looking to lay frame or nothing i'm just looking for a cheap way to get a couple inches without altering suspention geoetry
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Old 12-14-2007, 07:30 PM   #6
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Re: crossmember swap-drop

It can be done, but it requires a few mods other than the crossmember.
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Old 12-15-2007, 04:32 AM   #7
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Re: crossmember swap-drop

Quote:
Originally Posted by wibilly View Post
thanks scoti i read the firs 8 pages so far i'm not looking to lay frame or nothing i'm just looking for a cheap way to get a couple inches without altering suspention geoetry
It took more clearancing on mine than what XXL had to do on his (keep this in mind).
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 12-15-2007, 06:52 AM   #8
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Re: crossmember swap-drop

at first glance i thought it would be a cheap easy way to get a few inches, but it looks like it would be easier to z the frame
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Old 12-15-2007, 09:55 AM   #9
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Re: crossmember swap-drop

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Originally Posted by wibilly View Post
at first glance i thought it would be a cheap easy way to get a few inches, but it looks like it would be easier to z the frame
If you're looking for more than 1" ~ 1.5". . . ..... yes, it would be better to 'Z'.
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 12-15-2007, 02:05 PM   #10
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Re: crossmember swap-drop

can i drop the frame into the crossmember 1-1.5" without any stearing or other major isues
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Old 12-15-2007, 02:37 PM   #11
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Re: crossmember swap-drop

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Originally Posted by wibilly View Post
can i drop the frame into the crossmember 1-1.5" without any stearing or other major isues
Some have gone the 1.5" amount w/o issue (the crossmember that CaptKaos did for XXL).

My truck (68 crossmember (EDIT: It's actually a 73-up crossmember after thinking about it a little longer), stock 68 manual steering box, stock 68 manual pitman arm, Moog brand tie-rods for 73-up, factory 71-72 drag-link, 73-up Bell-Tech drop spindles) would not allow a 1.5" drop w/o removing the majority of the 'outside' portion of the u-bolts that hold the lower a-arm in place.

I had read the max was 1.5" so my plan was to be conservative & only go 1 3/8"...... but that wouldn't work w/o removing more material than what I felt was safe. I settled on 1 1/8"; but it still took some creativity to ensure that my steering linkage had 1/8" clearance for lock to lock.
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.

Last edited by SCOTI; 12-15-2007 at 07:35 PM. Reason: CRS Disease
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Old 12-15-2007, 05:42 PM   #12
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Re: crossmember swap-drop

so your saying it's alot of work for only 1". i never had or lowered a truck. i'm planing on 2.5" spindels and think i want more. not sure what using drop springs will do to suspension and stearing geoimtry. i want it to ride and drive as good if not alot better than new
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Old 12-15-2007, 06:02 PM   #13
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Re: crossmember swap-drop

I did this. Yes, it is ALOT of work for a little over an inch. If I were to do it over, I would strongly consider a z. If you section the crossmember, don't go more than 1.25. With this amount, you will still need to shave some of the lip of the crossmember so the inner tie rods dont hit it. Good luck with it. If you have any questions, just ask.
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Old 12-15-2007, 07:46 PM   #14
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Re: crossmember swap-drop

Quote:
Originally Posted by wibilly View Post
so your saying it's alot of work for only 1". i never had or lowered a truck. i'm planing on 2.5" spindels and think i want more. not sure what using drop springs will do to suspension and stearing geoimtry. i want it to ride and drive as good if not alot better than new
My truck was dropped spindles + 1-coil cut from the 33yr old springs. It was equal to about 5.5~6" of front drop. It was fine for the daily grind here in DFW TX. Where you're @ might be a different story.

The reason I did the c.member section was simply to raise the lowest part of the front end.... the a-arm shafts (since they're the first things to hit). I just wanted the added 1"+ of clearance for safety margin.

But, after cutting the crossmember, clearancing, assembling, plumbing, & painting the front suspension of the truck, I've stepped up my game & purchased a PorterBuilt-Streetrods 'Dropmember'. That gives me even more ground clearance if I keep air in the bags or it will go lower if I yank the inner wheelwells.
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 12-17-2007, 02:14 AM   #15
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Re: crossmember swap-drop

A friend of mine did 4" using this method but he was making a entirely new frame so it made sense. I think the problem is that to retain steering to suspension alignmnet you have to raise all the steering components(steering box and idler arm) as well. If you start looking at it you see that you have to modify the frame in front of the crossmember for steering linkage clearence. I suppose that you could leave the steering stuff in the stock location but Id imagine bump steer could be a problem. By the way, my friend had to cut up the center link and put a dropped section into it to clear the engine oil pan.
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