LFD's 4dr Tahoe Build

[BlueJeep]

What's the blue stuff on the door?

Do you dolly after each tack, or after a series? Is the procedure with the TIG similar to that of the MIG? I also have a TIG that I've only played with a little bit, practice pieces and a few tube adapters. I want to get good with it, but can't seem to find the time to practice.

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by noteron

badazz az alwayz!!! Stop making it look so easy... Im starting to think I can do it too...

But it is real easy. All I do is push these projects into the shop, close the door and it just happens. Doesent your shop work the same way But really thanks it has been along road but one anyone can take. Just give it a shot and it will start getting easier.

Originally Posted by BlueJeep

What's the blue stuff on the door?

Do you dolly after each tack, or after a series? Is the procedure with the TIG similar to that of the MIG? I also have a TIG that I've only played with a little bit, practice pieces and a few tube adapters. I want to get good with it, but can't seem to find the time to practice.

The blue stuff is a machinist dye used for doing layout on steel. It is super thin almost like a stain and not a paint. I then take a body file and go over the area to knock down any hi spots then I run a long board with 80 grit over the area to see were things are. Then I know what to do from their to get the best metal finish that I can do at this point in time because it is a new process for me.

Tig is far superior to Mig for doing body work because the welds are softer and they can be worked with a hammer and dolly much better then Mig can. Also a proper Tig weld is much flatter then Mig and this means less grinding to get it flat and that means less heat and less work hardening. As far as do I hammer and dolly each tack or after a few it just depends on what it is that I am doing.

Kevin
LFD Inc.


Well it is really starting to take shape now. I started and finished the upper rail tonight and started tacking the door together. I still have allot of work to do before it is finished but I can sure see the light now.



I used shims for spacers to keep the gap even.



More Tig welds.

[Rokcrln]

So for the upper rail I took two Burb door rails and welded them together. The front section is the rear of a passenger front door and it lined up great. Then the rear of this rail is the rear of a driver side rail and I had to slice the lower section that tucks into the door to get some angle on it so it would slide into the new door. Then the upper corner I just cut halfway through it on the top and bottom so it would bend to the correct angle for the opening.
Then I double checked the fit with it in the door for the first time.



Made sure everything cleared when open and shut.



I had to extend part of the lower rear rail so it tucks inside the door. It was about a 1/2" to short once I leaned it forward it had to grow just a bit.



Once I was sure it all worked I pulled it apart and prepped any area that I could not get to later or that was sandwiched against another layer. I used a anti rust primmer that is also a weld through product.







All back together with the upper rail tacked in place until the rest of the door is finished up just in case it needs some adjusting.










Now I need to finish up the hinge side of the door just so it looks finished and like the passenger side. Then I will cut out the inner door panel area and weld in the stock Burb inner panel so I have the window regulator and vent post mounting area. Then I will make the new lock rods and pivot mounts. Once the window rolls up smooth I will be converting it to power windows but figured this is the bast way to get their.

Kevin
LFD Inc.