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#1 |
Andy
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Cleveland, GA
Posts: 224
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Rear Brakes?
Hello all. I am new to this forum. I have had my 69 CST/10 for years, but I have just started working on it. It is a short wheel base truck, 350, turbo 350, 12 bolt, with manual drum brakes. I redone the front brakes on the truck this past weekend and all went well. I replaced the shoes, hoses, wheel cylinders and all the hardware inside except for the adjusters. Now my question is, how do you get the drums off the bacK???? I couldn't get them off for anything. I sprayed pb blaster on the axle flange where it slips through the drum, let it sit, wire brushed the area to remove as much rust as possible, took a big socket and placed it over each stud and hit it with a 3 lb mallet, then tapped the outer edge of the drum repeatedly to no avail. The drum would not budge.(the brakes are not frozen to the drum. I can turn the rear wheels easily) This isn't a setup that you have to remove the c-clip in the axle and pull the entire assembly out just to get the drum off, is it? I've done brakes on my one ton dodge truck, but it has a dana 70, and all i had to do on it was unbolt the axle, slip it out, and the drum slid right off. The axle in this truck isn't made that way, so I don't know what to do. I'm scared to hit the drums too hard because I don't want to bust them. Advice?
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1967 Camaro SS 406|522hp/514ft lbs|M20 Muncie|3.73s|Posi 1969 CST/10 383|Aisin AR5 5 speed 1972 K5 350|Turbo 350 4x4 2005 Duramax 2500HD 4x4 Last edited by 67ss&99ss; 02-17-2009 at 02:36 PM. |
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#2 |
Active Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Centrally located between Houston, Austin and Waco. BCS area.
Posts: 7,947
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Re: Rear Brakes?
First make sure that the adjuster is all the way in.
Soak the axle where the drum meets it with the PB blaster if you haven't already. Wipe it dry and with a propane torch carefully heat the drum around the axle hole. This will expand it and let you remove it. I've used a large pry bar on mine and carefully pry all around the drum while tapping the sides until it breaks free. Sometimes you need heat, though. |
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#3 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
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Re: Rear Brakes?
Just smack it real hard on the parimeter of the drum. If it gets damaged, then it needed replaced anyways.
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#4 | |
Active Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Centrally located between Houston, Austin and Waco. BCS area.
Posts: 7,947
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Re: Rear Brakes?
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#5 |
Andy
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Cleveland, GA
Posts: 224
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Re: Rear Brakes?
I was hitting it with a three pound hammer, lol. That was after I let the PB blaster soak i for 20 mins. I just know how expensive drums are, and I don't want to replace it if I don't have to. I guess I'll try the heat method this weekend. I had my torch out there, but I was hoping I could get it off without it.
__________________
1967 Camaro SS 406|522hp/514ft lbs|M20 Muncie|3.73s|Posi 1969 CST/10 383|Aisin AR5 5 speed 1972 K5 350|Turbo 350 4x4 2005 Duramax 2500HD 4x4 Last edited by 67ss&99ss; 02-17-2009 at 08:49 PM. |
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#6 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
|
Re: Rear Brakes?
last time I got drums for my old 69 1/2 ton they were 25 bucks each.
I still prefer vintage ones in good shape though. However, if you can damage them with a hammer, then you don't want them stopping 4000 pounds of truck on the freeway. At least, if you can damage them with a hammer... then i don't want you following me anywhere. |
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