2 piece drive shaft help!!!!

[custom72c20]

Im currently swapping a 454 big block and turbo 400 trans into my 72 c20. All i have planned to do is put big block frame towers , cut factory trans mount off of the frame, and then position and bolt the new tranny crossmember on. Sorry for the run on sentence, but is there any way i could run a 1 piece driveshaft instead of a 2 piece?

I was wondering if I would :
- not be able to run due to it maybe hitting the trailing arm crossmember (even though my truck has leaf springs.)
- be able to just shorten the drive shaft and run CPP's heavy duty carrier bearing.

The motor going in has about 550 horsepower and Im also running a 3,500 stall converter.


I don't know which way would be easier, cheaper, or the best bang for the buck.


CAN YOU PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!!!!!!

[custom72c20]

Here's a link to CPP's Carrier Bearing. Its the billet one in the picture. All help is appreciated. Thanks

http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...ruck/CPSSD.htm

[custom72c20]

anyone?

[djracer]

I don't have any experience with long beds. 71 drag truck should be able to help.

[custom72c20]

Originally Posted by djracer

I don't have any experience with long beds. 71 drag truck should be able to help.

ok thanks. Hopefully he will chime in.

[djracer]

Pm him or Big jim if you don't get a response.

[nxtruck]

I swapped from a 2-piece shaft to a 1-piece shaft without any trouble. My 1-piece shaft is 3 1/2" in dia. and had plenty of room going through the crossmember. If everything is positioned anywhere close to stock, you shouldn't have any fitment problems, as far as room for a 1-piece shaft goes.

[bigjimzlll]

With my LWB truck I went to a 1 piece for a while. I moved the engine back as far as possible and used a long tail shaft th400. I had the shaft made from 3.5" .120 DOM tubing. .It worked ok until I started going fast. It started to "whip". I'm using a 2 piece now. I'm using a shaft made like monster trucks.

[custom72c20]

Originally Posted by bigjimzlll

With my LWB truck I went to a 1 piece for a while. I moved the engine back as far as possible and used a long tail shaft th400. I had the shaft made from 3.5" .120 DOM tubing. .It worked ok until I started going fast. It started to "whip". I'm using a 2 piece now. I'm using a shaft made like monster trucks.

Can you explain what you mean by "whip"? Would you recommend running a two piece or one piece driveshaft with my 500 horse big block. I just don't want to break anything. Thanks for the input.

[LuckyHenriksen]

I also have these same questions, glad someone is answering! Is that CPP carrier bearing a good idea?

[bigjimzlll]

If your DS isn't turning 6500 rpm you should be fine with a one piece. When you go longer the shaft has more chance of becoming unstable. If you have a 1/2" wood dowel that's 1 foot long it's difficult to bend, but if it's 2' it bends easier.
I thought my one piece was fine until I noticed scarring on the shaft and rubbed areas where it went through the rear cross member.
It's all about the critical RPM the SHAFT sees. Your engine will see 6500+rpm but the shaft doesnt...unless your running 130+mph

[custom72c20]

Originally Posted by bigjimzlll

If your DS isn't turning 6500 rpm you should be fine with a one piece. When you go longer the shaft has more chance of becoming unstable. If you have a 1/2" wood dowel that's 1 foot long it's difficult to bend, but if it's 2' it bends easier.
I thought my one piece was fine until I noticed scarring on the shaft and rubbed areas where it went through the rear cross member.
It's all about the critical RPM the SHAFT sees. Your engine will see 6500+rpm but the shaft doesnt...unless your running 130+mph

Thank you for the info. I'll probably just go with the one piece the motor redlines at around 6,300 so it should be fine. I hope.

[LuckyHenriksen]

I have a stock 2 piece shaft, and plan to throw some good power at it. Any advice on semi-cheap upgrades that will keep it together?

[custom72c20]

Originally Posted by LuckyHenriksen

I have a stock 2 piece shaft, and plan to throw some good power at it. Any advice on semi-cheap upgrades that will keep it together?

I think that CPP carrier bearing would be a good purchase for you IMO. It looks pretty stout and is cheaper than having a new driveshaft made.

[Lx3]

Try a search for Inland Empire Driveline. They have some good stuff.

[meansting04]

Originally Posted by Lx3

Try a search for Inland Empire Driveline. They have some good stuff.

Plus one used it on my 2004 GTO. Worked great. A little priceeee. Well worh it.

[custom72c20]

Originally Posted by Lx3

Try a search for Inland Empire Driveline. They have some good stuff.

Im going to get a driveshaft from them. Cool thing is that they're only 45 min from my house.

[meansting04]

good. You will be glad you went with a well know name. I loved mine. Worth the $$.

[Lionc68c10]

Originally Posted by bigjimzlll

With my LWB truck I went to a 1 piece for a while. I moved the engine back as far as possible and used a long tail shaft th400. I had the shaft made from 3.5" .120 DOM tubing. .It worked ok until I started going fast. It started to "whip". I'm using a 2 piece now. I'm using a shaft made like monster trucks.

good idea

[kcjones]

There's a great driveshaft shop near where I live, Driveline Service of Santa Rosa (I think they're in Fresno and Sac, too), and they recommended I stay with my 2 piece, low power motor or high, reason just as BigJim said - the longer the shaft, the more vibration and tiny imbalances affect the shaft. Even at low rpm with a near perfect balance, every drive shaft is sending some rotation torsion through the ujoints. Because it is relatively minimal, the ujoints, yoke, and center bearing will absorb this vibration and you drive on down the road. But, double the length of that shaft, and the forces at work, even with that near perfect balance, will apply double the power of those same forces. So, instead of good ujoints under 400+HP at 100MPH for many thousands of miles, you have many fewer miles under those circumstances but with a longer shaft, even if the diameter is larger.

SWB and 3 or 3.5" shaft, no problem. Our LWB's require a 72"+ shaft with short tail TH400 and stock motor position.

Another factory is the weight of the shaft - longer shafts must have larger diameters to correctly spread the force of power being applied, and hence, are heavier. The heavier the shaft, the more engine power absorbed and the more rotational torsion applied.

2 piece and billet carrier are a good bet for a LWB.