Problems tuning my new motor.

[Billla]

Originally Posted by sixtyfour

I used end gaskets, Edelbrock says not too. They say only used silicone sealant. Edelbrock also says I need to use some tacky glue between the head and the intake gaskets, I didn't. I put them on dry. Looks like I have my work cutout for me this weekend.

Question, what is the proper torque sequence for the manifold bolts? I started at the center and worked my way out in a criss cross pattern? Was this right?

Yep, never - ever - use the rubber gaskets. Lay down a nice 3/8" or so bead of RTV, overlapping the intake gaskets on the heads. You don't really need to use a dressing on the intake gaskets, but I always use Gaskacinch. You know that you also need to run a thin bead of RTV around the water passages, right?

Proper sequence is in your service manual Remeber to always work up to the final torque value in at least two steps.

[Chevy Fleetside]

If you didnt' use silicone on the ends it will leak oil for sure. You have to make sure you put at least a 1/4 bead all the way across. You want to see it oooozzzz out.. You can cut the extra with a razor after it dries, or just leave it..

[Billla]

Originally Posted by Chevy Fleetside

make sure you put at least a 1/4 bead all the way across.

You want to see it oooozzzz out.. You can cut the extra with a razor after it dries, or just leave it..

That's a little fat IMHO - you really don't want any of this stuff to end up in the cam valley...but I'd agree that a little too much is better than ANY too little.

I generally do a quick wipe with a wet finger when it's still wet to make a nice tuckpoint

[Chevy Fleetside]

I think my idea of oozing out is differnt then others...

[sixtyfour]

Originally Posted by 1966gmc

I never use Edlebrock intake gaskets either

Why don't you use Edelbrock gaskets? I used Fel-Pro the first time and was going to try the Edelbrock gasket this time...

[sixtyfour]

Originally Posted by Billla

You don't really need to use a dressing on the intake gaskets, but I always use Gaskacinch.

Gaskacinch, yeah...I'm gonna use that this time! I didn't last time.

Originally Posted by Billla

You know that you also need to run a thin bead of RTV around the water passages, right?

Yep...thanks!

[greg64]

Here's the intake manifold sequence:

Start at the passenger side, middle bolts (rearmost of the two) (#1)
Rotate clockwise through the four nearest the carb. (#2, 3, 4)
Next is passenger side second from rear, then rearmost. (#5, 6)
Next is driver's side second from rear, then rearmost. (#7, 8)
Next is driver's side second from front, then frontmost. (#9, 10)
Next is passenger's side second from the front, then frontmost. (#11, 12)

Whatdayaknow, this shop manual is actually good for something....

[protrash64]

If you are redoing your gaskets......I have used a very LITE coating of RTV on the intake side of the head to help hold the thing in place. I smear it on with my finger so it is very thin. set your I/G on top and then bead up the ends of the valley, get the corners really well! Then plop that puppy straight down on it!

The torque sequence sarts at the center as you mentioned............think of it as a spiral around the carb until you reach the ends of the intake manifold.

Keep at it! Its all a learning experience for sure!

[sixtyfour]

Well, put new intake gaskets on, I think I may have had the distributor off by a tooth. Found true top dead center using a piston stop tool, turns out the factory marks were right on. So I know the timing is right now. It's running much better, the miss is gone. It think the carb still needs some tuning so I'll be tinkering with that this week. It's still back firing through the carb and has a hesitation.