aftermarket bigger brakes

[chris71]

I drive my truck daily and there are some crazy drivers around the DC/Baltimore area, i was playing around with the idea to possibly upgrade the front brakes (i have front power disc's in my 71), such as mutiple piston calipers and bigger rotors/ drilled or slotted rotors. i know that some of these big kits you cant run 15 in rims, i would like to keep my 15's just so i dont have to buy all new wheels. any of you guys out there running beefed up brakes with 15's? if some pics and info would be much appreciated.

[jkaylor68gmc]

SSBC has a kit that allows you to upgrade the rotors and the calipers while retaining 15s, I think thye are the only one. I have them and love them.

[chris71]

Originally Posted by jkaylor68gmc

SSBC has a kit that allows you to upgrade the rotors and the calipers while retaining 15s, I think thye are the only one. I have them and love them.

man if you had any pics i would love to see them, i was just on their website, but it didnt look like they had any stuff for our year trucks. are yours the force 10 2, 3, or 4 piston's? and can you feel a noticlbe differnce between them and OE. also do you have special rotors? thanks.

[mr48chev]

There are also several outfits making kits to convert the rear drums to disk.
It is a popular conversion with the rock crawlers. One might have to mix and match parts on a two wheel drive though but I think front rotors for a 77 Eldorado could fit if the center hole can be made to match the rear hub on the truck.

[whatnow123]

I don't know what size tires you're running or what your truck weighs, but I've got 4 wheel disks, I think they are 12 inch rotors and the thing stops so fast you can lose your gum.

[chris71]

Originally Posted by whatnow123

I don't know what size tires you're running or what your truck weighs, but I've got 4 wheel disks, I think they are 12 inch rotors and the thing stops so fast you can lose your gum.

its a lwb fleetside, with average size tires, cant remember the size, someone told me once that rear disks on these trucks didnt make much difference over the stock drums, what do you guys think? maybe that guy was wrong, i have no clue

[steelhorse]

You could upgrade to a two piston setup and add drilled/slotted rotors and some performance pads.I have gotten a better pedal feel with braided hoses over the rubber but I cant tell you if it stops better from them.

[jorgensensc]

When upgrading your front rotors keep in mind the original stock rotors were 11.8" (3/4 ton 8 lug has 12.5" rotors). That is darn near 12" I don't know if the money is really worth upgrading to 12" in front. Bleed the brake lines and use DOT 4 or 5 synthetic Brake fluid. I am a believer in Stainless braided or Kevlar lines, high quality brake pads (I like EBC), and Dimpled and slotted rotors. Many manufacturers have left the drilled rotors (holes all the way through) due to cracking at the holes. Dimpled gives you the same look, but not the problems of cracking. These things will help out tremendously without blowing a budget.
Shawn

[Ackattack]

Yeah, the stock size rotor isn't too much of a problem.

I know summit sells some 2 piston calipers that will fit our trucks (can't remember the brand off the top of my head), as well as good brake pads (another nod for ebc), stainless steel hoses. I've also heard good braking improvements using a 3/4ton brake booster. I would imagine that if you do all that, your truck will be stopping good.

I'm going to go with bigger brakes on the front of mine, but that is primarily to fill up the 20s

[jorgensensc]

I also agree with a dual diaphragm brake booster normally found on the 3/4 ton trucks.

[chris71]

yeah i had heard that about the 3/4 booster, i will do that in the future, i also plan on installing an adjustable prop valve in addition to the factory style prop valve, so i can fine tune the front/back sensitivity, right now my back are locking up before the fronts, i have a brand new prop valve that i havent installed yet. do those slotted/drilled rotors really help with brakeing? i have heard that they are mainly to minimize warping and heat buildup. good point about the rubber lines guys, i will put that on the list to get as well.

[jorgensensc]

The slots actually help with the off gassing that occurs when the pads are heated up from hard braking. The gas can form a thin cushion between the pad and the rotor causing the braking action to be compromised. You shouldn't need an adjustable prop valve with a good working original style prop valve.

[steelhorse]

You could also switch to a hydroboost,the have lots of brake pressure.

[whatnow123]

Originally Posted by chris71

its a lwb fleetside, with average size tires, cant remember the size, someone told me once that rear disks on these trucks didnt make much difference over the stock drums, what do you guys think? maybe that guy was wrong, i have no clue

I don't know if the rear disks make a difference or not as I never drove it with rear drums. I have drilled front rotors with 275's tires in front, the rear are 285's and the gas tank is back there also, so I have a bit more weight over the rear combined with a lot of rubber on the road which I'm sure really helps quite a bit.

[Senator350]

Originally Posted by steelhorse

You could also switch to a hydroboost,the have lots of brake pressure.

THIS is your ticket.

silly slotted rotors or dual pot calipers aren't going to help you much, if at all. you are looking for more clamping force... not better heat dissipation. if you experience brake FADE, (the only reason to switch to drilled-slotted-and ceramic pads) then you are driving like a whack job anyway, and you're not going to take anybody's advice. If you've never lit a brake pad on fire while braking, then you don't need any of this stuff

to increase clamping force, run a better vac booster, or run hydroboost. hydroboost systems from late model GM pickups can be had for less than $100 on eBay, and will lock all four if you really want to. Bolt-in + routing some hoses from your PS pump -> hydroboost -> back to PS resovior and to PS box. easy as pie. I think I'll do a write up on the install tomorrow evening, as I'm upgrading to a GM P-30 hydroboost

big brakes, drilled & slotted, dual piston, fancy pads... all for racing.
take it from a SCCA racer.

[jorgensensc]

Originally Posted by Senator350

if you experience brake FADE, (the only reason to switch to drilled-slotted-and ceramic pads) then you are driving like a whack job anyway, and you're not going to take anybody's advice.

Hey I represent, uhh I mean resent this remark!!!!
Shawn