Coy Wheels Don't Fit Chevy Trucks...

[PICKMUP]

Without some extra work.
You really have to check clearances, when you are first installing wheels or any other after market parts. Here are some pics of problem areas.
First the wheels on the front would not go on all the way. They looked OK, but I could feel them going on the hub hard. When I checked there was a gap between the wheel and brake rotor. Smaller grease cups didn't cure it.
The inside of the wheel was too tight to go over the hubs in two areas...sanding drums on die grinder opened the wheels up enough to go on until the end of the rotor by the grease cup hit the wheel cap...I could either use spacers on the cap (that looked goofy) or grind the ends of the rotor hubs...grind away.
When they would finally go on easy and the caps cleared...I realized the valve stems hit the rotors. I guess that will call for breaking down the tires and installing some kind of angled stems???
Those open spoke areas sure show all of the rust & dirt behind the wheels, so I guess I am going to have to do some clean up & paint.
Next comes the fit on the rear wheels...

[PICKMUP]

It takes a lot of tools to put a Coy wheel on the first time...

[Frizzle Fry]

I only had to deal with one of those issues with my 20/22 combo; the hub cap beveling. The valve stems they sent me were the "flush" style that would probably work for you too. As long as the removable stem doesn't hit the rotor when you need to air it up.

[PICKMUP]

Actually, these types of problems are very common when installing non-OEM parts. These wheels (17x8 w/4" BS) were probably designed to fit cars---more common. I got them used and they were said to be on an Impala? The clearances on the hubs to inside of wheels were close, but a little too tight to go on.
The rotors sticking out and hitting the caps may be from replacement rotors not being exact. After 40 years, who knows.
I put American 200S "Coke Bottles" on the front of my 2wd Blazer and the caps hit the grease cups. I ended up putting a bead of silicone between the wheel & hub on the inside to keep dirt out and run them without dust caps. That sounds scary, but it is all sealed up in there, so it works fine.
My point is, check everything you install carefully. 50% of it won't fit without help and 25% of it will just be wrong.
I wish I had $1 for every time I send pics & info to manufacturers on problems and get back the classic answer, "Well, no one else has ever complained...and we sell a lot of them".

[Alvin]

I bought some 17x8 Edelbrock 454 wheels and hit similar problems. They had tri-bar spinners that actually screwed onto the push-in center cap. The center cap wouldn't fit over the hub, just like the coy's. I also had a problem of the lug recesses on the face of the wheel. The only thing I can figure is the 5x5 cars must have smaller lugs, because there was no way I could fit a lug nut in the recess.

I wound up going with 17x8 American Racing Torq-thrust Originals. They bolted right up without any problems.

[67_C-30]

Originally Posted by Alvin

I bought some 17x8 Edelbrock 454 wheels and hit similar problems. They had tri-bar spinners that actually screwed onto the push-in center cap. The center cap wouldn't fit over the hub, just like the coy's. I also had a problem of the lug recesses on the face of the wheel. The only thing I can figure is the 5x5 cars must have smaller lugs, because there was no way I could fit a lug nut in the recess.

I wound up going with 17x8 American Racing Torq-thrust Originals. They bolted right up without any problems.

They do. The cars have 7/16" studs and the trucks have 1/2" after '71.

[fatboys69]

had the same problem on my 69, this is waht I did. I can send out the cad file so you can get some made.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=288030

[billydonn]

Originally Posted by PICKMUP

Without some extra work.
You really have to check clearances, when you are first installing wheels or any other after market parts. Here are some pics of problem areas.
First the wheels on the front would not go on all the way. They looked OK, but I could feel them going on the hub hard. When I checked there was a gap between the wheel and brake rotor. Smaller grease cups didn't cure it.
The inside of the wheel was too tight to go over the hubs in two areas...sanding drums on die grinder opened the wheels up enough to go on until the end of the rotor by the grease cup hit the wheel cap...I could either use spacers on the cap (that looked goofy) or grind the ends of the rotor hubs...grind away.
When they would finally go on easy and the caps cleared...I realized the valve stems hit the rotors. I guess that will call for breaking down the tires and installing some kind of angled stems???
Those open spoke areas sure show all of the rust & dirt behind the wheels, so I guess I am going to have to do some clean up & paint.
Next comes the fit on the rear wheels...

Here's how TT2s fit on 72up rotors