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#1 |
Restoring it $200 at a time...
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: NE Kansas
Posts: 886
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Help! No start/electrical
Headed to work this AM and got absolutely nothing when I went to start the truck. I notice that the temp gauge pegs when the ignition is in Run/Start.
Since they're in the same loom, my guess is that starter wiring is shorting to the block through the temp sender. Before I spend the morning on a damp driveway, am I on the right track? Thanks, guys.
__________________
Charter member of the 'Put the dimmer switch back on the damn floor where it belongs' Society '68 5.3L-4 speed LWB C20; grandpa bought it for the farm in '71. Now LS 5.3, rather than 327. DD '09 Pilot Weekender '65 Skylark 300-4V-4 speed Wife's '07 Lexus ES350; 117 actuator motors and I can't see the engine. Son's '04 F250 SuperCab 6.0 |
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#2 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
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Re: Help! No start/electrical
did you check to see if it needed a jump?
try wiggling the wires on the back side of the ignition switch? The temp guage works on ground, not on positive, and they aren't in the same leg of the harness, and oposing sides of the engine. |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: daytonabeach
Posts: 22,956
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Re: Help! No start/electrical
neutral safty switch
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71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY |
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#4 |
Restoring it $200 at a time...
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: NE Kansas
Posts: 886
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Re: Help! No start/electrical
It cranked strong once, then went to nothing. No dragging, and it wasn't bitterly cold this AM. The green wire from the temp sender runs into a loom that goes across the back of the motor. That's what makes me think the 12ppl to the starter and the 20dg from the sender are crossed. The starter has its own line to the battery, so the fusible link doesn't come into play, right? No effect after wiggling wires under the dash. Cursing didn't help, either. [QUOTE neutral safety switch [/QUOTE] Granny 4-spd. When the temp gauge pegs, isn't it getting voltage from an ignition hot source?
__________________
Charter member of the 'Put the dimmer switch back on the damn floor where it belongs' Society '68 5.3L-4 speed LWB C20; grandpa bought it for the farm in '71. Now LS 5.3, rather than 327. DD '09 Pilot Weekender '65 Skylark 300-4V-4 speed Wife's '07 Lexus ES350; 117 actuator motors and I can't see the engine. Son's '04 F250 SuperCab 6.0 Last edited by hounddogs!; 12-19-2008 at 09:15 PM. |
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#5 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
|
Re: Help! No start/electrical
everything is covered under the fuseable link, except the large battery cable. (assuming it is wired properly, and there is nothing run straight to the battery, or the starter end of the positive cable)
I still think you are probably thinking too hard on this. Start with the basics. Check connections, check the charge, check the back of the switch, check the wores on the starter, check for power on the purple wire on the starter... Plus, like I mentioned, the fact that the green wire to the sensor is basicly a ground, and the purple wire is positive (when key is in the crank position) there woulda been a lotta smoke, or a popped fuseable link. Do you have power to ANYTHING now? |
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#6 |
Restoring it $200 at a time...
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: NE Kansas
Posts: 886
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Re: Help! No start/electrical
LHM: back to basics. Thanks for the reminder.
No electrical functions-- Starter dead Lights dead Wipers dead Brake lights dead Hazards dead This tells me fusible link or fuse. More investigation when it's light. Thanks.
__________________
Charter member of the 'Put the dimmer switch back on the damn floor where it belongs' Society '68 5.3L-4 speed LWB C20; grandpa bought it for the farm in '71. Now LS 5.3, rather than 327. DD '09 Pilot Weekender '65 Skylark 300-4V-4 speed Wife's '07 Lexus ES350; 117 actuator motors and I can't see the engine. Son's '04 F250 SuperCab 6.0 |
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#7 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
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Re: Help! No start/electrical
don't overlook loose connections... or dirty connections.
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#8 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
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Re: Help! No start/electrical
Since you have no headlights, skip the ignition switch idea all together.
Go out there, pop the hood, and see if you can wiggle the battery cables on the battery... try to rotate them on the posts. Then see if you have power. |
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#9 |
Dave's not here, man
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Winder, Georgia
Posts: 2,000
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Re: Help! No start/electrical
I'm thinking neutral safety switch too. Mine did exactly the same thing and it took me forever to figure out what was wrong.
*EDIT* I guess if that's what it was his headlights would work, huh? Nevermind ![]()
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- 2014 VW Jetta - 2015 VW Jetta - 1966 Ford F-250 Last edited by dave2953; 12-19-2008 at 09:48 PM. |
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#10 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
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Re: Help! No start/electrical
dave... it's also a 4 speed... no NSS
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#11 |
Restoring it $200 at a time...
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: NE Kansas
Posts: 886
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Re: Help! No start/electrical
Did check that one this morning, both terminals are tight.
__________________
Charter member of the 'Put the dimmer switch back on the damn floor where it belongs' Society '68 5.3L-4 speed LWB C20; grandpa bought it for the farm in '71. Now LS 5.3, rather than 327. DD '09 Pilot Weekender '65 Skylark 300-4V-4 speed Wife's '07 Lexus ES350; 117 actuator motors and I can't see the engine. Son's '04 F250 SuperCab 6.0 |
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#12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: LOS ANGELES, CA
Posts: 1
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Re: Help! No start/electrical
i had a problem where the positive wire from the battery had worked lose from the starter solenoid and it would act as if the batter was dead
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#13 |
Restoring it $200 at a time...
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: NE Kansas
Posts: 886
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Re: Help! No start/electrical
OK gents, more information......
**Cleaned both battery terminals, they're tight. **From the terminal block on the pass fender, I have continuity back to the firewall connector along the 12 ga red wire. **That same spade in the connector shows voltage to ground **All fuses are good Now for the bad stuff inside the cab. The temp needle moves when you step on the brake, turn the ignition to start/run or pull the headlight switch. Santa's bringing me a new printed circuit for the cluster. Maybe that'll fix all this. For now, I've got flurries and a wind chill of 5 below. I'm going in to watch basketball.
__________________
Charter member of the 'Put the dimmer switch back on the damn floor where it belongs' Society '68 5.3L-4 speed LWB C20; grandpa bought it for the farm in '71. Now LS 5.3, rather than 327. DD '09 Pilot Weekender '65 Skylark 300-4V-4 speed Wife's '07 Lexus ES350; 117 actuator motors and I can't see the engine. Son's '04 F250 SuperCab 6.0 |
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