Cold Blooded

[AK72K10]

My 72 is my daily driver, it runs like a top (Normally), the rig has been gapped, timed & tuned (New plugs/wires/cap/condenser/coil/points/ect.) with a recent oil change (10W30), my MPG is right around 13 (Average) and the rig is garage kept. Recently we have experienced a 2 week span where the temperature has been anywhere from -5 to -30 degrees F, my truck starts fine & runs well initially, the heater functions as well as can be expected, warms the cab (New water pump/heater core/hoses/clamps/thermostat), and the radiator has been flushed with new fluid mixture added. My commute is approx 27 miles, after about 20 miles I have a stop light, and once I get there my truck idles down it will die. It never does that when the temperature is above zero and when I adjust the manual choke it only prolongs the inevitable sputtering death. It is 10x as bad after sitting in the parking lot at my work for 8 hours. I need some guidance here guys (Leaving the state and heading to a warmer climate is not an option, this is my only transpo and I cannot rideshare), any suggestions?
AK
______________________________
1972 K10 Custom Deluxe 350/350
2008 Suburban LTZ White Diamond
1972 F100 302

"Why Build It If You Can't Drive It?"

[Sport/Truck]

Are you running a stove-pipe set up? (the heat sheild that brings up hot air into your air cleaner)
s/t

[ND_guy]

It sounds like you could be getting carb icing causing a restriction in the idle circuit. Does your pickup still have the inlet heater that warms the air entering the carb using the exhaust manifold? Do you have a working heat crossover system. They would warm the carb to prevent icing.

Carb icing generally only occurs between 15 degrees and 50degrees outside air temp but if the dewpoint is close to the actual temp icing in your situation could occur.

Just a thought.

[AK72K10]

"Are you running a stove-pipe set up? (the heat sheild that brings up hot air into your air cleaner)"_________________________________________________________________
Not sure about the stove-pipe set up, I am running a 14" aftermarket air cleaner sitting on an aftermarket 600CFM Carb, what do I need to look for here? _________________________________________________________________
"It sounds like you could be getting carb icing causing a restriction in the idle circuit. Does your pickup still have the inlet heater that warms the air entering the carb using the exhaust manifold? Do you have a working heat crossover system. They would warm the carb to prevent icing.

Carb icing generally only occurs between 15 degrees and 50degrees outside air temp but if the dewpoint is close to the actual temp icing in your situation could occur."_________________________________________________________________

Sounds like you guys might be hinting at the same thing, I believe the carb may just be icing up, the temp outside is so cold that I figured it to be to dry out for this to happen but maybe I need to look into it a bit more. Any pics on the "stove-pipe" set up or the "inlet heater"?
AK
______________________________
1972 K10 Custom Deluxe 350/350
2008 Suburban LTZ White Diamond
1972 F100 302

"Why Build It If You Can't Drive It?"

[ND_guy]

If you have an aftermarket cleaner you don't have the stove set up. The stove is a pipe that ducts heated air from around the exhaust manifold to the air cleaner assembly. It aids in faster warm up and prevents icing.

[AK72K10]

ND_guy are there any aftermarket air cleaners that would allow for stove set up? Should I look for an original cleaner or an OEM cleaner for winter use?

One other thing, the manifold is an aftermarket Edelbrock, I believe it is aluminum and not cast, if this is dissipating heat too fast could this also be contributing to the carb icing?
AK
______________________________
1972 K10 Custom Deluxe 350/350
2008 Suburban LTZ White Diamond
1972 F100 302

"Why Build It If You Can't Drive It?"

[68350]

My 68 I drove to high school did it too when it was really cold in the morning. When it did it at stops, I just gave it some light gas and kept my foot on the brake. Other than that, it ran fine, so I never did anything about it.
The oem air cleaners are the only ones that will probably accept the heat stove. They are fairly easy to come by for small blocks, so it shouldn't cost too much money.

[AK72K10]

Thanks 68350, after work tonight I will nurse my 72 over to my favorite parts store and see about picking up an oem cleaner. Only other problem I might encounter is the exhaust manifold and hose that leads up to the cleaner, I think the manifold has been replaced and the hose...well there isn't a hose. The P/O went through this truck in the 80's and restored it, and while that's the only reason it is still pretty much rust free, it is also the reason why it is not completely stock and I am encountering some of these other issues. I appreciate all your help, does not surprise me ND would come through concerning a cold weather question, I grew up in WI & MN (currently living in AK) and understand what you guys live with on a daily basis. Thanks again!
AK
______________________________
1972 K10 Custom Deluxe 350/350
2008 Suburban LTZ White Diamond
1972 F100 302

"Why Build It If You Can't Drive It?"