New Here...Should I Buy This Truck?

[ryan_long_01]

Hey guys,

I'm a 28 year old graphic designer in Indianapolis, and I've been wanting one of these trucks for years now. I currently daily-drive a 10-year-old BMW M3 Coupe, but I've had a couple of trucks in the past, including an 88 Ford Ranger with a V8 swap (289 from a Fairlane).

Anyway, right now I've managed to get together $1000 to spend on a truck, and I've been looking for something that runs and drives with a body in decent structural condition (rusty rockers expected, but not too much else beyond surface rust). I've looked at a couple of trucks that I've found on craigslist, but both of them have had really rusty bedsides, etc.

The truck I'm currently looking at is a '69 Chevy with a 283 and 3 speed manual on the floor. The truck runs and drives well, according to the seller, and he actually bought it as a parts truck for his '71 -- he was going to use the engine and trans. Rocker panels are obviously rusty (pretty common around here unless you are ready to spend a lot of money on a truck), but other than that it looks like mostly surface rust.

I haven't seen this truck in person yet, just talked on the phone and email. I wanted to get opinions here before pulling the trigger, though. Seller is asking $800 for the truck, not sure how flexible he is but I'm sure he'll come down at least a little.

Basically, I'd like to have a truck to drive around as needed, but I want to do a slow, low-buck resto/cleanup as money and time allow. This won't ever be a show truck, more like a shop logo on the side (remember, I'm a graphic designer -- it's right up my alley!) or a satin black garage paint job.





So, what do you guys think...is the truck worth $800? Good starting point for a budget project? All feedback appreciated...I've never done a project like this before!

Thanks guys,

Ryan

[nightmare]

Ryan, looks like an ok truck to start from, but make sure that you look at the cab supports underneath, as well as the kick panels on the inside. Look under the carpet, or floor mat, for holes. Also, it looks like there is pretty bad rust on the driver's side pillar by the window. Personally, I'd give $300-$400 for it, because it is a very basic, stripped down model, but that is my opinion.

Welcome to the site from Texas, too!

[ryan_long_01]

Nightmare, thanks a ton for the opinion -- that's exactly what I was looking for. I'm trying my best to be patient and find the best truck for the money, that's why I've already passed on a couple. But, then again, I'm in Indiana, and rusty trucks are the norm here unless you've got a lot of money to spend...this truck isn't listed for sale anywhere though, so I don't have to rush. I'll keep looking in the meantime.

[71swb4x4]

Spend a little more money on a solid truck, it will save you a ton of money and time later.

I had an Avus blue 95 M3. Those M3's are fun cars!!!

[Ole Blue 68]

If it runs as advertised, I'd consider it if he is willing to come down some on the price.

[LockDoc]

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Welcome to the board Ryan. Be sure and check around the windshield and behind the visors on the inside. Some trucks rust really bad there and it is tough to fix. Also, when you open the hood check the core support and inner fender panel under the battery and look at the cowl above the brake master cylinder and heater box.

Good luck with your search.

LockDoc

[steelhorse]

Look online for a texas/arizona truck the benefit of not having to fix a ton of rust is WELL worth the time/expense

[ryan_long_01]

Thanks for the input, fellas...I think I'll keep looking and maybe consider this one if I can't find anything else in my price range and this guy comes down a little on his price. I wish I had more to spend, but I really can't get much more together right now, nor do I want to spend a ton of money on what will basically be a fun side project that will cost me enough money in parts as it is -- you guys know how that is! I've got some emails out about some trucks that look cleaner than this one (but are a few hours away), so we'll see what happens.

[70rs/ss]

If just a beater driver rust isn't going to cause any failures, so if he'll take $400-500 buy it. I am not into long beds but that helps them to be cheaper, too. A G will buy a decent shortbed around here, but then you need to get it from AZ to your place. Check the kick panels (inside near the floors) the cab mounts, pull the windshield gasket back inside and out and look for rust there as well. If it isn't bad buy it, but for $4-500 and figure on spending the other $500 on brakes, tires, etc, etc, etc as that truck looks well used.

[PanelDeland]

Keep in mind also that every dollar you spend on better sheetmetal will save you two or more in the long run.Your level of experience working on mechanical stuff will make a difference.Some of the members here can do all their own mechanical,body,paint and interior.Some have a hard time putting the key in the ignition.Be realistic about which parts of the work you can/will do.
Just throwing some thoughts out there for you to include in your determination of which truck is best for you.

[ryan_long_01]

Good point...I'm pretty good mechanically (I do all the maintenance/repairs on my BMW, and I've done engine swaps, clutch replacements, etc. through the years.), interior isn't a problem, but I have no real bodywork experience. I was planning to learn, but it would probably make more sense to buy a solid bodied truck that doesn't run well, since that's more up my alley. Then again, it's awfully nice to drive the truck home and at least be able to drive it while as needed. Not an easy decision!

[ryan_long_01]

Hey guys...

Check this one out...



It has a recently rebuilt 350 with some performance parts (Holley carb, Weiand intake, long tube headers) and a recently rebuilt Turbo 350 trans. 3.73 rear end gears, power front discs/rear drums, new front suspension w/ 2" drop, new power steering stuff, new radiator, soft bed cover, and lots of spare parts. He was originally asking $2500 but he's in a hurry to sell and he's willing to take $1000. There's one guy in front of me that might make an offer, but if that guy passes on it, it's mine. This one looks pretty nice to me for $1000...opinions?

[nightmare]

Looks better, but the rocker appears to be missing, and the cab corner looks like it doesn't even exist. Is it close to you?

Also, that air breather is a fire hazard.

[dieselarmy13]

If you ask me, a fellow rustbelter, that seems like a pretty decent deal, rockers or no rockers. If you do get it, throw that air cleaner at the neighbors cat, though.

[ryan_long_01]

This truck is a few hours away, but we're meeting partway, so it will be about a 2 hour drive for me. I think I can deal with putting a new rocker, etc. considering I'll be getting a pretty fresh motor and trans in a pretty clean truck for a grand. Luckily this guy needs cash quick!

I hate those little air cleaners too...I'm going to ask the guy if he has another one. I'll let you all know what happens...I'm looking at going to get it on Friday.

[raggedjim]

Looks like it has a newer style master cylinder, it may have been updated to 5 lug disc (which I think is good...)

The air cleaner is a fire hazard...

It looks better, but who knows from pics, when you go see it crawl all under it. It takes almost as much effort to replace a little rust as it does a lot of rust.

Good luck, Rg

[nightmare]

Originally Posted by ryan_long_01

This truck is a few hours away, but we're meeting partway, so it will be about a 2 hour drive for me. I think I can deal with putting a new rocker, etc. considering I'll be getting a pretty fresh motor and trans in a pretty clean truck for a grand. Luckily this guy needs cash quick!

I hate those little air cleaners too...I'm going to ask the guy if he has another one. I'll let you all know what happens...I'm looking at going to get it on Friday.

True. It does look better than the other one. Good luck. Let us know how it turns out.

[ryan_long_01]

Asked the guy to throw in another air cleaner that he has...he was going to throw in spare parts like that when he was asking $2500, but since he's lowered his price to $1000, he wasn't going to. I told him I didn't care about the stereo and stuff like that, but would like a different air cleaner on there if he could do it.

He's sending me some more/bigger pictures, as well as the build sheet for the rebuilt engine. I'll also crawl all around and check the thing out in person when I go to meet him. I'm fairly confident that I'll buy it, but I can always use whatever I find to negotiate a lower price. I think this is a heck of a truck for $1000 in the rust belt, so I'm pretty excited. I'll definitely give it a good looking-over in spite of my excitement, though. I've made the mistake before, in my younger years, of driving a long way to look at a car and buying it even though my gut told me not to...won't make that mistake again!

I'll update when I get some more pics and answers to some questions I asked the guy. Thanks for the help, fellas!!

Ryan

[berencam]

Around here a "rebuilt engine" means "needs rebuilt". Every billy bob and joe dirt can "rebuild" a engine, but it takes time, money and patience to build one correctly. The c10 i bought had a "fresh rebuild" on it. It would start and drive, but come to find out when i got it, the block was cracked. So i started dissembling it, and what else do i find? no head gaskets to name just one mistake.

Now that im done badmouthing rebuilt engines, that truck does look like a decent start especially for your area. And even if the engine goes kaput on you, you could drop a crate motor in for 2k or so. Or build your own motor and save some cash. And with the fairly shiny paint it will be a decent 20 footer.

[ryan_long_01]

No head gaskets! Ouch! I should be getting a build sheet via email soon for the engine rebuild (I'm assuming he had a shop build it, but I'll find out) and he says that he has receipts and documentation for everything...so hopefully there won't be any "drunken shadetree mechanic rebuild" surprises like no head gaskets!

I am interested to see the specifics on the rebuild, though...

[ChevLoRay]

There's a ton of places that these things can have rust. My truck looked decent. Bed, fenders, hood, cowl were all rust-free, as proven by the soda-blasted results. Except......the tab on the driver's side of the cab that attaches the fender came off with the fender; the wiper motor fell out of the cab when the metal around it rusted after the previous owner used some non-automotive Silastic to stop a water leak; and the cowls are notorious for harboring dirt and leaves that lead to the ventilation of the kick panels. Mention has been made of the windshield header (above the glass). These cabs have three layers of metal in the roof.

[Bus Ted Knuckle]

That's like asking a bunch of crack-heads if they want another hit...

[67_C-30]

Welcome to the board Ryan. The red one appears to be a nice truck for the money.