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Old 02-08-2003, 12:06 PM   #1
Orence1
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Ram Air Box

Have any of you guys thought about this set-up or seen it done on our trucks? Read a tech article that indicates a 25 hp gain over standard air cleaner because you are using cooler, more dense air. My question would be the best location on the core support for the vents that the hoses attach to.
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Old 02-08-2003, 02:22 PM   #2
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Saw one awhile back on ebay that someone had spliced a second unit on....nicely done......

I've thought about these as well........

Would be interested on info on this unit.....
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Old 02-08-2003, 02:57 PM   #3
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Bluebeard,
Check out this link:
http://www.ramairbox.com/
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Old 02-08-2003, 08:25 PM   #4
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Orence1

Thanks for the link.....the kit link was kind of messed up......will contact them to get more info for trucks......
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Old 02-08-2003, 08:55 PM   #5
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Let us know what you find out.
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Old 02-09-2003, 03:23 PM   #6
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Orence1

Here's the information on the Ram Air:

Would like to know if you have kits for the 67-72 Chevrolet Trucks
>available?

=======================================================
I suggest the
Full kit Part # F14x4@110kit
includes: 14x4@110, 14AL/DCover, AF4 air filter & 14AL/FBase
10' AL4 tubing, 4x HS64 hose clamp, 2x 4FLC fish-lock intake collar,
Stud & Nut, Seal & instruction pack.
is $208.45US incl S&H.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
You may place your order over the phone with Visa, M/C or AmEx.
(905) 549-6135, 8AM to 5PM Monday to Friday.

Not bad since it includes shipping and handling to the US
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Old 02-09-2003, 08:22 PM   #7
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Got a chance to look at a 69 today with a 454 and a full radiator shroud. At this point I don't see where the hoses could outlet. With the battery tray there is just not a lot of room on the core support. Any thoughts? Also, thanks for doing the research.
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Old 02-10-2003, 03:47 PM   #8
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I run a ram air box, they do work. My battery went out back a long time ago. I cut holes each side of the radiator. Still perfecting this part. On a 68 grille it's not so easy to line up. I have two ducts from an extractor hood for a domestic hob. They are the right transition from rectangle to round. I am going to mount these in the grille using a lower grille in the upper hole (without the lights), the air will then feed from the light holes.
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Old 02-10-2003, 04:01 PM   #9
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This was posted quite some time ago. I'm pretty sure that the guy that owns this is still a board member.
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Old 02-10-2003, 04:11 PM   #10
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I wouldn't want to lose the use of two of my headlights, but I would think it could be possible to run to oblong intakes in the grille...

My other idea involves building a cowl-induction box that sucks air in from the same place as the air conditioning intake, for that sleeper effect. The only possible problem with that would be water...still thinking that one over...
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Old 02-10-2003, 04:27 PM   #11
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Another good option is to use a cowl induction hood with the top of the cleaner sealed to the bottom of the hood. Just leave the back of the cowl hood opened. There is a low pressure area at the base of the windshield good for picking up cool air. Seems to me I read an article in a mag at one time that ram air only becomes functional at higher speeds. I will be using a cowl induction hood on my truck with the air cleaner sealed to the hood.
BTW that is a cool looking ram air box.

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Old 02-10-2003, 06:50 PM   #12
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That is my truck. I don't have that set up any more, but I remember all the details from it. I'm here if you have any questions.
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Old 02-10-2003, 08:57 PM   #13
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Someone makes a Ram air hood for our trucks US Body Source I believe. Don't like them, but I want a Cowl Fiber hood, like to do the seal to cowl thing. But I like the ram air idea a little better. I think all it take is some wire relocation/rerouting, and a battery relocation.
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Old 02-10-2003, 11:31 PM   #14
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Does anyone think that setup on the red truck would work? Its a neat idea and all but I would think that the resistance on the air inside the corugated hose would cancel out any improvements the whole deal would make.
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Old 02-10-2003, 11:39 PM   #15
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Here is a pic of the Ram Air II Hood. This is what I am putting on my 72. I like the look.
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Old 02-11-2003, 02:05 AM   #16
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Cool hood! What's the pricetag on one of those?
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Old 02-11-2003, 03:37 AM   #17
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Cool Cold Air

This is my set up. I know it's for fuel injection, but it would work for carb engines too.
I bought some 4" black pvc from lowes, a 90 caddy air box, closed up the factory opening and cut a 4" hole into the bottom of it. The black pvc 90 with 2 screw coupling that I sawed off the threads and just used the flange to stick through the radiator support and hooked the 90 to then used the other couplinen in the air box and hooked to the other side of the 90. I have a late model alternater with the built in regulator so I drilled a 4" hole there.

I think it would work fine on a carb truck also. If I get time I will take it apart and take some pictures.





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Old 02-11-2003, 03:45 AM   #18
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There is the equivilent to a ram air box on my Ford, doesnt seem to make a difference if i put the plastic duct back on or off
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Old 02-11-2003, 12:23 PM   #19
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Yes Gee_Umm that set up worked. At the time I had a naturally aspirated 383 with a Holly 650. As soon as I put the ram air on the engine would run out of fuel at the top end. I then put a 750 and never had a problem. Yes it works without a doubt. The only problem is you are not supposed to use it during cold weather because your carb could freeze. I remember when it got near freezing it was a little temperamental.

On the GMCs they have two holes in the outside part of the core support. I moved the outer high/low beams to the inside and put them in the center. I used Hella headlights to make up the difference for loss high beam light. I think the hole is around three inch hole and I just used adapters to make it fit with the five inch tubing. That setup would fit under a stock hood and use a five-inch air cleaner and a drop base.

Reumster is right about the wiring. I had to move the junction block near the battery, but never had to move the battery it self it would fit just fine. I just attached the wires that went to the junction block to the battery directly using my unused side posts on the battery. That way it cleaned up the side of the fender and made room for the tubes.

Check these links out.
Ram air 1 Link 2
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