Texas is HOT! How did you get your A/C to work?

[Critter]

Well...Texas will be hot in another month or two at least. I have seen a lot of posts on this site where people have returned their A/C to working order, but there seams to be more than one way to skin a cat. Everything from full kits from aftermarket companies, factory style replacement parts, GM updated parts, etc. I would eventually like to get mine going but I have to admit it is pretty far down on the list of things to do. My question is this, how did “you” get you’re A/C back to work? Personally I would like to use as much of my factory system as possible. I am not opposed to getting a different style compressor (sanden) and maybe updating the dryer/expansion valve type parts with new style GM parts, say, from the 73-87 generation. What is everyone else’s opinion? Pics are appreciated of course.

[primered_junk]

All factory stuff, with a toggle switch on the compressor, it's ghetto but got me thru the summer.

[JimKshortstep4x4]

Do you have the Service Manual for your truck? The section on AC's is pretty comprehensive!

Jim

[cparman]

I am in Florida, and my Blazer is factory air ( not working ) My opinion of the factory units is that they work well, but do not blow as hard as the aftermarket units. We have done several aftermarket installs in F&*(s and Chevys, and the company I use is Classic auto air. Their kits fit well, GREAT instructions, R134 that will keep up with Florida heat and humidity. My long term plan for the Blazer is to use one of their kits. They take up less space inside and out. If you go to their site you can download their instructions and see what you get for $1100.

[big_al_71]

Same here I am in florida and went with the unit from classic auto air and it works awesome. I think it was alot easier for us to go with that unit rather than trying to find all the parts for a factory unit.

[Andy4639]

If you have all the factory stuff then it may pay you to stick with that setup, if not a aftermarket might be best. I would go the 134-A route no matter what since you can buy it about any place in the USA.

[Critter]

Thanks guys, I forgot to mention that I would definitly be using R134a one way or the other. I have heard of some guys using newer style GM parts to replace the expansion valve and evaporator (among other things). Anybody ever done that?

[stope4]

to use 134a, need to flush system, change oil to 134a compatible oil, change dryer, get a new condensor made for 134a not r12 (has more tubes but are smaller od and will cool while idling), adjust poa valve to a lower pressure. ACkits.com has some good info.

[Critter]

Originally Posted by stope4

to use 134a, need to flush system, change oil to 134a compatible oil, change dryer, get a new condensor made for 134a not r12 (has more tubes but are smaller od and will cool while idling), adjust poa valve to a lower pressure. ACkits.com has some good info.

I'm good with all that, just unclear on one thing. Change the dryer to what??? A different part number all together, or just a stock 1972 replacment that has never had R12 run through it?

[stope4]

Call Old Air in Dallas or Classic Auto Air in Florida. They have the dryer you need.

[oldsmobilekindofguy]

move here to south dakota and don't worry about it

[Critter]

Originally Posted by oldsmobilekindofguy

move here to south dakota and don't worry about it

Yeah, but at this point my heater isn't working either so I would still be in trouble.

[Andy4639]

Here is my story. It has been in the truck now for about 10 years maybe more. I went to a junk yard and found all the stuff out of a 78 truck I believe. I swaped over to 134-A awhile back after I bought some new components. Evaperator,condensor, compressor, acumalator, new hoses everything was bought from classic auto air. I had used the old A-6 compressors for a long time and just got tired of buying them. The seals would dry out over the winter and they would leak out the freeon.
Anyway here is the new stuff installed.
When you swap the 78 stuff out in the box you will find it's a little smaller than the factory part, I used spray foam to fill the gaps and just closed it up for the night to setup then openen it the next day and cut out anything in the way.
You want to make sure the air goes through the evaperator and not around it.The acumaltor does away with the drier that mounts up on the radiator support.

[cparman]

old air products sells an evap,accumulator and orifice tube that would convert what you have to a CCOT style system. The old A-6 compressors are not a clutch cycling kind of unit and have heard that going this way is hard on the compressors?

[Gray Ghost]

The best deal in Texas is at Lucky's in Ennis, Texas. His most expensive kit is $675 for heat, AC and defrost and it can run in stock or drilled vents rather than underdash. he also has kits starting at $525. I am pretty sure he uses Sanden compressors.