Blazer tub removal

[ers13]

Quick question for those of you that have done a frame off restoration. Do you need to cut/ remove the rocker boxes if you pull the tub off the farme? Can you just unbolt the rocker box end caps and lift it?

Thanks

Ed

[Huck]

The rocker boxes are bolted and welded in place. If good, no need to remove. I have a tub resting on the boxes with some 4x4's holding the body up a bit--while sitting on my 4 poster lift. Check real close the tailing part of the torque boxes especially where they run close to the B pillar--most common rust area and very difficult to fix-repair-prevent rust. The pillars do not have access to spray in rust preventive stuff.

[Big J]

Yeah, what Huck said.... It all depends on what kind of shape its in. If its good just unhook all the wireing and stuff, unbolt the body mounts and lift it off. If its in bad shape then you'll have bunches of fun work ahead...... If you post some pics maybe you'll get some more specific advice.

[LUV2XCLR8]

Be sure to put in some cross braces where the doors are and also the tailgate
is if you are planning on removing them before taking the tub off the frame.

[ers13]

Thanks for all the info. I'm on the road right now so I can't post a pic. My question I guess is: since the rocker box is welded to the frame along the inner side, and also welded to the bottom of the firewall, it looks like I've got to at minimum seperat the stich weld on the frame. Is this correct? My rockers are solid, but were cut for aftermarket saddle tanks.

The bracing question: I plan on leaving the doors, tailgate, and hardtop on to protect structural integrity. Do I still need to brace those sections. I've had new OEM rockers installed, and new Goodmark doors (They're pretty thin).

Again, thanks to all for the advice.

Best

Ed

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by ers13

Thanks for all the info. I'm on the road right now so I can't post a pic. My question I guess is: since the rocker box is welded to the frame along the inner side, and also welded to the bottom of the firewall, it looks like I've got to at minimum seperat the stich weld on the frame. Is this correct? My rockers are solid, but were cut for aftermarket saddle tanks.

The bracing question: I plan on leaving the doors, tailgate, and hardtop on to protect structural integrity. Do I still need to brace those sections. I've had new OEM rockers installed, and new Goodmark doors (They're pretty thin).

Again, thanks to all for the advice.

Best

Ed

I think you may be looking in the wrong area, the frame is a good 1 1/2' away from the rocker boxes. There is a brace that runs firewall to step up for bed, it also contains the rocker box support. Look closer in this area and I think you will see what I'm talking about. The body should lift off with out fooling with that stuff.

I have Good Mark doors also and I think they will stand the strain. If you're lifting it from above use a spreader bar so it doesn't pinch in on your top and crack it. Keep your tailgate on also.

Any more questions post them up and take pics as it helps to visualize what your talking about. J.

[vtblazer]

I think he's talking about removing "just" the tub and having the firewall stay in place.

"If" that's what your talking about ers13, you might want to reconsider and remove it as a whole unit.

Their one piece, tub/firewall stay together. (usually)

If you need to separate, the easiest way is to open up the factory weld seam and cut the A pillar.

[ers13]

VTBlazer,

I was going to remove the entire tub as a whole. I haven't seen my blazer for the last 2 weeks, but get home tommorow night and will look underneath. I was looking at the diagrams in the LMC truck and thinking about how the rocker box was attached. I have all the mounts undone, the fuel ines seperated and all the other things disconnected. I'm hoping to redo the entire frame by sandblasting, new fuel and brake lines, and new poly body mounts. A few odds and ends have turned into a frame off for me.

I'll post pics as things progress.

Thanks again to all!!

Ed

[vtblazer]

Originally Posted by ers13

VTBlazer,

I was going to remove the entire tub as a whole. I haven't seen my blazer for the last 2 weeks, but get home tommorow night and will look underneath. I was looking at the diagrams in the LMC truck and thinking about how the rocker box was attached. I have all the mounts undone, the fuel ines seperated and all the other things disconnected. I'm hoping to redo the entire frame by sandblasting, new fuel and brake lines, and new poly body mounts. A few odds and ends have turned into a frame off for me.

I'll post pics as things progress.

Thanks again to all!!

Ed

Okay, I misunderstood.
Everything will come off as a whole without issue.
Here's a couple pix showing the torsion box underneath with the tub already removed from the frame.

Yours will come off the same way, with the firewall still attached of course.

[ers13]

vtblazer,

Thanks, that's EXACTLY what I was looking for!!!

Best

Ed

[vtblazer]

Originally Posted by ers13

vtblazer,

Thanks, that's EXACTLY what I was looking for!!!

Best

Ed

Glad to help.

Post up progress pics when you get the chance.

Welcome to the board.

[CJ5 Convert]

crap I search and search and then as soon as I send a PM to VT I found the damn answer. -Jason

[bigdon-70blazer]

Here is a picof some easy bracing you can do without welding, only bolts and nuts. Since I am welder challenged, I did it this way and it worked very well.

[SteelMohawk]

its just a thought, But are bed frames long enogh to do the cross patterns? Because if so, they are constantly thrown away, people who dont have square edge lying around, and its normally free.