Flare vs Double Flare?

[jorgensensc]

So I'm using a later model booster setup for power brakes and it puts the prop valve at the front crossmember. I need to shorten the rear brake line to make it fit. I borrowed a flaring kit from advanced in order to shorten the line. I thought I would practice on a pice of brakeline first. Good thing I did. I can only get the tool to do a regular flare. When i try and use the adapter to do a double flair first, it just pushes the brake line out of the flaring bar. Do I need to do a double flare, or will a single flare work okay? I just need to shorten the one line, so I really don't want to buy a whole flaring kit. Any suggestions?
Shawn

[steelhorse]

Always double flare a single flare is a lot weaker and can crack.If the line is slipping in the holder try tightening the end closest to the line all the way then tighten the end furthest away,use the bar to turn the locking tabs if necessary.If you are using the tool I think you are they are not very expensive probably $20 or so.

[jorgensensc]

Thanks for the input. The one your thinking of is exactly what I'm using. They told me to return it when I'm done since I only need it for one line. I tried the tightening down the closest first, but the bar looks like it bows out where the line is. It will single flare perfectly, but the double just isn't working correctly.
Shawn

[cdowns]

buy a quality tool that will last a lifetime rather than borrowing a "free" tool that could cost you your life

[jorgensensc]

Originally Posted by cdowns

buy a quality tool that will last a lifetime rather than borrowing a "free" tool that could cost you your life

Normally I would completely subscribe to this thought process. However, quality tools cost quality money which I don't have at the moment, but I need to get the brakes done. So, I am working within my means. But as always I appreciate your input cdowns. If I was redoing all of the lines I would definately buy something, but I only need one end, on one line.
Shawn

[Psycho71]

I've had blocks that wouldn't hold worth a squat working from one side, but would hold great when working from the other. Try flipping the block over and see if that does any good. I know it sounds crazy, but it's true.

Beyond that, sounds like a bad block. Might not have been sized right in manufacturing.

Jay

[jorgensensc]

Originally Posted by Psycho71

I've had blocks that wouldn't hold worth a squat working from one side, but would hold great when working from the other. Try flipping the block over and see if that does any good. I know it sounds crazy, but it's true.

Beyond that, sounds like a bad block. Might not have been sized right in manufacturing.

Jay

I just tried that after your recommendation. It still doesn't hold. It is probably a junk flare tool. Darn. Thanks for the suggestion anyway.
Shawn

[jlaird]

Originally Posted by jorgensensc

I just tried that after your recommendation. It still doesn't hold. It is probably a junk flare tool. Darn. Thanks for the suggestion anyway.
Shawn

There are a couple things you can try before writing that tool off. The tube pushing through is a common problem.

First, use a cutoff tool to cut the line. Don't use a tube cutter. When the tube cutter is dull (which it probably most certainly is being a rental) can harden the end of tube.

Second, make sure you debur the inside of the tube and the outside.

Clamp the tool in a vise and make sure there is the proper amount of stick-out.

You can also lubricate the tip of the tool to ease the process.

Try that and let us know.

Josh

[Psycho71]

Or, if nothing else works, you could try using some shim material to tighten things up a bit. .003-.005" ought to do it. Maybe a hunk of feeler gauge? They're pretty cheap.


Jay

[ratpackv8sonly]

If you put it in a vise after you have the line in it and tighten it in the middle where it is bowing out from the line it will hold it from slippiing. Had to do it even with a new one from snapon tools.

[steelhorse]

JUst take the line off and take it down to a local shop and have them flare it.I probably wont cost $5 and most mechanics have quality tools.

[jorgensensc]

Thank you all for the great advice. The difficulty lies in the line is continuos from the front prop valve to the rear of the truck It is one piece. That is why I was hoping to be able to leave it on the truck and just do the end only. Maybe that won't be an option after all.

[sneakysnake]

http://www.stu-offroad.com/suspensio...etool/ft-1.htm

Might give you some help.